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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Head Gasket Leak Steps?

 
  #16  
Old 05-16-2019, 06:45 AM
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Can you change out the rest of the plugs?
If so and have done that do the rest of the tune up, wires, cap & rotor and see how it runs.
Once running get it up to normal temp and then try and see if it will come out.
You may need a little help on the ratchet by slipping a pipe on it make the handle longer to break it loose.
Dave - - - -
 
  #17  
Old 05-16-2019, 08:50 AM
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I keep a short piece of old copper water pipe in my carry tool box to slip on a 3/8" ratchet for leverage. I keep a 4 foot piece of old water pipe around to slip on a 1/2" to really get rough. Won't hurt to keep spraying with penetrating oil for several days prior to remove to take advantage of diurnal cycling in hopes it'll wick some deeper into threads? Sometimes I smack my ratchets with a hammer to bust things loose.
 
  #18  
Old 05-16-2019, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by 86ford1 View Post
1) Got the oil changed. There was no coolant in it. Just oil.

2) The truck had completely stopped starting prior to oil change. After oil change, it started right up with some carb cleaner spray in intake.
It had not been started in several months, so stalled several times. Would immediately restart with reapplication of carb spray.

3) Drove to the gas station and put some gas. Ran very rough and then almost smoothly if I manually put it in lower gear.
Please share any thoughts on what that means. As said, I have pretty limited experience, so not sure what it means concerning
possible head gasket blown if it seems to run fine in lower gears.

4) Also cannot understand the white smoke blowing. It blew a small amount after first starting and I observed what seemed to be
water in the exhaust pipe. Not green, not coolant. Then after the drive it completely stopped blowing white smoke. If it is the head gasket,
wouldn't the white smoke be consistently blowing?

Next step would be to empty coolant and try a snake oil (that I know is the least greatest thing but what I can do right now) IF IT IS STILL INDICATED that this is a head gasket with the new information:
*low gear running alright
*no coolant in the oil at all
*white smoke not blowing at all times

thanks very much.

If it was antifreeze the 'smoke' and water from your tailpipe would have a syrupy sweet smell to it.

Is it white or is it grey?
 
  #19  
Old 05-16-2019, 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by 86ford1 View Post
Thanks to Fuzzface for a simple thing to try before proceeding to testing, I got a set of plugs, wires, cap and rotor.

I am stuck with the first plug I tried to remove refusing to budge. It is the first one closest to the cab of truck, so awkwardish spot. I can get a grip on it, but it is not budging.
I don't want to break it in there.

Please any suggestions for removing super stuck spark plug? wd40? If I can get the plugs changed, then i can move to checking the gas. Thank you. Very much.
Min was rough too, especially with the AC in the way. If you have a big enough wrench you can slide it over the ratchet for more leverage, that's how I had to break loose a couple myself without a breaker bar handy.
 
  #20  
Old 05-20-2019, 12:55 AM
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Spark Plug STill stuck - what to do

After 3 days and 2 nights soaking in PB Blaster, the plug still will not budge. I read to put a small piece of rag around the plug and saturate with the oil to keep it in contact and have had it like that.I have tried it periodically throughout the day and then resprayed and there has been no movement EXCEPT for part of the porcelain on the plug breaking :(

The 13/16" socket I was using did not have the spark plug insert, so it must have wobbled with the extension on on one of the tries. All the little pieces are out after being washed away by numerous PB sprays and socket still grips plug, so have kept trying. Went to O'Reilly today and purchased a new 13/16" spark plug socket, so I don't have to worry about wobble when pushing at it. Still nothing.

I am not sure what to try now. I was able to get the other 5 changed and the new cap and rotor on. I can't run it now though with the porcelain broken on the last plug. I do not have a piece of copper pipe, so would need to see about gettin a piece. I am worried now with it part broken about breaking it more. Am trying to keep it as stable as I can when wrenching at it. I saw a $18 breaker bar at O'Reilly when I got the $7 socket. I don't know if that would make a difference or not. Or just keep spraying and trying. It's soaking again tonight for another try in the morning. Just updating and seeing if any other suggestions with porcelain part broken not to get it off......Thank you all so very much....it may sound dumb to some, but the help here makes me know there are some good people on this earth.

P.S. Odisvan- will look at the smoke closer when the plug is out and I can run it. In my memory, the liquid was not syrupy sweet. Seemed like just plain water. Smoke color seems white in memory. A few of the times it was the huge, ongoing, billowing cloud of smoke seen smoking out an intersection or following a car down the road.
 
  #21  
Old 05-20-2019, 01:45 AM
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Do you have an air compressor, or access to one? A pneumatic impact gun should make quick work of the problem.

If access is limited, here is your answer:


https://www.harborfreight.com/air-to...nch-68426.html


This is not to be confused with an ordinary air ratchet. This is basically a 90 degree impact gun. I have one and it is phenomenal in use. The only downside is you'll need to wear a paper bag over your head so nobody sees you shopping at HF.
 
  #22  
Old 05-20-2019, 07:31 AM
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If you have a hammer, you can beat on your ratchet to loosen if you're a bonafide hillbilly like I am. I won't hesitate to smack the hell out of a ratchet handle with a 4 pound hammer, that will work like an impact, shocking it hard. the longer the leverage you can get on it, the more torque you can generate to bust it loose. But, like with any ratchet, you have to (at least I do), keep one hand up near the head and extension to make damn sure you're going on straight. That's why your porcelain likely broke, if you angle any. Keep it straight in proportion to whatever you're removing. I can't recall if you're using 3/8 or 1/2 ratchet, go as large as you can, and if needed buy an conversion to plug a 3/8" socket on a 1/2" drive ratchet.
 
  #23  
Old 05-20-2019, 07:54 PM
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Plug out! Started with spray, idles fine- cuts off as soon as in reverse

Temp dropped to 58 last night, so maybe the swing in the diurnal cycling helped. Got a longer piece of copper pipe that could fit the space to give it a try. And, lo, it broke loose. Took a pause to appreciate that before proceeding to see if any improvements from the tune up effort. Installed new. Still required carb cleaner spray to start, but seemed to start right up with it. Pressed at the gas to keep it idling a good while until it was fine idling on it's own. Tried to put in Reverse to go down the road and it cut off every time. Would not stay running when I put it in gear after several tries. Smoke was more than ever during the idling. Brought the neighbors out to see what that smell was and the cloud. It looked white to me. My son said it looked white with bluish in it to him. I asked if he thought it smelled sweet- he said it smelled like barbecue. Not sure if that is sweet or not. Last time I got it started the smoke cleared after driving to gas station. On only idling in driveway, constant, big cloud on this effort.

I also put a small amount of Seafoam in the gas tank (maybe an ounce) to see if it may help the gas in there. As said, only able to idle in driveway so far. Was running low on carb spray to keep starting again, so had to stop work for the day until I go get a new can to spray and start however many times needed to get out of driveway and see what happens on the road a few blocks. Glad plug out and will proceed with road test as soon as I get spray.

Also, the Oil Pressure gauge read almost to H during idle if any ithoughts on that. Prior to this issue though, this gauge had been inconsistent. Sometimes right at normal, other times an L, other times towards the H. Truck was running fine, so did not seem to require attention. Thought maybe gauge not working properly since whatever it was pointing at, truck was running fine then.
 
  #24  
Old 05-20-2019, 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by 86ford1 View Post
Temp dropped to 58 last night, so maybe the swing in the diurnal cycling helped. Got a longer piece of copper pipe that could fit the space to give it a try. And, lo, it broke loose. Took a pause to appreciate that before proceeding to see if any improvements from the tune up effort. Installed new. Still required carb cleaner spray to start, but seemed to start right up with it. Pressed at the gas to keep it idling a good while until it was fine idling on it's own. Tried to put in Reverse to go down the road and it cut off every time. Would not stay running when I put it in gear after several tries. Smoke was more than ever during the idling. Brought the neighbors out to see what that smell was and the cloud. It looked white to me. My son said it looked white with bluish in it to him. I asked if he thought it smelled sweet- he said it smelled like barbecue. Not sure if that is sweet or not. Last time I got it started the smoke cleared after driving to gas station. On only idling in driveway, constant, big cloud on this effort.

I also put a small amount of Seafoam in the gas tank (maybe an ounce) to see if it may help the gas in there. As said, only able to idle in driveway so far. Was running low on carb spray to keep starting again, so had to stop work for the day until I go get a new can to spray and start however many times needed to get out of driveway and see what happens on the road a few blocks. Glad plug out and will proceed with road test as soon as I get spray.

Also, the Oil Pressure gauge read almost to H during idle if any ithoughts on that. Prior to this issue though, this gauge had been inconsistent. Sometimes right at normal, other times an L, other times towards the H. Truck was running fine, so did not seem to require attention. Thought maybe gauge not working properly since whatever it was pointing at, truck was running fine then.
It's been my experience with these older Ford oil pressure gauges to register correctly at colder engine temperatures and as the engine warms up the sending units must have what's called a "temperature window" where once above that temperature they become unreliable and more often than not read low with a warmed engine. However sometimes when on the highway turning high rpms the oil pressure returns to a normal reading. It's intermittent. I trust my gauge when the engine is cold to warming up. After that I don't pay much attention to it.

BB2
 
  #25  
Old Yesterday, 01:41 PM
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At this point, I'd suggest checking on Amazon or eBay for "Magic Engine Pills". Never used them myself, but supposedly you drop one of these magic pills in the gas tank and it fixes ANY and ALL engine problems without the need for any diagnosis whatsoever. These pills sound like an incredible time saver.

Or you can see this previous message:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post18629308


Your call.
 
  #26  
Old Yesterday, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by 86ford1 View Post
Thanks all much for the perspectives and links. Weather got cold here for a while and decided to just let things be. It's warming up some and getting some work going in one direction or another on it is on the horizon now.

If I go with trying the stop leak, it sounds like the order of operations will be:
1) change the oil. see what comes out. (coolant water first then oil? also check dipstick prior to see if shiny.)
2) drain coolant and refill.
3) put in the stop leak

I didn't see if anyone could testify to having used a particular brand and having had it work good enough for a while?
If I do need to try it temporary, I just wondered what brand may have been vetted.

Correct, money is factor as well as very limited experience, so though freshen rings and bearings sounds like a good plan also sounds
pretty big job from this end. If I do run into a glitch, will be stuck. Hence giving the stop leak thought. Will see what I see with the oil change. I have had some vehicles act like they are doing a big break down and then return to running proper....Had a toyota blowing white smoke, thought head gasket gone and then the smoke just stopped and it ran fine for several years. Mystery.

thanks again for sharing what you know for good here. will post next steps when i have them.
roadkill just did a episode on a car they used the head gasket stuff in, and it fixed it, cant remember the brand tho. go to motortrend and watch the video of a camero with a 350
 

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