The boost issue-
Once you get the leaks repaired, it would be good to use an app to start reading sensor outputs.
You will want to see things like vgt%, ebp value, perhaps the turbo veins are sticking?

 

Hopefully when he takes it to the shop, his friend will run a scan on it. If not, then I guess I'll have to. If I do, I'll post on another thread for help
I didn't specifically look at the turbo, but the friend where we were using his lift, did say that he saw the turbo spinning. Stepson did buy turbo cleaner. I just texted to ask if he's used it yet.

 

Of course, unless I'm holding his hand he doesn't do anything.

 

You may want to keep it in this threas that way the history is easy to get at for someone that is helping over the internet..

Just a thought.

When you say turbo cleaner What do you mean? The only thing you really need is the 3M 1" Scotch-Brite twist lock disc.
Just be very careful around the posts. The disk can grab and break a post off. Then you out looking for a housing.
Not a low cost issue if that happens.

 

Turbo cleaning is really a disassembly and scrapping away accumulating soot, carbon. I have not heard of a turbo cleaner itself. Something else you can research, several videos on the topic.

 

Ford has/had a little kit. I think it was just the 3M disk kit and the turbo install gasket set and bolts.

 

I think he's talking Turbo Cleaner in a can, think Seafoam but there a bunch of others out there... I doubt the kid would even consider pulling the turbo and cleaning it as: "buying a turbo cleaner". Just based on what I'm reading here guys...

 

Well if that is what it is take it back of toss in the trash where he can't find.

 

This is exactly what I'm talking about. So, to clean it, it needs to be taken back out I'll leave that up to him

 

Good point Yahiko. I'll keep it here.

 

Update...………...there is no update. Had issue with the hose coming off on the bottom of the coolant bottle several times. Finally told stepson to replace the clamp. Seem to take care of it. Had him take it to shop Monday night and drop it off for 8 am appointment. They didn't get it up on lift until 1:30. Long story short, still not ready 48 hours after initial appointment. They were having pretty much same issues with the bolts that we had. So, I don't feel bad (at least not as bad) with all the hours we had in it getting passenger side off. A line from the manifold to the engine, the nut/fastener was so rusted it crumbled when they took it off. Will update later. I'll do a couple of pics of the rotor on the driver's side...…...scary

 

Update #2...……..changed rotors and calipers. Driving home, ready to turn into driveway, hear a big clunk. Roll into drive, he hits gas and nothing. Long story short...……..the f*(King transfer case broke!!!! So, now, still not having made his first payment on this POS, or have yet to put metal tags on, we have to change this!!

So, question. When shopping for a transfer case, what am I looking for to make sure I am getting the correct one? Is there a number I need to match up?

TIA

 

Man, I wonder if this was a flood vehicle.

 

Man those things normally don't break much IF AT ALL (I just rebuilt one but the knucklehead (young kid) was abusing it off road).......there are two numbers 271, 273 depending on electronic vice mechanical....................easy to rebuild and in all likelihood maybe just a $5 gear went south................teardown will show it immediately........I'd pull it, open it up, buy the (more than likely) single part or two...........if it's the planetary however, then junk it, get one used -- relatively inexpensive for the whole setup

 

I don't know that my knucklehead is off roading it. I'd try to rebuild, but the housing broke, so I don't think it's possible. I have found used for as low as $149 at pick and pull (but we'd have to go take it out ourselves.....what my knucklehead said) to a few hundred. I'll see about pulling it tonight and checking for the number and see if I can match it up.