Normally a bad u-joint will show up as a popping noise when putting into gear, changing directions, or shifting gears (manual trans) but it is sometimes difficult to find in at auto trans. 90% of the time, it is the joint at the pinion. You have to pull the driveshaft loose or jack up the wheel to find the looseness. If the needles are gone it can allow the driveshaft to flop and cause a vibration. If there is no "pop" when you take off, it does not mean the u-joint is good but it still leaves the possibilty for the problem to be the tires or driveline out of balance. Sounds work on frequency levels and so do vibrations. When it is specific to one speed range I suspect the out of balance problem. It is eay enough to check the u-joints though to verify if that is the problem or not. And while I said before that it is unlikely the trans is bad, I did not mean it wasn't possible. There are bearings esp. on input shaft that can cause similar problems but it is unlikely on this new truck and depends on the trans that he has.

 

You Guys are a Great Help!
aFORDaBULL the truck is only in the low 6000 miles!
Tim tire's are LT265/70R17, pressure is corect and no mud build up, ect ect!
I just called a driveline shop and they say driveline out of balance too with the way it is acting! I might have lost a weight and need to get under there today and see if one might be missing.
What i forgot to say the first time and what made me think maybe the tranny is sometimes it will feel like the parking break is on or in second gear, like costing down a hill it dosn't want to pick up speed in fact it will lose speed sometimes? any ideas about that one guys?
You guys are a great help and I'm glad I found this site, its realy a COOL ONE for sure!;-)
TED

 

I've had just a bolt go missing and cause a vibration (bolts holding the yoke , u-joint on). Tires should not be a problem at 6000. If you rotate front to back, there may show up if it is a balance problem with one tire or wheel but if that is the case I bet some tire wear will show up soon. You should have at least 7x17 wheels so oversize isn't applicable. Now the other symptoms, dragging/coasting etc. could be related or unrelated. Which trans do you have, I'd guess auto w/ 4R70W. If it is a manual or even an auto, it should not "coast" unless you clutch or shift to neutral. Autos have a lockup torque convertor controlled by the truck's computer management system. How does the truck act with the cruise on and going up or down a hill? Give us the engine size, trans (code from door if you don't know type), and also axle code and someone might help or understand these "other" symptoms.

 

Tim would the code for the trans off the door be TR with a U under it? Eng. 5.7 ...don't see were any weights have been put on or fallen offf of the driveline?
TED

 

Yes, TR for TRANS and U for 4R70W (small automatic). Engine would be L, R, W etc. for 5.4L V8, 4.6L V8, 4.2L V6 (no 5.7L is available). Weights are generally just round spots welded or pressed on from the factory, Check for 4 bolts at rear and trans yokes. Since you have this problem in 2WD, I'd concentrate on the back driveshaft only. If the transfer case is in 2 High or 2WD, the front driveshaft should not be moving (hubs locked out also). You can pull the u-joints and check each cup individually or the quick method is to jack up the rear tires and put truck in Neutral and spin the driveshaft by hand. Shake at each end and look for looseness or feel/listen for rough spots. It's probably just as quick to just check each cup and more accurate. I'd put a finger smearing of grease in each cup to hold the needles in and make sure they aren't dry. If the u-joint cross has not worn much yet (on the outer round edges) it won't move much. How does the front end feel when driving? If it responds good and tight, it is probably okay but if you have noticed truck pulling etc. this could be a loose wheel bearing. Have you done anything to this truck or had it done just prior to occurence of your problem? Pulled tires, rotated, engine, exhaust mods, etc. I'm thinking a wheel weight might have come off more so than the driveline.

 

Tim sorry about the typo i ment 5.4 eng. and the truck is still factory stock. I plan tommrow to put it in the shop at Ford and have them check all the U-joints as you say, the ford dealer here is real good at taking care of and checking out what ever i ask, on account they all know I can and do my own work and if they don't I will and then rub it in their face!;-) do you still think it could be a u-joint with it only doing it while giving it the gas or holding a steady speed with the gas at 40/45mph? As soon as uyou let off the gas at this speed it quits? I've had and changed many a u-joint in my time, but never had one act like this does!
Thank You again!
TED

 

U-joints normally show up when you stop and go or shift gears manually, or go forward to reverse. Now the out of balance theory fits for a specific speed but I don't think a u-joint has gone completely bad. I'm starting to worry about the torque convertor or transmission input shaft. Your PCM does lock/unlock the TC at certain intervals but I'm not a trans expert or any other for that matter. It could be something as simple as a 2-3 shift point or incomplete TC lock up. Ford tech should be more familiar with this than me. After the truck has completely warmed up by temp gauge and driving some, stop and sitting still shift through all gears and recheck your trans oil level. I doubt it is low but you never know. Suppose once in a thousand they (Ford) gets a bad bearing or bends a shaft installing a trans or building it. Sounds like the vibration is in a certain gear and engine rpm with a load on the input shaft by accelerating. I've read other threads discussing line pressures and shift points and add on chips but I know little about this. Nor am I familiar retrieving codes on the newer trucks. I'm beginning to understand why you thought it was the trans in the first place. I did have an AODE in a '95 F150 which is essentially the same trans but a different program/management system. Seriously, I don't think it is a u-joint. I am slightly more comfortable with manual trans. I'd talk to the dealer about bad TC, trans mount as somebody else mentioned or possibly it is something we have not mentioned yet. Surely you aren't the first and only person to have this problem. But not everyone reads these forums or frequently checks all threads. I sometimes go for months without looking and then different people are on board. Have you "searched" forums for 4R70W vibrations. The frontend/driveline info will be fairly generaric as I was. The trans forum may give more expertise but I get few responses there. I'll check back but I'm sorry I can't tell you anything specific or definite. My only truck in this series has the E4OD and I've had no problems so far. Good luck thru the holidays.

 

I did a search on 4R70W and "shudder". Several threads showed up and you can try the search yourself to get all the info but TC shudder was a problem in some 4R70W/AODE trans. So Ford went to the Mercon V for this trans and the new fluid supposedly helps. Somebody mentioned that the TC clutch (controlled electronically by pcm) never really locks up but continuously "slips" at differing rates. I don't really understand that but it could be useful later in solving your problem. We still can't be certain your problem is in the trans but given your symptoms, I would research the 4R70W TC lock up clutch shudder a bit further. If something else simpler shows up well that would be fortunate. I would think as new as your truck is, it would already have the Mercon V fluid from factory, unless someone has changed it. Now the older fluid type is probably not the beginning problem in these trans. I have not found out exactly what is "shuddering" and why. In another thread a TransGo shift kit solved his trouble but it had someone's name tied to it and was probably modified. I have a TransGo for the older AODE which is probably the same but I'd have to cross reference first. They were ~$120 in '96 but a few years ago could be bought for ~$60. Mine came with VCR tape. You just drop the pan (draining Fluid) and remove the valve body. Then you drill a new hole across to 2 passages and maybe enlarge another hole. Drill bits were included. Then going back up with the valve body, you install heavier springs (included also). Time consuming but not really complicated. Instructions were very thorough. I don't know if the fluid or shift kit will fix your problem though. I only added it so you would have alternatives to whatever somebody else might offer at higher prices. You are not completely broke down so gathering info on the problem and suspect is better than shooting parts and money into the dark. Still good luck.

One of the better search results: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...%25252Bshudder

 

Thank You
very Much TIM, I just got back from FORD after taking all the info you gave me and from your search too. in the morning their taking the truck in, and checking all the U-joints, valve body bolts, and draining the trans, and TC to put new mercon V fluid, just in case that isn't what was put in it in the first place at the factory. the trans man at ford said it looked like the right fluid but the color was a little off. A friend of mine just told me that he Lemon Law his 98 F-150 4X4 for the same thing. I hope I don't have to go that FAR! I also turned them on to this web sit, they all seem very interested in it. I want to "Thank You" again for all your help and effort in the matter, its realy Cool of You to go out of your way like this! I'll let you know the out come!;-)
Merry Christmas
TED

 

You're welcome. I just hope everything works out. I generally don't know the right answers (but sometimes think I do). My greatest achievements come from learning by my mistakes and learning where to look or who to ask for answers. This site helps me alot too. I can change parts fair enough once the problem is determined. I'm not very good at diagnostics though or I'd be a doc or vet.

 

Ha! Ha! me too! like my Dad use to say; 2 old. 2 soon. 2 smart. 2 late.
Merrry Christmas!
TED

 

I had a very similar problem with my 97 F150 with the 4.6, 4x4, Automatic Lariat. I think it was the Torque Converter (though I'm not exactly sure). They ended up rebuilding the transmission and I only had 500 miles left on the warranty...THANK GOD!!!

 

Just signed up because of this exact problem!!! Just bought my 2000 F-150 with 107,000 miles. Need to now if this is a problem or common with the E4OD auto tranny. Mine does this exact same thing, but only when it shifts into overdrive. Positive of this. Only have a few days left before I can pick up the crappy used warrenty. Also what is the difference between the E4OD and the 4R70W tranny?

 

This problem is specific to SOME 4R70W/AODE trans. I don't know of a similar problem in the E4OD but that does not mean there isn't one but at least not as often. Any torque convertor clutch problem can cause similar symptoms as can other related problems. The E4OD is a larger trans rated for higher torque than the 4R70W. E4OD is related to the old heavy duty C6 but has an overdrive. 4R70W has less torque rating (~300 ft/lbs I believe) and more similar to FMX and possibly C4. There have been several threads here concerning overdrive problems in some automatics but I don't remember any specifically for the E4OD but you can try a "Search" using a link in the upper right corner and type in "E4OD" space "overdrive" and other terms such as problem, shudder, slipping, or whatever your truck is doing. Be sure to go down the options and click for longer term searches such as prev. 6 mos. Another way is to start your own thread in your truck forum and/or the trans forum. Make sure you have a good headline such as E4OD overdrive problem. Then give description of your truck and past repairs, maintenance schedule and what you do with the truck (or plan to do). Describe the problem as best you can and ask specific questions if applicable. This will get your thread read by more people and receive more and better responses. Use them wisely as sometimes some of us are wrong or misled by data. Two way feedback is normally required to determine possible problems and solutions so check your e-mail often. With any transmission problem always check fluid level when warm after going through all gears. If the fluid has not been changed, I would change it and the filter. Many places back flush the trans now and don't drop the pan. It is quicker and cheaper for them labor wise but I prefer to do it myself and drop the pan. Sometimes you can see something that ain't quite right and help determine your problem. There is lots of information already in previous threads so searching forums lets you get familiar with similar problems/solutions/prices. New threads are specific to your truck (unless others jump in as you did here) and can reach many experienced people but you have to be patient, especially during holidays or vacation times. The trans forums can reach people who work on trans but will have less traffic than the truck forums. Good luck.

 

Thanks Tim. Still trying to find my way around. All these forums are awesome. This info will really help. Going to do a fluid/filter change this weekend (i hope).