i will just need to know how

 

turbo is prolbely ur best bet

 

twins. going to flip the exaust around set the turbos up front ,batts in the back, intercooler split intake, duel 2.5 exaust, cat ip, reclock the injection cups 32degrees exaust side, fire ring the head

 

rember u need arp head bolts

 

i thought about studs does anyone make a set

 

Like Joe said...ARP makes the set. Thats what I have in mine. Summit racing has them in their online webstore for about $270 last I checked.

I've heard about flipping the manifolds to get twin turbos, but so far no one has actually tried it. Another option is to get an old turbo kit that positions the turbocharger up on one side manifold like on the chevy 6.5 turbos. Get to kits like that, bolt one on each side and you have yourself twin T4 turbochargers. Again, never heard of anyone doing this but it would be easier to install because most of the positioning is done for you.

 

its all just fun im planing to have a blast

 

put some picks up i want to see and dino it

 

Summit only has them for the 6.9, not the 7.3IDI. You have to call ARP and get a generic one that is a bit longer than we need.

 

Ken at DPS is the only place I know that has 7.3 studs.

The have a serious price on them though.

Diesel Performance Specialists, Inc. - The Diesel Performance Specialists

Stage 1 injectors, modified injection pumps, he was working on a twin turbo setup a while back.

10 thou off the pistons is not enough.

I have 40 thou off mine and am running mid 20's for boost, single ATS turbo.
25 PSI boost and 40 thou off 6.9 pistons puts me at about 54 to 1 effective compression ratio or very close to what a Power Stroke running 30 PSI has.

10 thou off of you pistons leaves you still at or over 21 to 1 for a base compression ratio.
30 PSI would give you an effective compression ratio of about 63 to 1.
With O ringed heads and head studs, you may get away with it that high, but I think twins are more than your engine can handle.

Be prepared to do some work on the intake and exhaust manifold gaskets, the stockers won't hold more than 20 PSI without some mods.

As for the sleeved 7.3 block, put it together as cheap as you can.
Unless your luck is a lot better than mine it will never see 15,000 miles before the block cracks.

Look between the black lines.



That is a 6,500 dollar boat anchor.

I blew three up in 27,000 miles running 7 PSI boost and factory fuel settings.
They sent me a fouth engine under warranty, I tore it down and refused to install it.
Sleeves dropped .007 below the deck and the engine had never been unbolted from the shipping pallet.
You want to build a hot rod engine, 86 or 87 6.9 block is where you start.
Do a minimum bore, no sleeves and start building an engine.
6.9 pistons are available in 20, 30 and 40 over.

A sleeved 7.3 is an expensive disaster looking for a place to happen.
If you look at the left end of the bottom line you can get a feel for how far the sleeve dropped into the block.
Been long enough I don't remember for sure, but something like .022 below the deck.
That engine has 2,790 miles on it, complete drop in reman 7.3 turbo engine.
The next one, 9,800 miles.
I did make 17,000 on the third one.

Also the surfacing marks did line up on the sleeves and block, so when the deck was surfaced the sleeves were flush with the deck.
The big problem with sleeves, the fire rings in the head gasket sit right on the sleeve, not the block.
So when you get the engine hot, the sleeves slide down till the block breaks.

 

Around here the guys running mud skimmers are running 540 gassers.



Under 3 second passes in a 150 foot pit.

The boys running diesels go for the bottom with 54" tires.

 

dose that one truck evan have springs or are thoughts just tube stock

 

[quote=Dave Sponaugle;7015737]Ken at DPS is the only place I know that has 7.3 studs.

Quite a few folks have had them break, so those aren't worth what they charge. Go with ARP, a little more than the 6.9 studs, just a little more work to get them to fit right.

Here's how to order them:

The ARP studs that fit our 7.3 motor are part number AR7.00-1LB at $8.45 each without nuts or washers. They are about 1/4 inch too long but they fit fine. Both Typ4 (Russ) and I are running them. They are 200,000 lbs psi where the new Ford head bolts are only 153,000 lbs psi breaking strength.

The only stud that comes close they make is 7 inches long with 1/2x13 threads on the bottom and 1/2x20 threads on top.

Its just as Russ posted. These studs for our motors were not designed for them but they fit. They are 7 inches long and about 1/4 to 3/8 inch too long. What happens being longer than needed is the stud is sticking out thru the nut so far that the threads touch the deep socket and will iterfere with final torque. Maching orr or grinding off the top threads will stop this from happening and you will still have enough hex for installation. Do not remove any of the bottom threads thinking that would lower the overall length of stud in the motor. That just wont happen because the studs fit into the block a specific way. Shortening them in the block will only cause you to loose some of the clamping force. Not a good thing. The top of the thread past the nut is doing nothing for clamping force so loose that and all will be fine. Or be very careful when torqueing.
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It has springs with 24" of arch added to them over stock.

But that move has turned out to be a bad one.
With stock spring shackles and the arch that high, the springs are almost rigid.

What should have happened was custom spring mounts and stock arched springs so the stock shackles could let the springs work.

One of the guys I work with is putting one together setting on 48's and Rockwells.

I need to take some picture of it soon, he is using stock arch springs with custom spring hangers.


I did hear Ken had a bad batch of 7.3 head studs.
But if you talk to him, he will not build a 7.3 anyway, all because of block cavitation issues.

 

dave when are u going to jack ur truck way up