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Yes, it has turned into quite a project. I suppose I should have used my right angle adaptor for the drill on this one to get at it straight on but I thought "Oh the last two just backed right out so I'll just go with it at an angle" Wrong move!!
I got the head and the exhaust manifold back today and they look OK. The machinist had to drill and tap the hole for a 10mm stud cause I fubar'd the hole a bit. He also had to machine the manifold flat as it was 'high' in the center, it had almost a .030" gap when tightened at one end and measured at the other. That much warpage would only lead to more broken studs and I'm not going there again. He actually used a huge belt sander designed for machinists who need to freehand machine a part. It is extremely difficult to mount an exhaust manifold to a milling machine so he used the belt sander. Smooth and flat is the end result.
I think that it will take me about 8 to 10 hours to put it all back together even though it only took 6 or so to tear it down.
Wow I am in the same boat mine is at the dealer now they are paying 60 percent of the repair talked to them yesterday they have gotten it apart with 2 broken off flush they are having a machine shop come up and drill them out. If the dealer won't drill them glad I didn't attempt it and this is the first time I have paid for auto repair in 20'years
Just an update on the 8ballexpress. Got it all back together Friday afternoon. It took about 12 hours to reassemble. Mind you I am not under any time restraint from the shop foreman or customer, so I take my time and double check alot. Fired it up and it runs smooooth. It took a few minutes to burn all the oil and coolant out of the exhaust but all is OK. I did a cheapo oil change and added a pint of SeaFoam at the recommendation of the machinist. He said the little lash adjusters are bad for gumming up, so I did it. I will change it out later in the week before I hit the road again.
Thanks for all the well wishes. When a guy is in this spot, he needs all the help he can get.
Joined to thank all those involved for the many tips that helped make this job easier for me. Left hand bits, pblaster, easyouts, (bought the round ones) shelved them then bought the square one after many said DON"T USE THE ROUND ONES.
I was planning to use the flanged bolts to replace the log as I'm sure the headers will not fit. Should I go hard stainless or the hard steel grade 8's?
Joined to thank all those involved for the many tips that helped make this job easier for me. Left hand bits, pblaster, easyouts, (bought the round ones) shelved them then bought the square one after many said DON"T USE THE ROUND ONES.
I was planning to use the flanged bolts to replace the log as I'm sure the headers will not fit. Should I go hard stainless or the hard steel grade 8's?
What did you use 3cv?
I used flange head screws, not bolts I guess, seems like bolts but who am I to argue, from mcmaster.com.
98093A553 1 Pack Nonmarring Class 10.9 Flange Head Cap Screw, Steel, M8 Size, 35mm Length, 1.25mm Pitch
10.9 is similar to "grade 8" but for metric. It may be more or less, but its similar.
One pack is 50, I have a bunch left, but the whole pack was like $10.
This may have been horribly wrong and will end in pain and suffering, but it was what I was comfortable with. I was not going to put ford studs back in. So far so good I guess.
I also used the round extractors that mcmaster carr sells, along with the left handed bits they sell, one stop shopping was worth it. I had no problems with the round ones.
The only thing that could possible go wrong with grade 8 steel is, first, rust/corrosion between the steel and the aluminum head, but anti-seize will take care of that.
Second, if the head of the bolt sticks to the manifold, as the manifold expands and contracts, instead of breaking the stainless stud, it'll drag the bolt and hog out the threaded hole in the head.
I used grade 8 zinc-plated steel to put my ebay headers on, with stainless washers underneath, and no issues for 2-3 years until I replaced the headers, but that's not the big cast stainless stock logs.
Thank you kindly for the quick response guys. I really believe our strength as a people are in how we help each other. There are a few saintly types here that have done wonders for people like myself.
Much gratitude.
Thank you kindly for the quick response guys. I really believe our strength as a people are in how we help each other. There are a few saintly types here that have done wonders for people like myself.
Much gratitude.
Send rep points to those who help---its the polite way to return the favor!
Wow I am in the same boat mine is at the dealer now they are paying 60 percent of the repair talked to them yesterday they have gotten it apart with 2 broken off flush they are having a machine shop come up and drill them out. If the dealer won't drill them glad I didn't attempt it and this is the first time I have paid for auto repair in 20'years
I need this job performed. how much should i expect to pay at a dealer/ mechanic.
I went a Midas for ****s and they quoted me around 1300. Im very leery of Midas/private shops but ohwell. I called a Dealer and they said around 1800( or 900-1100 per side) if they need to call in a machinist or w/e. This isn't a job i can handle if something goes south, so i need it taken care of by someone. Im in Frederick, MD if anyone knows of a place or person that does quality work. Im trying to move quick
Archer 379,
I am wondering how you managed to get your Ford dealer to assist with the cost of this repair? Any particular strategy? My truck is a 2007 with 67,000 miles. I plan to talk to my dealer, but am not expecting a positive outcome. Would really appreciate any insight. Thanks!