Leaky rear pinion seal
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FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 30,591
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From: N. IL
Leaky rear pinion seal
See the pic's in my garage. Just started 4-5000 miles ago. Let her go with the occasional dif oil level check or change it out? Will need to rent a few tools I guess.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/m...43-leaker.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/m...43-leaker.html
Last edited by wpnaes; Jun 12, 2011 at 04:22 AM. Reason: added link
More Turbo
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 669
Likes: 7
From: Tennessee
Can you change the seal by removing the yoke? Does this mess up your back lash? It might just have dirt in it. You could try pushing a film between the shaft and the seal to see if you can get the dirt out of it. We do this on dirt bike forks all the time with some degree of success. If the lip is cracked then you are SOL.
Perry
Perry
FTE Legend
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 161,103
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From: North Bay Ont Canada
Hi Perry, here is what I have done with success, with a center punch index the end of the pinion & the nut so you know where to put the nut back to, remove the nut & yoke & change your seal, clean up the yoke & nut & put them back on so the index marks line up again then give the nut a little bit more torque, use a pipe wrench to hold the yoke, don't tighten it up against the gears, it worked for me at the Ford dealer many times.Use lock-tite on the threads if you want.
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FTE Chapter Leader
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From: N. IL
part1
Finally bought the seal and got this one done.
1. Remove Driveshaft with 12mm TORX wrench and cheaterbar
2. 8 bolts to remove the whole driveshaft
3. breakerbar to persuade driveshaft
4. Ice for knee that the shaft landed on
1. Remove Driveshaft with 12mm TORX wrench and cheaterbar
2. 8 bolts to remove the whole driveshaft
3. breakerbar to persuade driveshaft
4. Ice for knee that the shaft landed on
Thread Starter
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FTE Chapter Leader
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From: N. IL
part2
5. Might as well lube up that slip joint while ya got'her off
6. Pull off the one of the straps around the boot
7. Lube and put back -don't get off a spline, keep it on level ground or mark the shaft halves
8. Use something better than my hose clamp (need to stop by the autoparts store manana)
6. Pull off the one of the straps around the boot
7. Lube and put back -don't get off a spline, keep it on level ground or mark the shaft halves
8. Use something better than my hose clamp (need to stop by the autoparts store manana)
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FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 30,591
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From: N. IL
part3
9. Pull off the pinion nut 1 1/8 inch socket.
9a. Mine wasn't very tight, maybe that's why she was leakin'
9b. Or the lube guys overfilled it
10. Make a bracket or pipe tied inot the flange that can be used to pull against rather than the gear teeth
11. Admire the 2nd set of nutz on your Ex.
9a. Mine wasn't very tight, maybe that's why she was leakin'
9b. Or the lube guys overfilled it
10. Make a bracket or pipe tied inot the flange that can be used to pull against rather than the gear teeth
11. Admire the 2nd set of nutz on your Ex.
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FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: Nov 2010
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From: N. IL
part3a
catchin' up on pictures
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FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: Nov 2010
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From: N. IL
part4
12. Mark the nut and center section so you can count revolutions and re-find your spot.
13. Back off the pinion nut.
14. Find and assemble the gear puller.
13. Back off the pinion nut.
14. Find and assemble the gear puller.
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Thread Starter
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FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: Nov 2010
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From: N. IL
part5
14a. Pull flange with puller
15. Remove seal with a screw driver
16. Gently tap in the new seal with a hammer - large diameter pipe better
17. Replace Flange
18. Tighten Nut - I went 1/2 turn tighter than the mark
19. Goto bed, finish tomorrow
15. Remove seal with a screw driver
16. Gently tap in the new seal with a hammer - large diameter pipe better
17. Replace Flange
18. Tighten Nut - I went 1/2 turn tighter than the mark
19. Goto bed, finish tomorrow
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 11,798
Likes: 14
From: Mt. Shasta California
Marking the pinion nut and returning it to the same position is a bad idea! You need to tighten the nut to the point where there is a slight drag on the pinion. The bearings wear and so the pinion gets sloppy and putting a slight drag on the pinion will crush the sleeve a bit more and restore the proper pinion fit and regain the needed resistance on the nut to keep it tight. When you just put it back where it was you are in the same condition you were originally! The combination of the springyness in the crush sleeve and the worn bearings will allow you to restore it to a like new condition. Non mechanics don't need to disagree here.
