Eureka, I'm in business. Thanks ctubutis!
OK, here's what happened. The Bronco harness I pulled would have worked but being the idiot that I am I cut off the power leads portion of the harness that connects to the fuse box. I had been under the impression that there was existing wiring to be able to do this but there isn't. To anyone else who might attempt this in the future.... THERE IS NO FACTORY WIRING CURRENTLY IN THE TRUCK THAT WILL BE USED TO HOOKUP P/W OR P/L. You need to grab the wiring to do this.
Here's the how-to:
-Get doors with power windows and locks. The drivers side has a rubber hose protector that houses the wiring for the doors on it with harness jacks on it. The drivers side is gray, the passenger side is green. There are 8 wires that make up this plug and it plugs into a wiring harness that goes under the dash that'll well get to in a moment.
-There's also a smaller harness coming out of the door that has 2 wires on it. It's for the door speaker.
-Inside the cab-- behind the kick panels on both sides you'll see these gray and green plugs (depending on which side you're looking). This wiring harness runs up the kick panel and under the dash. It runs along the firewall and is held to the firewall with about 5 or so phillips screws.
-Now that you understand how the doors connect, it's important to understand how they are powered. There's another 2 prong mini harness that comes out of the main wiring harness. This also has another harness that plugs into it. It basically splits the wiring so each wire can be plugged into a different section of the fuse panel. Each has it's own pigtail and plugs into a different section of the fuse panel. The pigtail is shaped in a way so that it's somewhat idiot proof and they will only fit into the fuse panel where they were designed to go.
-Take a look at the picture above. The green circles indicate where you will need to put the breakers in for the locks and windows (thing to note, the window uses a 20amp breaker and the locks a 30amp according to the 86 user manual that came with my truck. However, I noticed from the donor vehicle I got the harness out of (it was an 87) that they began using 30 amps for both). I plugged in a 20amp and it ran the window up and down fine so I guess use that one. If it dies you could always go bigger.
-The windows pigtail is easy to spot on the back and makes up the "other half" of the fuse panel jack. So the bottom portion is already wired and hot and the pigtail you're plugging in from the window side is a direct input and the breaker plugs right into it.
-The door lock pigtail is a little different. On my truck (and I'd suspect all that don't have p/w or p/l from the factory) the p/l pigtail is much more difficult to find where it goes. The jacks for the fuse are already in there fusebox. This pigtail does NOT make up the "other half" of the circuit. This is because the pigtail actually clips down on a portion of the panel right next to the jack (again on the back of the panel, just like the p/w). It's a little difficult to spot but once you get it in there you'll know.
After that you should be good to go. Just fish your wires in so they're all nice and tucked away, pat yourself on the back, and sit back and have a few sips from your tasty brew of your choice and congratulate yourself on a job well done.
Cheers.