Overshoot when the oil plug is pulled is a bit of a understatement. Of course I watched the video after changing my oil for the first time, after all I've changed oil on dozens of different vehicles through the years, but none put out a stream like the 6.7. The oil filter is in a great location and the yellow oil plug is outstanding.

2004 Dodge Cummins

My oil drain pan looks like Epic's. I found that if you do not remove the oil drain pan drain plug it will get an airlock and blow oil back up and not let it go into the pan fast enough causing either blow back bubbles or overflow.
Just something to check into.

Great video EpicCowlick!

I did the punch method for draining off the filter again this time. I knew last time I did my oil change I didn't go far enough to hit the second layer, so this time I pounded my nail all the way in.

I am a bit frustrated as I don't think I hit the second layer this time either? The filter drained for probably 5-8 minutes before I started unscrewing it. When the filter broke free from the seal oil started gushing out so I left it sit for a few more minutes before just sticking my hands in it and screwing off the filter the rest of the way. The nail I used was about 3.5" long and I thought I hit a second distinct layer that had to be pounded through to get the nail up to the head against the filter housing.

I just did my oil yesterday. Did not puncture the filter, just put a small trash can under it and let it drain. I can say this, if you dump the contents of the filter combined with what drains out the filter mount, you get about 3 quarts of oil. So, if you puncture and see that you have more than 2 quarts of oil that has drained, you should be good to go.

I will add, I used a bucket for the oil drain and a trash can for the filter drain. Only got 2 drops of oil on the floor. I don't think puncturing is all that crucial for a clean job.

On the last five oil changes, I'm batting 400. Sometimes punching the filter empties nicely, other times there is still a quart that runs down the sides. There's a bubble or airlock or something that keeps all the oil from draining out sometimes. Regardless, it's a lot less oil that runs over the filter when you punch it!

Thanks for all the comments about "punching" the oil filter. The first time I didn't punch and the oil filter seemed full as well as running over the side. The second time I "punched" and still had the oil running over the side after letting it drain. Epic says his average is 400, which is nearly as good as Ted Williams. But, is there any way to bat 1,000 so the oil doesn't flow over the side at all--or does this come under the heading of "fun experiences while changing oil?"

Easiest thing would be to turn the engine a few times while draining the oil, but we can't turn this motor without starting it. There has to be some kind of top center for the oil pump that would allow the oil to flow out the hole in the filter, just have to find it.

Thanks Epic!
 

Thanks for putting time into making the videos. I am due for my first oil change. This was very helpful.

Also, what weight oil are most of y'all using?

I used R.T6 5W-40 in my 6.0 and never had any problems. I live in the South, was using rotella 15w-40 but changed to the thinner oil due to injector stiction.

I am considering going back to Rotella 15w-40 on this new truck. I am a stickler on oil changes, 5k max. Do y'all think synthetic will provide better protection over dino due to the fuel dilution? If so, i would definitly go back with the synthetic oil.

Thanks again.

I'm in the south and I use 15-40. Have not had any problems, it's in the manual on the climate chart.

The fuel in oil dilution really has no relevance to synthetic vs. dino oil argument. The primary benefit of the synthetic oil is that it holds up extremely well to high temps (400 synthetic begins to break down vs. 240 for dino oil) and flows much better at low temps. Both oils dilute equally during the regen process and you can protect from that by making sure you don't extend the period between oil changes. I change at 5,000 also but it's probably overkill. I'm sure the engine could go another 2,000. It's just easier for me to remember on the 5's.

Thanks for the input. I believe I will be going with rotella t6 on 5k changes. I have a few jugs left over anyway. Given the price of our investment, it makes sense to me.

Side story, I brought my truck in this past week to have the exhaust sensor recall done. Truck has 5200 miles on it so I wanted them to change the oil while they had it. Well, when I picked her up I noticed I had a 0 bance on my receipt, they didn't change the oil! Tech said it was a waste and just wait till the "change oil" indicator comes on..... Kinda agravating! Anyways, while I was their I got me a filter and I'll just do it myself.

Thanks

I know it's your truck and money, I get that. But think from a big corporate angle here. Ford is and should be working to reduce the waste of natural resources and the tech may be correct, it would be a waste of oil unless you really ran your motor hot.

Just think of the millions of gallons of oil being kept on the shelf by delaying an oil change by 2500 miles.

Just a thought, not arguing.....

Epic;

Thanks for making and posting this VID. It's been a few years since I owned a diesel or changed my own oil. Purchased a new 2011 2500 6.7L that was left over and still on a dealer's lot yesterday and found this forum.

Does anyone have an idea what a dealer charges to change oil on a diesel and how much doing it yourself saves?