POWER STEERING PUMP REBUILD?
I am wondering if anyone makes a power steering pump rebuild kit?I have a 2000 f250 7.3.I pulled the pump completely apart to see what made it tick,and why it was wining.It seems that besides a few seals the most wore out parts were the little rotor vanes.Can these be bought or am I just pissing in the wind,and I should just go out and buy a rebuilt pump for 75 bucks?Any info would be great,thanks.:-headbang
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i would guess a rebuilt pump would be the best option for this. So what does everybody else think? Hopefully some off the parts guys will chime in here.
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I would get one from the Ford... $96 see:
www.partsguyed.com |
Rebuilding a power steering pump, like a water pump only makes sense it you really want to do it for the experience. In practical experience, it is better to buy a rebuilt unit due to how easy it is to mess up the overhaul the first time and have to do it over.
Often, these kinds of parts are designed so it takes special tools or fixtures to assemble them properly. Another consideration is that you are messing with a critical safety part. If quality and durability are your goals, buy a new pump instead of a rebuilt one. |
Here's a question, kind of relating to the thread, are their high quality extremely better after market PS pumps.
As to your pump, if you want to save money, I'd have to agree, buy a rebuilt and take in your core, but if you want to learn, well, hope you have the tools, doubt I do :p |
POWER STEERING PUMP REBUILD
Thanks for the responses.Looks like reman it is.I can get one from carquest out here for about $75.Thanks again.
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Originally Posted by Visseroth
(Post 9312433)
Here's a question, kind of relating to the thread, are their high quality extremely better after market PS pumps.
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Originally Posted by jackstraw
(Post 9315888)
I've read here before about the Redhead pumps. Not just re-builds, re-engineered pumps. Sounds good to me, I'm kind of saving up for one but for now keeping the original pump topped off with fluid once in a while is working OK while other things are higher on the priority list. Would like to hear more opinions on the idea though.
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I have seen conversion kits that use a Saginaw pump to replace the Ford unit.
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Gentlemen,
It is certainly possible to wear one out or break one but I have never seen it. I usually just replace the seal and that cures the problem. Seal is easy to change and kind of fun to do. Last one cost 8.00 including the case seal. The plain bearings obviously run bathed in oil and unless you run it dry, they don't seem to wear at all. Ken |
Originally Posted by Visseroth
(Post 9312433)
Here's a question, kind of relating to the thread, are their high quality extremely better after market PS pumps.
Find them here: AGR Perfomance, Inc.
Originally Posted by Visseroth
(Post 9312433)
As to your pump, if you want to save money, I'd have to agree, buy a rebuilt and take in your core, but if you want to learn, well, hope you have the tools, doubt I do :p
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Originally Posted by ken1mod
(Post 9317263)
Gentlemen,
It is certainly possible to wear one out or break one but I have never seen it. I usually just replace the seal and that cures the problem. Seal is easy to change and kind of fun to do. Last one cost 8.00 including the case seal. The plain bearings obviously run bathed in oil and unless you run it dry, they don't seem to wear at all. Ken |
1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by kbeefy
(Post 9319101)
So, does that fix the 'groaning' pump syndrome? I bought a Motorcraft rebuilt pump for about $90+core, but if I can rebuild it for $10-20 then I'm game.
Purging —CII Power Steering Pump Special Tool(s) Vacuum Pump 416-D002 (D95L-7559-A) or Equivalent CAUTION: If the air is not purged from the power steering system correctly, premature power steering pump failure could result. This condition can occur on pre-delivery vehicles with evidence of aerated fluid or on vehicles that have had steering component repairs. NOTE: A whine heard from the power steering pump may be caused by air in the system. The power steering purge procedure must be performed prior to any component repair for which power steering noise complaints are accompanied by evidence of aerated fluid. Remove the reservoir cap. Check the fluid. Use Motorcraft MERCON® Multi-Purpose ATF XT-2-QDX or MERCON® equivalent. Attachment 27512 Tightly insert the stopper of the Vacuum Pump into the reservoir. Start the vehicle. Apply maximum vacuum and maintain it for a minimum of three minutes with the engine speed set at idle. Release the vacuum and remove the vacuum pump. CAUTION: Do not overfill the reservoir. Fill the reservoir. Use Motorcraft MERCON® Multi-Purpose ATF XT-2-QDX or MERCON® equivalent. Reinstall the Vacuum Pump. Apply and maintain maximum vacuum. CAUTION: Do not hold the steering wheel against the stops for more than three to five seconds at a time. Damage to the power steering pump could occur. Cycle the steering wheel fully to the left and right every 30 seconds for approximately five minutes. Stop the engine, release the vacuum, and remove the Vacuum Pump. Install the reservoir cap. Check for fluid leaks at all of the connections. If the power steering fluid shows signs of air, repeat this procedure. |
Thanks for the instructions. I had the ford whine and purged fluid w/ merc V and installed a PS filter. Don't think I let it get low enough to introduce air, but the whine increased to a groan w/ occasional worse noises and feedback in the wheel. Brakes actually feel better. I've driven it about 1000 miles, no improvement. When I purged it I had it on jacks and cycled the wheel many times, until there seemed to be no improvement, checking fluid level every 2-3 cycles.
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Huh, well wonder if that means my wife needs a new PS pump as well, the fluid is topped, it doesn't leak but it groans like crazy, but it's probably the original PS pump and has 220K on that 3.8 gasser
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