HAS ANYONE TRIED TO.............
 

Has anyone tried to fill the dog legs/cab corners on a 53-56, I cleaned these out today, they were full of sand, bondo dust, pieces of sandpaper, bolts, you name it was probably in there. I don't think I'd want a face full of this when I paint the door jambs and it may also take some of the noise out from under the cab. I thought about the epoxy that is used to fill electronic ckt packs. The expandable foam from HD doesn't work, I tried that once and had to get it back out. How about it, anybody!

I haven't, but toyed with it.. I made a filler to go across the flat part of the cab there and into the curved shape.. a 1/4 moon shaped piece.. I tried sheet metal and plastic sheet.. would have worked ok I guess.. in the end I just forgot about it as the interior was done, and can't see em now.. speaker grills cover the corner..

Sam

Filling the void
 

I'm definitely going to cover mine. Have considerd a 1/2" plywood base on a PVC or fibreglass storage compartment that would replace or incorporate the tool tray and rear speakers. Might also be handy for jack storage, etc. Low on my priorities right now, but have measured up for the design. I'm surprised the foam filler didn't workout, as that was what I was going to use on the void before I covered it.

Tom

If you fill it..... where are you going to throw your trash?

Duh, I have windows!!

I've contemplated the same issue. I bought a '51 out of CO a few years back and it has a damn solid cab. I don't know how the corners weren't rotted out, though because they were packed full of the same stuff you're finding in yours. That stuff is just a big trap for moisture and the rust soon follows. I cleaned mine out good with a shopvac and oiled them up for the near term. Long term, I don't know what to do. Filling them with something solid like you propose would definitely keep the water out, but my concern with that would be what happens if a cab corner is ever damaged and bodywork needs done. That would be a major problem. A friend of mine builds new Subarus for a living. They shoot a liquid wax into areas like this. It hardens up as it dries and waterproofs the area. I think that kind of a treatment combined with a cover to keep debris out would be the best way to go.

There are several 2 part foams made for automotive use, just use a good exoxy primer first, let it cure before adding foam, just measure and calculate how much to use, as some foams expands 10X. Use closed cell to prevent moisture from penetrating it.

How about spraying the expanable foam in a can ..into a plastic bag stuffed into the area.The bag would contain and conform to the area. I would think you need at least 'some' space to allow any moisture to breathe/evaporate.

You cannot use the spray can expanding foam in an enclosed bag, as it will not cure properly, as it takes air and humidity to cure. Use a 2 part in thr plastic bag as it cures through a chemical reaction. Un-cured foams= rust

I experienced the hell of expanding foam in my Camaro... I sprayed it into a few crevices between my roof skin and inner roof structure.
I recently replaced the entire roof skin because of the moisture held against the inside of the roof skin. The sheetmetal rusted through... on a car that's been garaged for the last 8 out of the 11 or so years since I sprayed that junk up there!

In short.. DON'T DO IT!

Hmmn, good question, same problem on the bucktooth's too btw. I wonder if you couldn't use that rust bullet stuff first and then fill it with epoxy or fiberglass? Interesting question, i'll be following this thread.

Thanks for all the input, I started this thread out of curiosity as much as anything, but the post from KCPAINTER got me to thinking. I found a web site (uscomposites.com) that has 3 pound kits, suitable for marine use. It's waterproof, 95-98% closed cell and it only cost $20.50 plus shipping. I think I'll call them and see what I can find out. Stay tuned

here is how I fixed mine (out of sight...)

sam

UPDATE!!! Us Composites does NOT recommend the use of ANY epoxy for this application, over time even a 98% closed cell will absorb moisture. They recommend, of all things, bed liner from a spray can, available at Wal-Mart. I am going out later this morning, I'll stop by and check it out

you have to be careful on the lower seam, this area is NOT water tight, so any water that gets in here will sit, and if you goop up the lower seam, there will be no way out..

I used weld thru primer on the lower seams to stop rust between the inner/outer cab corners.

sam