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-   -   2005 Expedition transmission = dead? (https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/981595-2005-expedition-transmission-dead.html)

gistecknician 10-19-2011 06:46 PM


Originally Posted by RAM7880 (Post 9901785)
is there a part # for this clip and is it a dealer only part ? is pulling the valve body on this trans. difficult or the same as most other trans.

Bump :-X22

I am in need of the e-clip as well. Can anyone out there let us know what size the e-clip is please, this is such a common problem that this info would really be useful to future searchers.

jk080 10-21-2011 10:47 AM


Originally Posted by gistecknician (Post 10940170)
Bump :-X22

I am in need of the e-clip as well. Can anyone out there let us know what size the e-clip is please, this is such a common problem that this info would really be useful to future searchers.


I never have had to buy this e clip, I have always just found one laying around in the shop. Its a common clip in the transmission world, its used in many different applications.

So I found one and stuck it in my pocket to match up one day if I was out.

I had to go to Lowe's for something and I stopped by the hardware section and found the match for the e clip.

Here is a link to the clip at Lowe's, its a 3/8 standard e clip.

Shop The Hillman Group 2-Count 3/8" Black E-Clips at Lowes.com

Having no 4th gear is not from the e clip being broken and off the servo, no 4th is due to that fact that a piece of the clip has stuck the valve.

You have to remove the valvebody to get to clip to replace it on the servo but you also have to remove the separator plate off the valve body and get the piece of e clip out of the valve so it can move.

jco1385 12-11-2011 06:27 PM

My buddy has an 04 4.6l 4x4 FX4 and has these symptoms. I plan to do the work myself. It's pretty straight forward, I just have a few questions. What are all the parts I will need? As for what I know: the e-clip, 5-6 quarts of fluid (Merc V?) and new filter. Will I need the separator plate gasket? If so, what is that part number? I've done a j-mod on my 4r70w in my Thunderbird and I did need it. I just want to be thorough and have everything I need when we get it apart. Also, is there a picture or explanation of where the new e-clip is supposed to go? I'm not very well versed as to what is what when I'm looking at it.

Thanks.

lphilipp 12-17-2011 10:22 PM

Help! I'm lost...
 
I have the same problem with the transmission in my 2006 expedition and this is not the first time... about two years ago this same thing happened. I took it to the shop and it was $1200 for the fix. This time I decided to fix it myself. <O:p</O:p
<O:p></O:p>
When I took the valve body off the 2-3 accumulator was loose and fell out. I can't get it to stay when I put it back in. It's the kind with the cleat like things not the one with the snap ring. Should I clean all the fluid out of that area before I put it back? My e-clip is still in place - unfortunately.<O:p</O:p
<O:p></O:p>
Also, there was a smaller spring that was loose. I thought it went inside the larger spring but I do not see it in the replacement part pictures. Anyone know where it goes?<O:p</O:p
<O:p></O:p>
I'm not a real mechanic. I have changed my own oil and spark plugs but never played inside the transmission before. I bought the haynes manual but it shows a full rebuild and I was trying to get by without having to do that.<O:p</O:p
<O:p></O:p>

jk080 12-18-2011 10:27 PM

The rubber seals on the accumulator piston should keep the piston up in the case without any problem.

The metal retainer can fall out, you will just have to work with it to stay until you get the valve body back on. The retainer fits in the case with the raised center point facing the valve body. Look close at the separator plate where this retainer contacts the plate, sometimes it can crack the plate and this can lead to problems with the forward and direct clutch.

I don't know of another spring in this area, could there be a shift kit installed in this tranny? Some shift kits have extra springs and there are aftermarket accumulator pistons that are hard plastic with teflon rings on them, these pistons can fall out. The stock piston is metal but with molded rubber seals.

jco1385 12-19-2011 09:53 AM

4 Attachment(s)
Just to update my situation, and answer a few of my questions...

Yes, you will need gaskets. There are two, one above and below the separator plate. Also when we did this yesterday, we lost about 10qts of fluid.

The problem with this one was the snap ring holding one of the accumulators (not sure which - forward most, largest one). The small notched end had broken off and made its way into the valve body. We didn't see any broken e-clips. I didn't see any way to pull the snap ring off to replace it with the end being broke off, so we just left it how it was. Everything went back together, new filter and a lot of fluid and it's shifting out just fine now. Any idea why this broke?

The culprit:
Attachment 202477

Its original location (the broken snap ring):
Attachment 202478

Where we found it:
Attachment 202479

When we were bottling the old fluid to take to recycle, we found this filter at the bottom of the pan. I'm sure it needs to go back in, but how urgent is it? Do I need to put this back in today? Also, where exactly does it go? I didn't see where it came from.

Attachment 202480

jk080 12-19-2011 01:04 PM

I have seen various snap rings break in many different applications, when the servo is applied and released the snap ring is flexed just a little. Over time it can break, kind of like a paper clip if its bent back and forth a bunch of times it will break.

Sure the best thing to do is to replace it, but it will most likely work like it is for a long time.

The filter goes in the case under the valve body, it will work fine without it, the earlier models didn't even have one, so I wouldn't worry about it.

Thanks for sharing the pictures, you had the same problem but with a differnet snap ring, I don't see that one break much but it does happen.

Good job!

Mark Kovalsky 12-19-2011 03:58 PM

Throw out that little filter. It's purpose is to catch machining chips that didn't get cleaned up during manufacturing. Once the trans has a few miles on it that filter isn't needed any longer.

ArmedMech 01-23-2012 12:04 AM

Same Problem - What tools and parts should i need to do this at home?
 
Hey guys,

First off, i really appreciate the posts on this board. I believe i am having some of the same issues, and quite possibly have a broken e-clip in my valve body. I have a couple of options, and would like some advice as to what i might need to perform this sort of job at home. I am a decently well versed diesel fleet tech, but have never fiddled inside the inner working of an AT.

Specs:
2005
F-150 XLT Crewcab
5.4L Eng
4R75W Trans (I believe)
85k miles

Symptoms:
Not upshifting into 4th gear, goes into neutral while driving (R,1,2,3 still work fine)
Fluid is cherry red, doesnt smell burnt.


Option A:
Let Dealer Replace Transmission with Factory Refurb
Part# SL3Z7000DRM
Price: 2301.28 --> (plus labor(8hrs)) --> Actual Price = 3,300.00
(if done by dealer, would include a 3 yr warranty)

Option B:
Let dealer extract e-clip
Projected Parts list
1L3Z-7C155-AA GASKET 4.76
F75Z-7H188-AA PISTON AND ROD 60.77
F2TZ-7F196-A BAND ASY - OVE 44.97
MTK-53900-C KIT - GASKET 118.48
3L3Z-7A100-AA CONTROL ASSY - SPORD 504.14
Price: 799.83 --> (plus labor(15hrs)) --> Actual Price = 2525.00
(would include 1 yr Warranty)

Option C:
Pull the pan, valvebody and extract e-clip (hopefully this is the problem) myself, (not planning on pulling the trans unless necessary)

Parts list??? (i need help with this)
Part# ???? Trans Pan gasket
Part# ???? E-clip
Other Parts????

Special tools??? (i have a decently well stocked box, but no special tools for any auto-trans repair, nor do i know what they are)

Price: ???? (cheaper by a lot, i'm assuming)


My Requests of this Board:

1. Can somone can tell me whether or not i need to pull the tranny completely to perform this operation?

2. Can someone provide me a list of required parts, or tell me if i need all of the items on the dealer repair list (i feel as though they are planning to replace items in the tranny that may not be bad at all)?

3. Since i am fairly inexperienced, can someone could just write down a couple of step-by-step processes for valvebody removal and installation, and whatever else is necessary to be able to get the e-clip and install the new one?

4. Lastly, are there any special tools i need to perform this sort of operation?


Finally, thanks in advance, i think that there is enough information on this board for me to do it on my own, i am just trying to cover all my bases since this is the first time i've tinkered with the innerworkings of an automatic transmission.

Thank you for your time,

ArmedMech

jco1385 01-23-2012 09:46 AM


Originally Posted by ArmedMech (Post 11324598)

My Requests of this Board:

1. Can someone can tell me whether or not i need to pull the tranny completely to perform this operation?

No, only drop the pan and pull the valve body.

2. Can someone provide me a list of required parts, or tell me if i need all of the items on the dealer repair list (i feel as though they are planning to replace items in the tranny that may not be bad at all)?

If your problem is the same as mine (and others in this thread) then you will not need all of those parts. You will need the e-clip itself (3/8" Standard E-Clip). Also you will need the separator plate gaskets. There are 2. I just called the dealer and gave them the VIN and told them I needed those gaskets. I got both for <$5. The pan gasket is reusable. It probably wouldn't be a bad idea to go ahead and change the filter while you are in there. And of course you will need to replace the fluid lost (Merc V).

3. Since i am fairly inexperienced, can someone could just write down a couple of step-by-step processes for valvebody removal and installation, and whatever else is necessary to be able to get the e-clip and install the new one?

I found these instructions online. They seem to be pretty accurate.
If I remember correctly, the pan bolts are 10mm, and the valve body bolts are 8mm.

Page 1 (the 'molded lead frame' is the black plastic piece for the electrical connectors)
Page 2
Page 3

Here is a diagram of the valve body bolts. I made a cardboard template for these so that each bolt would go back in the same hole. There were a couple that were longer. This is also the torque sequence for the valve body bolts.

After you have the valve body off, you will need to pull the separator plate off. It will be the plate that is on the 'top' of the valve body (has 2 discs on top). Inside, there are I think 5 balls and 2 small filters. You want to make sure these go back where they came from. I made a template for those also. If you drain the fluid and orient the valve body as shown in my post above you should see a piece of metal in the slot I have circled. Remove that and you are ready to reassemble with the new gaskets.


With the valve body off, look up at the transmission. You will see either a broken e-clip or as I had, a broken snap ring. You will need to replace the e-clip if broken, but I decided to leave the broken snap ring in place.

Once the e-clip/snap ring is replaced, and the valve body reassembled you can put everything back together. Be sure that you don't forget the gasket that goes on above the separator plate. Install the valve body, filter and pan. Refill with Merc V fluid until full.

4. Lastly, are there any special tools i need to perform this sort of operation?

There shouldn't be and special tools. Just a ratchet, 10mm and 8mm sockets, rags and a catch pan for the fluid.

Finally, thanks in advance, i think that there is enough information on this board for me to do it on my own, i am just trying to cover all my bases since this is the first time i've tinkered with the innerworkings of an automatic transmission.

Thank you for your time,

ArmedMech

Answers above in red. I think I covered everything, but if I didn't I'm sure someone will straighten me out. It sounds intimidating, but there's really not much to it. Pay attention to where everything went, and how it came apart and make sure it goes back the same. You do that and this is an easy project.

ArmedMech 01-23-2012 11:41 AM

Jco 1385,

Thanks for answering all my questions, I really appreciate the help, and should be getting down on this this sat evening.

I will try to take some photos for the board, and follow up.

Lastly, can someone tell me what the torque spec should be for those valvebody bolts?

I have a 10-100 ft/lbs torque wrench, but can get an in/lbs if necessary.

Also, would using locktight be recommended as well?

Thanks, things are looking prospectively better than the other options I had at hand.

jco1385 01-23-2012 11:47 AM


Originally Posted by ArmedMech (Post 11326142)
Jco 1385,

Thanks for answering all my questions, I really appreciate the help, and should be getting down on this this sat evening.

I will try to take some photos for the board, and follow up.

Lastly, can someone tell me what the torque spec should be for those valvebody bolts?

I have a 10-100 ft/lbs torque wrench, but can get an in/lbs if necessary.

Also, would using locktight be recommended as well?

Thanks, things are looking prospectively better than the other options I had at hand.

The torque sequence link shows them at 89 lb-in. I wouldn't use locktite. Also, you can buy that e-clip at Lowe's. There is a link above somewhere in this thread.

Dwhitley167 01-24-2012 08:31 PM

there is an awsome vid on youtube on how to remove the valve body and he's got torque specs too. vbinstall.avi - YouTube I was missing that same piece of that snap ring. I was taking a shot and pulling the valve body off to check the overdrive servo spring. I just figured that piece of the snap ring was in the bottom of my drip pan and i didn't pull the plate off the top of the valve body to look in it. So ill be pulling it back off to check it.

Dwhitley167 01-27-2012 09:10 PM

yup, exact same piece of snap ring was in the exact place in the valve body. Thanks to this thread i found my prob.

confused18 11-02-2012 06:09 PM

I'm having a problem with a 06 fx4 5.4 litre I just bought. When i test drove it it ran great but today I noticed it seemed to be shifting funny from 2-3 and 3-4 on light acceleration, like it was going into neutral. Well since the person I purchased it from said it had a transmission warranty on it I took it to the local dealer just to find out this has been an on going problem to the extent that its had 3 new transmissions installed,they even removed the trans. from my truck and installed it into another truck where it performed perfectly,all the pressures checked out with no codes. They suggest trying a new PCM, so I'm trying to do some research before I spend another grand on it. I should also add that when you turn off the OD it shifts out fine. Any help would be greatly appreciated.


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