Transfer Case - Electric Clutch
 

Anyone knows what's inside that electric clutch? Mine will not lock up. I checked the sensors, the solenoid resistance - all good. Hotwired the thing to bypass the control module - no avail. It flashes a code 9 which is a mechanical problem but I was told that the clutch is so simple there is nothing that can be broken. Does it have some kinda lining that can be worn?
I am about to put in another t-case from the junkyard unless someone has a better idea.

There is clutch pack. Magnetically actuated.

Dana 28 Transfer Case Aerostar Van's Parts Illustration & parts list! - Drivetrain.com

I used to change clutch pack twice, after we got in stuck in mood and draw more then 3 miles in mood.

http://www.drivetrain.com/images/sto...28p2_large.jpg

I have those pictures too but still don't know what is inside (if anything) the clutch itself?
So what happend to those clutches? What did you see when you took them apart?

yeah, there are clutch disks, like inside auto tranny. But they sell clutch as unit. I do not think you can repare it. yeah, there are workshops that make parts for autos. Sometimes we can see T-case on JYs with good clutch, becouse some soccer moms drive vans with disabled t-case computer and clutch was never used. it is a chance)) LOL!

I advice U to put override switch to disable clutch when U want and let t-case unit lock clutch when U can really get in stuck.

I was wrong, you can purchase cluutch pack

http://www.performanceoffroadcenter....es/35%20pr.jpg

PORC

Thanks Pablo!
I guess mine simply worn out. I'll go and get another one.

use thread lock. onese we got Kursk Battle inside T-case, we had to convert van to part time 4WD with manual BW t-case.

Are you sure this is for the transfer case? The advertisement says it's for differentials, and the front axle of the Aerostar is also designated as a Dana 28, although I do not believe there was ever a trac-loc version.

ouh! I was wrong....
it is for axe diff. exuse me!

Check the park neutral sw input to the computer..My sw was bad which caused no lockup..

Oh and you can still get a new transfer case for $350 or less..

I saw that one on ebay; it shows up every once in a while. Just realize that it's for a 1992 or later car where they're using the speed sensor in the rear axle for the speedometer. This case does not have the mounting hole for the gear-driven mechanical speedometer; it probably does not have the gear drive inside either.

You are correct..

I checked the resistance (ok) then hotwired the clutch solenoid to test it directly. I raised the rear left tire half inch off the ground then I put the tranny into drive. I did not jump off the jack so it means the clutch did not do its job. Maybe this is not a good way to test it. Anyone sees any problem with my test method?

I got a used T-case from a '96 A-Star yesterday for 95 bucks (CDN). I'll clean it today then will test the sensors and the clutch. So there is still time for ideas before I put some dynamite under and blast the whole thing apart.

That's an effective but really dangerous way of testing awd.

I usually jack up the front and back together to do this test. If you have an open rear diff, at least one wheel on each end should turn. If you have limited slip rear end, both wheels in the rear should turn (unless the clutch pack in the diff is also really worn) and at least one of the front wheels should turn. You can alternately try to hold a front wheel on one side then the other steady, and the wheel that you're not holding should turn faster. But if you can somehow hold both front wheels steady, and the rear wheels speed up, then yes, the center diff is completely open, and the clutch must be dead.

When you hot wired the clutch, did you hear a clunk or click?