You have very good taste, Kevin. The '42 is a one-of-one. It's the prototype for the 50-56 Rangers, but done on a sedan delivery chassis. The '56 looks in the pic to be a half ton judging by the front rims. I believe I've read that the '37 sitting next to it is one of two known to have survived. Stu

apperantly tomorrow is a holiday ??? canada day .so I will get some pictures and do some checking to find out what is wrong with the breaks..and try and grease everything and change the oil and filter ..I wonder what can go in the front end to stop it ..if it was just the breaks locked up..or something broke..better to find out before gathering parts..what did your buddy what for the front end assambly??I will give youall an update tomorrow ..

Don't know. I'd suggest doing him a private message to ask. Owen's on here as 1952henry. But remember I said I've referred another guy to him about it too, and Owen said that is still hanging.

Another thing to think of is gear ratio. Assuming your axle is a Timken A150, and Owen's spare is a B150, you'll still need to match the gear ratio of your truck's rear end. Finding replacement gear sets might be possible, but might be expensive unless you can find a used donor rear. I agree you are best to pull the axle and see what's wrong before starting to spend money.

Edit - Other way around. The 3/4 ton is the A-150. Tonner is the B-150. Stu

We definitely need to see some pics. Nothing more fun than discussing another M-H truck coming out of the weeds.

Dave

1953 F-250 M-H 4x4

well I have the pix's but i can't find the damm cord to feed it into the computer..

if my wife throttles me in my sleep it's your fault..:-X17

file:///C:/Users/Ken/Pictures/54%204X4%20Ford/S4021506.JPG well that didn't work..

Ken - If it's not working, if you want to email pics to me I'll post them. My email is stu_sandymcmillan at sbcglobal dot net. Stu

Here it is. I'm posting a sample of the pics, Ken. To save bandwidth. If there are others you'd like to see posted please say. It's sure straight, but has rust like most do. I've not seen the MH badges mounted in that location, but you see something new everyday I guess. She's a beauty. Stu

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/l...atterson11.jpg
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/l...Patterson3.jpg
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/l...nPatterson.jpg
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/l...Patterson7.jpg
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/l...atterson10.jpg
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/l...Patterson6.jpg
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/l...Patterson9.jpg

ALL RIGHT Thank you stu .so where do we start ..paint ,tires,battery..I have soaked all the wheels with penatrating oil ,and now the adventure begins..

Well, paint would be last. Battery is good, getting it to run is a first step. Finding out what your front axle issue is would come shortly after. You'll want to see if the wheels are widowmakers, and ponder your options there. What I wouldn't do it start any disassembly until you know what you're up against, and can see with a clear head whether you want to tackle all the things it will need. Stu

well if the widomakers arethe split in the center of the rim they are . after crawling under the truck I could see a seam in the rim so ..I understand that some motorhome rims interchange .the wheel shops around here arn't much help..I had wondered about removeing the centers of the rims and haveing them welded into a 16inch truck rim..it's gotta be cheeper ..

Assuming you're correct that they are widowmakers, finding original old tubeless replacement wheels could take a major search. From the pics your wheels look like the single wheel style that have 3.5" of dish. Dually wheels would have at least 4.75" of dish (also called offset) and you could see that the tires would have probably an inch or so of compression clearance if the wheels were dualled up. Your wheels are the type that have 6 lug x 7.25" bolt circle.

That means that having tubeless wheels made is probably your better option. Assuming your wheels are the 17" stock wheels, pulling the full centers to mount in new 16" rims would mean that you'd have to cut them down to fit. When I visited American Wheel Specialist in Pasco, WA, a few years ago I was told that they can do that. But you'd have to make sure a 16" would clear your brake drums. Another option would be to use 19.5" x 6" drop center rims. A 17" tube type center, at least on my wheels, fits perfectly into a 19.5" tubeless drop center rim. Another method that I've seen used by Stockton Wheel is to simply center and weld the old wheel's face onto the face of a new/used donor wheel. Stockton then machines the donor wheel's center out from the back and welds that seam. This yields a new wheel with slightly more dish, but it works. Stu

this is why I came here in the first place !! I find out what I need to know where to look and what to watch for.I am pulling off the front wheels over the weekend to see what is wrong and take a wheel apart to be sure of what i have ...I guess it's into the dirty work now ...thanks

Remember that you'll have left hand and right hand threads. Look at the end of the stud for an "L" or "R". Stu