Correct starting procedure inline 6
 

I hate to sound like a dope but here goes. Can someone tell me how I should be starting my 65 inline 6. The reason I ask is because when I pull the choke out to full, pump it a couple times,fires right up. Then when I try to start to ease the choke in it feels like it's pushing back. Is the choke on this manual in the sense that I'm supposed to close it a little at time till it will run with no choke? It almost feels like it wants to do it's own thing. I did notice a spring and damper type device on the exaust manifold is this related to the operation of this choke ? I have not been able to get it to idle off choke. I have to feather the gas pedal to keep it running. So I'm wondering if I'm supposed to pull the choke to full open start the engine and then leave it alone. Like I said I feel kind of stupid. Any help please. BTW it's a manual three on the tree

I'd recommend rebuilding the carburetor. Mine always starts without the choke, but its a 292. I do remember one day it was kinda cold out and it wouldn't start and unless i put the choke on and then started it and gave it way more throttle that it should have needed, but it was an ignition problem that i have since fixed. It wasn't firing on all cylinders and an ignition tune up took care of that.

If you haven't rebuilt the carb you should, its old and new gaskets and parts wouldn't hurt anything. Mine used to die after a minute if you didn't rev it up a little every now and then, but now it will idle all day long now that i rebuilt the carburetor.

My choke slips in and out pretty easy on my 66 with a 300 six cyl. Your choke cable may need to be lubricated. I have been doing some research on the 1bbl carbs and am getting the impression that none of them were ever really good, alot of people state they have flat spots and a big hesitiation accelerating from a stopped position which is what I am experiancing now, seems like the accelerator pump on the carb is not working. also dont be suprised if your throttle cable breaks in the near future as thats what might be causing your issue, mine broke and was acting like yours just before it let go, don't even look for a stock replacement as they are no longer available, I switched to the LOKAR cable which was an easy retro fit and works GREAT. Here is a picture of it. Good luck.
http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/m...s/IMG_1316.jpg

Hi, my '60 with the 223 I had the same problem. Come to find out i had the sheath of the choke cable too far away from the end of the center cable when the choke was pulled closed. I readjusted everything so there was about 1/4 inch gap between the sheath and the choke cam when the choke is fully pulled closed. Everything was too far apart and binding up. Works good now.

For starters, make sure the idle speed isnt set too low...
On mine, I pull it full out(max choke) once it lights off as it warms up push the choke in till its fully off...Fords are notoriously cold blooded...once they are warm though there shouldnt be any problem assuming everything is set to spec(idle, timing, etc.)
BTW...your question is a good one as not everyone is familiar with how older rigs work in all areas...especially since todays modern cars and trucks are pretty much start and go...




- cs65

Thanks for the help guys, I will have to look over the things you all describe. I'm sure the carb could use a rebuild. I'm not sure I'm up to the task. I'll ask a friend if he can help in that regard. It seems to run well and very smooth just not at idle. It starts in a snap no strange noises no smoke. Wish I knew more about it. I guess I'm going to learn. Has anyone ever used one of the rebuilts from auto z*ne. I think it has an eletric choke though so, is it useable on my truck?

If you haven't changed the fuel filter lately, that is where I'd start. If/when you know the fuel filter is good, then pick up a spray can of carb cleaner. With the engine warmed up (running for at least 5 minutes), get a helper to hold the idle at a fast idle (2000-2500rpms) while you I'd spray some carb cleaner down the carb throat (inside) and all over the outside of the carb. Once the outside of the carb was cleaned up, then spray the remainder of the can contents down the carb throat until it stalls start with a engine. Then turn the key off, and let it sit. Wait 10 minutes then restart the engine. Rev it up some and run it until it will idle smoothly again. If the above procedure doesn't cure the "keep the choke in to run" issue, then I'd plan on a carb rebuild.

Regarding going the AZone rebuild direction: Don't be intimidated by the task of a carb rebuild. They AREN'T that complicated - besides, what can you hurt - it already isn't running correctly? I'd suggest if the spray doesn't do the trick, then you should give the rebuild task a go, consider it an opportunity to 'bond' with your ol' beast !

Ahhhh, yes,,,,, the joys of owning a 40+ year old gasoline-powered vehicle!

BarnieTrk :-X22

BarnieTrk, Thank you for taking the time to write such a thorough answer. I have just replaced the fuel pump/filter, and rubber hoses. I have also tried the carb cleaner so I guess I know what I need to do. Thank you all again! Jazz

Good. I'm happy you're going for it.
Know that if you get into a pickle, or confused about it, post your concern here and I'm sure someone here will be able to "walk you around the potholes".

Keep us posted with how it goes for you.
There are some that aren't as brave as you and need to hear about your experience and successful rebuild.

BarnieTrk :-X22

The carter YFA that most of us have on our 240s and 300s is kinda a mixed blessing. This carb always seems to work no mater how worn out or junky it is. Though they never ever seem to run right at all.

I have this on my 85 F150 and I have it set up with a manual choke. I need to use a small amount of choke to get it started if it is 50f or colder out. Though it starts fine at -35F in january on the first try. The thing is you need to warm up the engine a bit before the carb can properly vaporize the fuel. So using the choke as a starting tool is ok. It is why they designed it.

I do belive your cable is binding in the liner. A good shot of WD40 will improve the issue significantly for a few weeks. I just squirt some on both ends and pull it in and out a few times. A more permanant solution would be to pull the cable out and lube it up with some grease. That will last a few years. Also try taping the accelerator while pushing the choke in as sometimes the fast idle cam binds up a bit. I honestly think you just have an old truck that has its knack that you have to learn. I can start my trucks on -35F days in one or two cranks. The wife has trouble in july as she dont know the correct pumps or pulls of the various cables. Find what it needs and run with it.