Heater Shut-Off Valve
 

My 55 has the recirculating heater & defroster and since it's hotter than you know what, I would like to shut-off the water going to my heater but I'll be darned if I can locate the darn shut-off valve. My engine is a 223 6 cyl. I looked at where the 2 hoses are coming from the block but could not find anything. Also, what is the correct amp fuse for the heater switch; 10 amp? Many thanks.

You may not have a water shut off valve on your hoses. But you can install one pretty easy. It would go on the intake manifold and connect to the heater hose. It's a simple gate valve you can turn off by hand. Check Sac Vintage Ford for one like this:

http://www.vintageford.com/Products/08299.jpg

http://www.vintageford.com/sect_sear...=Heater- Parts

P/N 08299

15 amps on the heater switch fuse if you are still running 6 Volt. It may even need a 20 if the motor brushes are worn. But try the 15 first.

Thank you very much. I will look into getting one; need to determine which hose is the entry that initially goes into the heater. Since the fuse was busted between the switch and power source, I put a jumper wire and turned on the blower motor to see if it worked. It turned slow but after I turned off the switch, the alligator clip was really hot! Doesn't seem right so maybe something else is going on.

The hose coming from the intake manifold flows into the heater and should be connected (but may not be) to the lower inlet. The hose connecting the heater to the water pump nipple is the outlet and should be on the top heater tube.

Is this the two position pull switch or a rheostatic turn knob type switch? And, are you still running 6 volt on your truck? It's not unusual for a jumper wire to get hot like that. They are usually only 18 AWG - pretty small to be pulling 15 amps through - especially if you only pulled the switch out to the first detent. And even more if you have converted to 12 volt and still have a 6 volt heater motor and switch - that's a no no!

Like I said, you may end up having to go up to a 20 amp fuse - but try the 15 first.

Thanks again Julie. My truck is 6 volt and it's a 2 position switch. I'll try the 15 amp first and see what happens. Come to think of it, I bet you think I'm pretty silly messing with the heater switch in this Florida heat!:)

and until you can find a true valve, you can clamp the hose coming out of the engine closed.. same as the valve does..

Sam

Years back I just went to the local parts store (NAPA) and got a manual valve that fit inline in the hose. I split the hose and just put it in with a couple of hose clamps. It could be hooked up to a cable, but I just open it in the fall and close it in the spring. I can't remember what truck it was for, but maybe a Ford from the 60's or early 70's. You probably can find something for $15-$20.

I got this at a swap meet; it is Ford P/N C3UZ18495A (Motorcraft YG133)

Fits: 1961/72 F100/1100. Some big trucks thru 1991.
(info courtesy of NumberDummy)

https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...id=206139&.jpg

Not silly at all. When I was in Florida, I actually had to use the defroster alot because of the humidity!

The valve Ross showed is a nice one too. You just need to run a cable for it to make it remote from the cab (unless you have a four knob set up with a temp control cable already)

Thanks to all for the help. I wish I had the Magig Air System but only have 2 knob set-up. Hopefully I will have some time this evening and install the new fuse. I'll let you know how I made out. Thanks again!

Your blower motor could be tight. You might take it out and turn the motor by hand to see if it is or not. If it is take it apart and clean it and then lube it. I have had a lot of experience with heaters and if you put current to a tight motor you will burn things up.

You can add a third cable for the valve that won't look too cheezy - just get a stock choke cable and mount it under the dash next to the heater controls with an under dash mount metal holder thingy. Like this one I rigged for my fender vent:

Attachment 24764

My 54 V-8 has a shut off valve like the one Julie showed right on the block where the hose is connected. I would think that a 6-cyl would have the same on the block...

This is exactly what Ford did with 1965/66 trucks with the Economy Fresh Air heater (that was not cable operated).

C5TZ18495A .. Heater Water Manually Operated Shut-Off Valve~Splices into the input to heater core heater hose (Motorcraft YG130) / Obsolete

Last MSRP: $15.74 / Dealer net cost: $7.87.

JST AUTOMOTIVE in Lebanon TN has ONE - 615-443-3086.

ANTIQUE AUTO SUPPLY in Arlington TX has ONE - 817-275-2381,

PARTS INTERNATIONAL in Farmers Branch TX has FOUR = 888-727-0418.

KINSEL L/M in Beaumont TX has FOUR = 800-816-2894.

GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has SEVEN = 800-543-4959.

I know that KINSEL sells obsolete parts at their last MSRP. What the others charge, I dunno.
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The Deluxe Fresh Air heater is cable operated on these trucks, uses the C3UZ18495A heater water valve that is noted and pictured by Ross in post #8.

This valve is still available from Ford. MSRP: $38.46 // FTE Ford Dealer Parts Dept sponsor PARTSGUYED.COM price: $23.08.

PartsGuyEd.com = Ed Olson, parts manager of Horizon Ford in Seattle WA
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Julie, that emblem on your heater looks just like the one used on 1949/50 Ford passenger cars w/a horn ring.

Hi Julie. I tried the 15 amp and it blew in about 2 seconds-I will be trying a 20 amp tomorrow.

Steve. I'm betting you have something else going on with the blower motor. You didn't say how big your jumper wire was but if the alligator clip got hot and you blew a 15 amp fuse that fast something is not right. May need to do like said above and pull motor apart and check everything out. Clean it up and lubricate it. I have little knowledge with these heaters but have rebuilt many small motors. There are several members on here that will help you figure it out. I know Julie has rebuilt several from some past threads I have read.

Good Eye Bill, that's exactly what it is - a chrome horn button off a 49 Ford - fits perfect and even has Stars on it (like for a 5 Star Cab - well maybe) No one was making the caps/emblems at the time so I had to get creative.

Yep, ouch on the fuse. Is this a stock heater motor? You know it's 6 volt right? So is the switch if it's stock. Are yo still running the stock 6 volt electrical system on your 55? If not you'll either need to install 12 volt (if you have converted to 12 volt electrical) motor and matched switch, or try and find a Voltage reducer someplace. I used to recommend "Vol-ta-drop" for that, and that is how my heater power is configured, but they don't make them any more (might find one someplace dusty on a shelf).

If you still have a 6 volt electrical system, then yes there is something binding the motor or causing it to drag- might just be shot.

So three questions for you: Are you running a 6 volt positive ground electrical system or a 12 volt negative ground electrical system. Second, how many wires are ther coming out of your heater motor? And third, one wire runs to ground - do you have a really good, clean ground? Lots of rust and corrosion in those old heaters. (try running a jumper from the ground wire out to the grounding battery post then run it again just to test).

Bill, I was not using a jumper wire this time ratherit was an in-line fuse rated at 30 amps (12 gauge wire). After I made the connections, I turned on the switch and then the fuse blew. I agree about the heater motor and will probably tear into it a little later. Thanks. Steve

Hi Julie. Although the heater box looks stock, I can;t be 100% sure if the motor is 6 or 12 volts. I am still running 6 volt positive ground and since the previous owner was into complete originality, I am assuming the heater motor is 6 volts. I will have to look and see how many wires are coming out of the heater. I do know the there are 3 from the switch. I will also check the ground wire. When I initially turned it on, I could hear the motor turning for a few seconds before the fuse went. Thanks and I will report back when I can check out the wire. I think I will hold off trying a higher amp fuse for the momment and see what's going on with the motor. Thanks. Steve

Th evoltage is probably ok then. I'd be leaning more toward the thing needing a few drops of oil/cleaning/new brushes, or your ground is really bad on it. Maybe all of the above. Lots of corrosion/electrolysis in the old heaters.

Heater Motor Update
 

I changed to the fuse to 20 amp and pulled the switch to high. Although the motor was turning between slow & fast, I could also hear thumping noise so I shut it off. The fuse held but the wire was warm. Time to clean the motor but since I have never tackled something like this before, I would like some guidance. I checked the wires going to the motor and the connection and ground wire on the firewall. They look new to me; even the back of the motor from the firewall looks so clean. Is there a way to pull just the motor without having to drain the system? Thanks.

OK if the 20 amp breaker held and the motor turned slow and had noises, then you don't have any gross electrical problems mismatches or shorts, you have something holding onto your blower "Squirrel Cage" or impeding rotation of the motor shaft - dry maybe. That's causing a strain on the motor and pulling extra amps trying to get it going - thus the heat. Could be a seal rubbing or the cage has come loose. But I think if you take it apart and clean it, oil it, and make sure the cage is on "square" it should be ok. Responded to your other post btw. Worst case brushes are shot and need a new motor - easy while you have it apart.

Take a pic of yor heater and post it so we will know what kind it is and can help you get it apart.

Thanks Julie. That's what I'm thinking as well and wil post a picture shortly. My set-up is the recirculating system that has only 2 knobs (1 for the blower and the other of defroster); it's not the "Magic Air" system. It has the heater box where the hoses connect to and a shroud connected to the left where the air exits through vents to the floor and also through the top when the defroster knob is pulled. I'll get some photos soon when I get back from brunch. My family is taking me out for Father's Day. By-the-way, Happy Father's Day to the other F100 Dads out there!

Heater Picture
 

Julie, here is the photo of my heater/defroster set-up. This is the recirculating heater the has 2 controls...2 speed fan switch and defroster knob. Hopefully this motor will be pretty easy to remove.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...231502.520.390

Yep a stock recirc heater. You should have no trouble finding a replacement motor for that is need be.

Let us know what you find once you get it apart.

I was able to remove to motor this evening and everything looked pretty clean to include inside the compartment. I spun the cage fan and it made a few rotations. After oiling the shaft and letting run into the bearings (there was no removal cap in the back or anywhere for oil), I spinned it again and it already seemed to spin with ease. I took it to my bench and put 6 volts to it from a spare battery and it spinned really good and quiet..no thumping. Installed it back in the casing, buttoned everything up and turned on the switch....nice quite motor on both low and high speed. Of course, high speed with 6 volts isn't that much! The only thing that still has me puzzled is why my wire going to the switch and my in-linje fuse holder is still warm??? :confused: All wires going to the heater I beleive are either 12 or 14 gauge and the ground is good, clean, and tight. I am using a 20 amp fuse. Maybe the amps this motor draws may create a little warmth in the wires.

On the low speed there's a resistance from the switch, that may be doing it. 12 AWG should be fine. 14 is a bit small for 6 volt. My switch gets hot too if I have it on a lower setting.

Thanks Julie. One thing I did notice is that power to the switch is wired directly to a hot source, that is, I can turn it on without the key being on start or accessory mode. Probably doesn't matter but I will have to be mindful of this and be sure it's turned off when the truck is shut-down. I wounder how many amps this motor draws?