Door rattle when driving, fixes?
 

So my driver side rear door has enough play in it to make a rattle when driving.

When closed I can duplicate the sound by pressing it in and out a little, all the doors have play but this one makes a little noise, which turns into an annoying rattle when driving.

Question #1: I was thinking about moving the body mounted latch inboard to tighten it up a little, but fear I am only going to make the doors sit in too much and just speed up trim compression. Good idea or bad?

Question #2: I have read other posts about slipping 1/4" or so tubing into the existing gaskets/trim. Would this create a better seal an push out the trim to where it should be?

I would pursue it all corners if it helps.

Let me know your thoughts.

i did the door seal mod with 3/8 tube. worked great

Check for a broken frame.

If it is broken, door has to be removed and rewelded with a spot welder.

Broken frames are pretty common on Fords.

i would doubt it is. these tend to do exactly what he is describing and can easily be fixed.
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My rattle was related to a loose bolt on the drivers window assembly. I pulled the interior panel off, found one REALLY loose and tightened all the bolts for good measure.

Quite ever since. Might check that first, as it's much easier than the door seal mod.

same play
 

I have similar play in my rear doors (even a little in the fornt doors). Been wanting to do the 3/8 tubing mod but just haven't gotten around to it.

Do you need to cut the current seal to insert the tubing?

Other threads usggest only adding the tubing at the latches.

Dwight

i didnt cut anything. i did the entire seal

excursion :: fixed.flv video by ejstab - Photobucket



i have been havin a rattle out of the two rear doors. i have tried adjusting both the pin and the latch with no luck so her is what i ended up doing
i got some 3/8 od fish tank type hose from the local hardware for $.25/ft. i got 30 ft for 2 doors.
first remove the sill panel. it just clips on.

then mark the split in the seal. remove seal. it just pulls off.

i didnt have a fish tape so Nut brouoght me by some 10ga hard wire. i used soapy water as lube and inserted the wire. taped it to the tube and pulled it through keeping it soapy.

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Rep's given for a great pictorial....:-X22

Did the fix to the two back doors, twice!

Both vinyl tube and foam backer rod, would definitely suggest foam backer rod.

I did the tubing and it just seemed like it was crushing the tubing, harder toi close of the two and wehn I went to unlatch it there was a harsh disengagement of the latch. Drove it around for a while and all but the major bumps are rattle free.

Uncomfortable about the amount of tension from the tubing I switched to the foam backer rod. Much better seal IMHO. Door closes with a nice feel, provides enough tension to keep the rattles out and seems quieter, but that just might be me choosing a winner.

Either way, incredible thanks to everyone on this as I would have screwed with the latches, etc.

Next I will tackle the rear hatch and front doors and let everyone know my results.

Thanks for the update consol.:-X22

I have a pair of subs in the barn doors and have gotten rid of most of the rattles. I think the backer rod may finish it off.

I'm not sure where you live, but if you have extreme cold temps you may need to switch to latex tubing, that will stay flexible in colder climates.

Foam
 

What do yo mean by Foam Backer Rod?

Got a picture and/or where did you get the stuff? sizes, etc.?

TNX, Dwight

Probably this

3/8 Backer Rod Per 100 Feet [SEACC3/8] - $8.00 : Contractors Tool Supply, Tools, Fasteners, Levels, Anchors for the Construction Industry

Yep. Found something similar (and cheaper) online at Lowes.

Consol - Did you do the entire length or just areas near the latch?

Did you have any problem getting into the weather stripping?

TNX.