Installing aftermarket HIDs using the upfitter switches
 

After driving my 2010 F350 for a few weeks, I thought the lighting could be better. I live in a fairly rural area with a lot animals, and not a lot of traffic. Since I had access to these 4" HID lights at work, I decided to install 4 on the truck. I machined some mounting brackets that attach the lights to the frame in any of the 4 positions.

http://trailtech.net/images/hid/web/1_lights_w750.jpg

This post details the mounting and wiring of aftermarket HID lights using the upfitter switches on the 2010 Ford F350.

It is best to remove the stock fog lights and replace them with the bright aftermarket lights. Oncoming traffic will flash less if they can't immediately determine the lights are custom. In any case, the 2010 F350 comes from the factory with four mounting positions, as shown in the photo below.

http://trailtech.net/images/hid/web/2010_F350_HID.jpg

http://trailtech.net/images/hid/web/...ation_w750.jpg

Items needed: Two or four HID lights, brackets, and wires to run from top of engine compartment to the front bumper, bullet connectors (or similar), and a self tapping screw.

The 4 Upfitter Switches:
These switches are (almost) pre-wired from the factory for this purpose. This post details using the AUX1 and AUX2 switches to control two sets of HID lights mounted to the front bumper.

http://trailtech.net/images/hid/web/2_switches_w750.jpg

Wiring Inside the Cab:
There are two bundles of wire under the dashboard by the parking brake: One beginning near the parking brake that runs through the firewall into the engine compartment, the other running towards the center of the dash to the switches.

http://trailtech.net/images/hid/web/...rdash_w750.jpg

For each switch you will use, you need to connect the switch wire to a wire from the firewall bundle. The above photo shows two switches being connected. The switch wire will have +12v when the switch is turned on. Use a multimeter or test light to find the correct wire for each switch. The firewall wires are color coded individually. When you connect to a firewall wire, note it’s color for the next step.

Wiring Under the Hood:
Pop the hood open. In the top of the engine compartment near the driver, find the other end of the firewall wire bundle. Find the wires that were connected in Step 2. These will be your +12v source for the lights. Connect an extension to the wire coming through the firewall, and route it to your lights. If connecting two lights to one switch, you will need to Y this extension wire to go to each light.

I wouldn’t recommend connecting more than two lights to a single switch!

http://trailtech.net/images/hid/web/...wires_w750.jpg

Remove Stock Lights, Replace:
http://trailtech.net/images/hid/web/5_mounts_w750.jpg

Route the Wires Along Frame:
http://trailtech.net/images/hid/web/6_ziptie_w750.jpg

Frame Ground:
Find an acceptable position in the metal frame where all of the ground wires from the lights will reach. Drill a small starter hole. Using a self-tapping screw, mount the lights’ black wire leads to the frame, grounding them.

http://trailtech.net/images/hid/web/...round_w750.jpg

2 Stock Halogen Fog Lights:
Notes: Good for foggy conditions. From the factory, cannot work with high-beams. Does not offend on-coming traffic. Does not throw light far enough ahead to help with medium to high speed driving.

http://trailtech.net/images/hid/web/...ckfog_w750.jpg

2 HID Spot Lights:
Notes: Recommended. Throws light far ahead, punches into darkness. Helps with high-speed driving. Spot lights do not spill to sides and up high, minimizing blinding effect for oncoming traffic. In tight conditions other drivers will see these lights coming around corners long before you arrive. Not road legal, but tested in traffic without any oncoming drivers “flashing.”

http://trailtech.net/images/hid/web/9_HIDspot_w750.jpg

2 HID Flood Lights:
Notes: Flood lights throw light in a large cone generally ahead of the truck, but they will not reach as far ahead as spot lights. Will offend oncoming traffic; switch off for oncoming traffic or risk blinding them. Not road legal.

http://trailtech.net/images/hid/web/...flood_w750.jpg

2 HID Spot and 2 HID Flood Lights:
Notes: Create daylight conditions at night. See extremely sharp and clearly - long, wide, and high. Nobody will miss your arrival. Flood lights need to be switched off when oncoming traffic is approaching. Not road legal.

http://trailtech.net/images/hid/web/...flood_w750.jpg

WOW! That is awesome!!

TrailTech, first of all welcome to FTE. Secondly, this is a very professional installation and excellent write-up - reps to you for both.

Very nice look and write up. Now, if you were like the rest of us we don't have them laying around at work so do you have any idea where they can be purchased? Again, thanks for the write up.

Thanks for the comments.
I just drove from western Washington (Vancouver) to Southern Utah (Moab area) ~1200 miles. Both out and back, the drive was straight thru. Lots of running at night. Condition ranged from clear/rain/snow/sleet..... The worse the conditions got, the better the lights worked. Good lights become addictive, without them you feel like you cannot see. Only in heavy snow did the lights reflection from the snow become an issue. Also, in the middle of the night, out of populated areas, some of the long-haul truckers recognized these lights as "not-stock" and occasionally did flash.

I only made two sets of the mounting brackets. As the lights are made for motorcycles/ATV's, I do not expect they will ever be a production product.

These

A very nice installation!