Air Cleaner Vacuum Routing?
 

I have a 77 F100 2wd with a 73 302 and a rebuilt 73 Motorcraft 2100 carb. The air cleaner is stock off a 75 302. I have spent alot of time searching here and looking thru my books. I think I have the vacuum lines routed correctly with one question. The snorkel has a vacuum motor that opens and closes an air flap door and when I hook vacuum to it it closes.
I have read where the hose should go to a switch on the air cleaner and then to a delay valve before connecting to the air cleaner. The delay valves listed in LMC are different colors and prices. My air cleaner has a metal sensor in the bottom where a hose hooks into and out of. This seems to stop the vacuum, so I'm assuming it's not working. There is a plastic 2 connector switch on the side of the aircleaner that is broken. I am not running smog at all, just trying to make the necessary connections for it to look and perform correctly.
There is also a hole behind the snorkel which I believe to be for the connection from the charcoal canister with an aluminum tube. I have not been able to find that connector or see exactly what it should look like.
My question is what do I need to make the snorkel work corretcly? There is no heat shield or risor tube as my truck has headers. Would a tube alone bring enough heat up from the headers to help open the valve in the snorkle?
I found some of the parts numbers from old posts, (thanks to NumberDummy) but wondering what is necessary.
Lots of questions, I know. Thanks for the help.

Put one of these on it! :-dancing1

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...500_AA280_.jpg

They flow better, look better, and you obviously aren't trying to keep it stock.! :-drink

JMHO!

Even though my post sounds like an old Jonny Cash song, I am trying to keep the truck stock. At least what I can without major unnecessary costs. I bought the truck with one of those open air cleaners and the first thing I did was get rid of it. I prefer original.
If I connect the vacuum hose directly to the snorkel valve, will the door still open as the engine heats up? Even without the shield and tube?

Wrong.

They have more value in scrap price than on an engine.

No, without the sensor, the vacuum will keep the flap closed.

The sensor is a bi-metallic strip that open as the engine heats up, cutting off vacuum going to the snorkel so the air can be sourced from outside where it's cooler than the stove under the hood.

Dunno if you can find replacement parts...look around.

If his stove pipe is gone, there is no need for this system as it will just pull air from right under the air cleaner arm-not warmed air around the exhaust manifold. If your gonna leave the headers, then I wouldn't worry about these parts.