Electrical Glitches / Electrical / Electronic Diagnostics / Fixes Thread.
 

MASTER RESET OF ALL COMPUTERS ON BOARD ---- BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING ELSE, DO THIS:


CEL / Wrench On? Mysterious Problem?

Disconnect battery, turn on headlight switch, turn dimmer on max, wait 30 minutes.


Charge battery full, load test battery, if it pass, reconnect.

Log voltages at battery terminal, include standing, KOEO, Glow plugs on / off, Cranking, and running.

If voltage is not at least 14v after 10 minutes of running --- you got a problem.


Resetting computers will mean rough shifting transmission as it has to relearn its programming.


Read codes and log it, verify that codes are not "critical" code!

Clear CEL codes.

See if problems go away.

If not, log the conditions under which the codes return (ambient temp, engine temp, etc.) and repeat above procedure for several cycles and then post about it.


"Take 2 aspirins and call me in the morning"

or:

Reset it, use fresh, load tested, fully charged batteries, clear the codes, and call me in the morning.


===============================================

Before you do anything else.


Hook up a Voltmeter with a good response rate to the Cigarette lighter (which is powered from the Power Control Module) and see what voltage actually is.

Don't just rely on the instrument panel gauge --- it is not accurate enough and if there is low voltage, the PCM shuts down the instrument panel!

For a real reading, read the voltage at the Battery terminal ONLY.



See:


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ml#post8258895




If you experience an Instrument Cluster total failure (no gauges, etc. working at all)


Simple fix: Turn headlight on for a few minutes and see if it clears.


Cause: bad / weak relay for the panel.

Swap out the suspect defective / weak relay with another one.

If the relay is "weak" but not dead, moving it to a less heavily used circuit often cures both problems without having to buy a new relay --- even though they are cheap.


Another Cause: Power Control Module shut off power --- because of low voltages (bad alternator, battery, etc.)


More causes... cabling, corrosion --- see below.





If that doesn't work (or the problem comes back).... then:

-------------------------------------------


There have been discussion of mysterious issues with the instrument panel of my very high mileage (260,000mile) 2005 Ford E series with a 6.0 PSD.

Here are the symptoms:

A) Illumination Bulbs in the instrument panel go off (some, not all), so only part of certain gauges are illuminated.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...-question.html


B) Brake warning light coming on, then mysteriously going off on its own, apparently not related to the parking brake switch.


There are 3 major possibilities:

- parking / emergency brake switch bad

- vacuum leak / pump bad --- diesels use a booster pump for power brakes

- hydraulic fluid leak in system or bad sensor at the master cylinder

Or combination of above.

If brakes generally work properly -- that rules out vacuum leak. Otherwise, seek out a vacuum leak between the vacuum pump and the brake booster or the brake booster itself.


Drive the car, hit the emergency / parking brake... if you hear a chime that goes off when you take off the parking brake - it is probably not the parking brake switch.


That leaves the hydraulic switch.

If you are not losing fluid, it can be an internal leak inside the master cylinder --- the switch will sense a differential in pressure and treat that as a failure like running out of fluid.



https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...5-6-0-psd.html



C) Battery / Alternator light coming on, flickering then going out.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...-question.html


D) Complete instrument panel power failure (all gauges dead)


See this thread: It can be caused by alternator failure, leading to low voltage, and the Power Control Module shutting the panel down.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ster-died.html



E) Interior accessories all going Funky


See this thread with video, and fix:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...l-problem.html




Alternator / Charging System Insufficient Voltage will cause the Power Control Module to Kill Instrument Panel.


For diagnosis of Alternator troubles... particularly bad wiring at alternator vs. bad alternator, see this link

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...-charge-2.html


For diagnosis and fix of the bad wiring at alternator, see this post:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ml#post8259862


Alternator wire pigtail going bad as a possibility rather than outright alternator failure:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...periences.html


Testing the 6G alternator - do you have a ECM managed alternator or plain old fashioned alternator?


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...or-no-ecm.html


A really tricky problem where the battery / charging voltage is low for the first few minutes, then it mysteriously clear up:

Often this occur with alternator light flickering.


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...s-running.html

Key issue there: very clean battery terminals, and also, possible diode shorted in alternator that cause alternator to test "good" but don't work.










E) Partial gauge (RPM / Speedo) gauge flutter / failure

See:

Wildly inaccurate speedo and tach readings - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

Note there is a TSB on this --- see thread.


F) ABS Warning Light intermittently on or on:


Here is a TSB: Note the wiring fix...

06-7-6***ABS LIGHT ON AND POSSIBLE DTCS C1175, C1236, P0500, P0503





G) Flasher / light not flashing


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...sistently.html




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For those of you who follow these posts, many people have had these problems, and many $$$ and hours have been spent fixing it.




----------------------------------------------------------------------

I do not know if this is a real "fix" as only time will tell.

However, on an interim basis, I am pleased to say, the problem for me has, at least, disappeared for now.


Here are the fixes:


A) Completely disassemble / remove dashboard and instrument panel

Clean all dust / dirt, etc. behind panel with vacuum and compressed air blower.

This will eliminate future problems --- like a piece of conductive dust shorting something.




B) Light bulb issue.

If your vehicle has spent a lot of hours with the instrument panel bulbs on, or are high mileage --- read vibration, etc.

Here is the light bulb problem:

The instrument panel contains 2 types of bulbs on mine.

White / Ivory base mini bulbs that are #37, and a smaller Grey based bulb is #73 bulb --- easily and readily available at any auto parts store.


One bulb had apparently been not installed at the factory or had fallen out entirely. Solution: Ford replacement: $$$


Many of the bulb bases / holders are molded with a plastic that has deteriorated over time presumably with use (heat from bulb) and vibration.

This result in the bulb base metal flange that secure the bulb base to the PCB instrument panel is widened / spread so that the bulb is loose, and / or, no longer making proper contact with the panel.

This is what is causing part of instrument panel to not light, or alternatively, flicker.



SOLUTION:

Take the bulb base out, and then use needle nose pliers to squeeze the metal flange together again so it grips the PCB tightly.

If the plastic base is really bad, replace it.

Good idea to replace the bulbs at the same time --- they are probably past their design life if this has happened.

Clean the PCB circuit board the bulbs plug into with circuit board spray.


Once this is done, reinstall the bulbs, and make sure that all of them work before reinstalling the instrument panel.



C) Battery / Alternator Warning Light

Symptoms are the light will flicker on right after a start, but then goes out.

It does not STAY ON.

While it is possible to have this caused by weak alternator (check alternator output / voltage and battery problems.

It can be corrosion at alternator, connection to PCM, etc.

This also can be related to Power Control Module detecting low voltage and shutting system down one by one. See Complete Instrument Panel Power Failure Above.


If those things check out, do this:

R&R the 2 instrument panel connectors at the panel, and also at the left side where the harnesses ultimately end up and plug into the car.

CLEAN the connectors with circuit cleaner spray.

Jiggle the connectors to work rust / corrosion out of it.

Repeat CLEANING with circuit board cleaner.

Then reinstall either "dry" or with (or without) dielectric grease to prevent corrosion.


This eliminated my alternator light flicker problem (for now).



D) Parking Brake Light

Light would mysteriously come on, and then go off again, repeated application of parking brake and release while driving sometimes "cleared" it, but the giveaway that it is NOT the parking brake switch is that the chime that warns of parking brake engaged while driving does not come on unless the parking brake is really engaged.

That means your Parking Brake switch is OK --- If chime comes on with parking brake disengaged and car driving... check switch and replace.

It is the vibration and shock that is "clearing" the bad connection.


Follow instructions in (C) above, and this problem also goes away.

Be sure you clean contacts and grease them at the box where the instrument panel connector goes into (on side of kick panel or thereabouts.


E) Complete Instrument Panel Power Failure or Partial (2 gauges related like Speedo and Tach)


Clean the harness where it plugs into engine computer.

In the case of 2 gauges that are related failing --- trace the harness all the way to the source of the signals like engine computer, clean all harness / connectors on the way, grease them with dielectric grease


F) ABS Light comes on

If it turns itself off by itself --- follow instructions for Brake Light above.


Also --- clean / test / check all ABS wiring, especially the wires going to wheel etc. sensors and also the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) on the transmission. That is your most likely problem.

Do not replace sensors without trying to clean / grease wires first and see if good contact fixes problem.


See this TSB:

06-7-6***ABS LIGHT ON AND POSSIBLE DTCS C1175, C1236, P0500, P0503




G) Flasher


See info in that thread...

Major change is to check outside bulbs for proper contact / corrosion.



Not sure if this is relevant, but the failure seem to come on with cold weather (below freezing), which suggest connectors become cold (shrink) and then contact problems appear.

Can be related to snow, moisture, salt air coming back to cabin interior.









Lessons learned:

If your truck is used in a high mileage, high humidity / salt / corrosion environment. This is a major problem area.

How to tell if this is probably an issue?

Remove the anti-dive trim panel on the drivers or passenger side and look at the steel parts that make up the instrument panel and supports.

If you see they are badly rusted --- your vehicle have had a lot of moisture / corrosion in it in the past.

Chances are, you are having problems with rust / corrosion in the electrical system.

If you have had to replace things like burnt out light bulbs at the climate control switches (2 in mine), that says your car has had a lot of hours with them on ---- another giveaway that this might be an issue.


My fix here is a lot cheaper than replacing alternators and batteries.

Plus, it cured the problem cold..... or at least.. .for now.

Stay tuned.. more on this coming soon.



Recommendation to FORD:

A) The "Grey" and "White" mini instrument panel bulb bases are not holding up --- use a better grade of plastic or redesign it or both.


B) Use dielectric grease to lower corrosion on all connectors.


C) Use longer life bulbs!



In closing... let me thank everyone that responded to my previous posts and helped out!





Additional Information:


Alternator Output / Battery Voltage


Corrosion at Alternator connection / Harness.

This is a long standing problem. Leads need to be carefully examined for cracked connector, contacts.


Corrosion at Main Power Distribution Box


Check the main cable coming in, clean, and also for corroded fuses.. etc.



Corrosion at Battery Terminals / Damaged / Corroded Battery Cables


Corrosion at Battery to Starter Solenoid.

Battery Basics:

Follow this link to a post:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ml#post8269315



When it gets real cold:

Battery Tenders (trickle charger and battery warmer mats).

Why this really helps when it dips to -20F or more.


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...d-weather.html




Solar powered battery trickle charger tops up battery --- especially for vehicles parked in storage outside.


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ml#post8305765




Battery Load Testing:



http://www.e38.org/battery.pdf

Is your battery / alternator / starter wiring the problem?


Use the calculator / data in post to calculate how much voltage you are losing to your cable based on a "perfect" connection, the wire's gauge, and the distance you are running cable.


American Wire Gauge table and AWG Electrical Current Load Limits with skin depth frequencies


From thread about Volt meter and reading voltmeter readings.


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ml#post8306104



Bad Pigtail?

Most common point of failure is the wiring from the harness to the Alternator A (Sense) and I (illumination).

See here for a replacement pigtail from Ford:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ml#post8782257

Some good info, gearloose-thanks!

Voltage Drop testing:

Voltage Drop Testing



Voltage Gauge Installation Notes:


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...-question.html

Where / How to install a voltmeter, how to get voltage readings from different locations (alternator output tap, battery terminal, etc.) and quality of information.



Daytime Running Lights

This "feature" turns on the headlights during the day (when normal lights off) at 80% voltage.

However, since the law was passed, manufacturers now routinely meet the requirements by having side marker lights (much lower wattage) or even just low wattage driving lights instead of having the regular headlights on.


If you predominantly do short driving, operate in cold weather, and use the 120 second glow plug cycle at least once to the max. time or more, DRL just drains enough power to kill your batteries.

Turning off the DRL is the best way to extend the life of your batteries.

There is absolutely no reason to have DRLs on while your vehicle is warming up --- when the alternator could be charging the battery.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ml#post8241267




--------------------------




Fuel Injection Control Module FICM Failures caused by low voltage.


Use this link for the testing procedure, there are additional links on how to repair them.


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...procedure.html


Here is an idea I have (not implemented, soliciting ideas and engineering) to eliminate this problem once and for all:


Dedicated, Regulated, Regulated, Computer Grade power supply for FICM with its own Battery Backup:


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ml#post8307366




Fuel Gauge Problem - Bad wiring inside fuel sender unit fixed:


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...op-tank-3.html

Question...why are you posting this stuff...is someone asking you for it? I'm just wondering because it apperars you are just randomly filling up the server with info that most will just research and find themselves. Its good that you are resourceful, but who was asking for it...perhaps you could just PM the info to them...saves most of us looking at your post when usually we are wanting to share or assist with Known problem, issues, concerns, or ideals. Thanks. ;)

Great information! Hopefully this will be set as a sticky.

Well, I am posting solutions as I find them.

My conclusion is the Fords are great vehicles, but the electrical gremlins that come with corrosion and age is... troublesome.

So these solutions are intended to ultimately, be a ready to use "fixits" to kill off the electrical problems.



Figure that there is not a shelf space issue with the server and it means I have access to it wherever I am.

But will make a point of not adding to this thread and doing edits to add material so you don't run into it.

Regards.

Subscribing.

Good thread, reps sent. :-X22

The way you consolidated things will be useful in the future for people doing searches. They'll stumble on this thread which has multiple suggestions for multiple issues all in the same place.

General Wiring Tuneup:

For trucks with wiring older than 2 years, this is a general "tune up" that can identify faults in contacts etc. that might be the real problem.


Parts replacement artist note: often, a DTC tell you to replace XYZ part, and as you R and R the old part and install new, you are wiggling and moving the connectors, fixing electrical contact problems.

Often this means tossing out a perfectly good part.

I have benched tested sensors and other parts like alternators that test fine on the bench --- and traced the problem to wiring.

Tricky === sometimes the wiring fault, especially for alternators, is internal === very hard to nail down and cheaper to just toss in a new alternator.

But, if you are going to be tossing parts, check for bad contact with these instructions first.

I am doing a comprehensive vehicle refurb this summer --- by basically doing this to every single subsystem.



Methodically, module by module, sensor by sensor, connector by connector,

Unplug the connector

Clean contacts on both sides with circuit cleaner.

If the female end of the connector is sort of flaky, tighten / bend it until it makes a hard, tight fit.

Grease the connector with dielectric grease.

Verify that the wire crimp is making good contact.

Verify no obvious breaks, chafs in wiring as far as you can follow wire.

Reconnect it. Make sure it is tight --- and wiring is nicely tied down to prevent vibration from loosening it.

If it is a sensor or other module, ensure that it is well grounded --- remove and clean and grease as needed.

If in doubt.. TEST with VTVM for resistance / voltage to ensure good contact.


Do this for every single contact, connection, and you will end up with a brand new electrical system equivalent.,


I have concluded that much of the 6.0 faults (codes etc.) are from bad contacts and not necessarily a real fault.

If that is the case, cleaning and repairing the wiring, clearing the code and resetting the boxes will make the problem go away.

Always check for bad wiring and contacts before you start slapping on new sensors / parts.

i think both those write-ups should be added to the tech folder, if not there already. sure saves alot of time trying to find the info on the intenet.......but i'm lazy that way.

WOOHOO!! Heres to being lazy :-partybud :-D

Great Write Up Gearloose1... Thanks for your input :-drink

Hey -- get Maximum to clean up the thread a bit --- then there is less junk to plow through.. like thumbs!

Right tools, Volt and Amp Meter - Clamp on Type
 

In order to do the work I am prescribing, you got to have the right tools.

Do you, or any of the "average user" have a Clamp type DC Ammeter / Volt / Ohm Meter?


They look like this:


http://exphil.com/images/products/Extech/380947.jpg


Typically, can be had for $100 or so:

Amazon.com: Extech MA120 200 Ampere AC/DC Mini Clamp on Current Detector: Home Improvement



The reason a clamp type has to be used is typically, your cheap Volt / Ohm Meter can only measure very small DC currents.

The clamp type measure by inductance, and can handle amperage all the way up to... hundreds of amps (not starting current... )




What amaze me is to see the number of people on this site that are tossing $$$ thousands on tunes, mufflers, etc. when they wouldn't spend $100 on a cheap VOM.


Good quality ones cost maybe $300:

Amazon.com: Extech 380947 400 Ampere True RMS AC/DC Mini Clamp on Meter with High Current Resolution: Home Improvement

And will measure up to 400 amp in the above case --- i.e. close to 5KVa

That is, 5,000 watt -- which allows starting current draw to be measured on your average 6.0


Tell me who on this site have ever bothered to test their starting CURRENT draw as a way of testing their batteries?



Look at other issues:

I have had codes from turbo underboost, EGR voltage, MAP sensor, etc. and in ALL cases, I resolved it by simply resetting the code.

Now, when it gets warm (it is 15F outside today)..... I am going to go and refurbish every single sensor connector and TEST their connections.

I bet you most of my problems go away.


Co-incidentally, when parts replacement artists rush to throw in new parts, they unplug and replug in a new part, and in doing so, re-establish a good contact where there might be a flakey one....


How many perfectly good parts have been thrown out because of this?


Because not enough "average users" know and care enough or want to buy a basic Volt / Ohm Meter tool that is about as important as owning a ratchet to do diagnostics?

So before you throw parts at something.. check for bad connections, wiring, etc. first.

In order to do that.. you need the right tools.http://exphil.com/images/products/Extech/380947.jpg