Molbil 1 worth it?
 

Always liked this oil. But, My new toy is a '99, 5.4 with 168xxx miles on it.
Would Mobil 1 be a waste of money for this type of wear on a engine?
Runs really good and doesn't show it's miles. But still, it's an old motor and the oil isn't cheap.
Thanks for any thoughts on this.

Oh,, if I do what weight would be recommended for the miles? -thanks

This is just my personal opinion and sure I will get some flack from Mobil1 users. I think you are wasting your money with the Mobil1. You are correct in that it is so expensive. I have almost 126,000 miles on my 2002 Expedition and have been running the Motorcraft Synthetic Blend 5W-20 since day one. I sent a sample into Blackstone Labs and it was suggested I go 7500 miles between changes. I go into my local Walmart and can get the 5qt jug of MC for $11, while the Mobil1 is more than double that at $26. I suppose it is all personal preference, as well. If you are a true believer in the Mobil1, nothing I say will change someone's mind. But, personally, I think you're throwing your money away. Just my $0.02.

Ever since the lawsuit with Castrol a few years back, M1 has not been the true synthetic it used to be. If you want to spend money on a true synthetic, choose something that is like Amsoil. M1 advertising has duped a lot of people, much like K&N air filters. These are not the best products, but have very good advertising campaigns.

Your engine isn't as old as you think. I would be willing to bet it is only half way through its lifespan. My company truck is an F150 with 255k miles on it. Still runs great.

If you are going to run a high quality full synthetic, take advantage of it and extend your drain intervals. That way you offset the cost. Use oil analysis as mentioned above rather than crusty old notions that 3000 mile change intervals are somehow helping your engine. With a quality full synthetic you should easily be able to go 10k between changes, maybe more. I use the Motorcraft semi syn in my truck as well and currently run 5k mile intervals.

Now get ready for the motor oil battle:-X13

"I go into my local Walmart and can get the 5qt jug of MC for $11" - interesting. I need to check into my local for that.
Wife works there and I get the 10% discount. :-wink

They also carry the FL-820S oil filters. For under $20, I can walk out of my Walmart with everything I need to do my own oil & filter changes.

Say what? Where do you come up with information stating M1 is not a full synthetic motor oil?

The post lawsuit "Tri-Synthetic" M1 is no more than a synthetic blend.

Page Title

Which these days is technically a full synthetic, even though it uses crude oils in its base stock. Amsoil and Redline are still full synthetic base stocks not crude based in any way.

In addition, M1 has always been the poorest performing synthetic on the market based on independant tests. I used to own and run a Porsche 928 on the racetrack. It was well known in that community that M1 had contributed to some engine failures at the track. Nobody ever spun a bearing running Amsoil. Several engines did when running M1. It was more than reason enough for me to look into the subject and steer clear of M1.

I'm not disputing your remarks just yet because I haven't had the time to look into this much yet. However, I couldn't help but notice the article in the link you posted reads like an Amsoil promotional ad. Any idea who owns and runs that website?

You should also notice that the article was published in Car and Driver magazine.

I just did a quick google to find that article. The site appears to be owned by an Amsoil dealer.

I did do a fair amount of searching around to try and find some facts more credible than that page. Seems Mobile's own literature is extremely scetchy on the exact make-up of their oils anymore. I know they used to be Group 4 based full synthetics. The new Tri-Syn product, or at least some of the formulations appear to be Group 3 based oils and still called full synthetic as allowed by law now.

Tought to pin down now, used to be crystal clear. That alone throws a red flag for me.

you could always use motorcraft full synthetic. a little cheaper than m1. i have been using it no problem since i hit 100k. change it every 5k, though i'm sure i could go longer. i am going to try amsoil next change just for giggles.

https://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English...Qs.aspx#FAQs22

Is Mobil 1 with SuperSyn Technology a fully synthetic motor oil?

Yes, it is. To meet the demanding requirements of today's specifications (and our customers' expectations), Mobil 1 with SuperSyn uses high-performance fluids, including polyalphaolefins (PAOs), along with a proprietary system of additives. Each Mobil 1 with SuperSyn viscosity grade uses a unique combination of synthetic fluids and selected additives in order to tailor the viscosity grade to its specific application.

Ford isn't about to produce their own synthetic oil. It's more likely Ford's oils are rebranded. Any idea what brand their synthetic really is?

motorcraft s/b is really conoco (76). not sure on the full synthetic though.

I think the main thing as was already said on here is to change your oil and oil filter regularly. What you use is more up to the person who owns the truck. I think the oil filter has more to do with things than a good grade of oil synthetic or dino oil. I do use castrol synthetic but I think I would be fine with a good dino oil, but the filter is another matter. My engine neds aquart of oil every 3,000 miles any way so it could proply go 15,000 miles with out a change. I do like the fact that synthetics stick to parts so you do not have such a dry start up, and it seems to clean really well. I have herd on here of 200,000 on dino oil and more. So if you feel better as I do use synthetic, if you want to save a couple of bucks use a good grade of dino oil, but use a good oil filter, NOT FRAM, AC OR ANY CHAMPION FILTERS. Stick with Motorcraft, Wix I am sure there are others that work just as well. Just for the record I thought spun bearings usually had to do with supply of oil to the bearing, I am not a M1 fan.

Including PAOs, but judging by the relatively poor pour point of -38F (poor when compared to "real" synthetics) I'd hazard a guess that it is mostly group III (hydro cracked dyno) - that being the SuperSyn code name. (this was for their 5w-40 diesel oil) Redline's 5w-40 has a pour point of -49F, RP's 15w-40 is -44F, AMSOIL 5w-40 is -51F.

The process for Group III hyrcrocracked oil was invented in Europe, yet they aren't allowed to call it Synthetic over there. Looks like the consumer in US/Can is being hoodwinked yet again.
A group III oils is vastly superior to a group II oil, but it is by no means a group IV or group V oil. I think the courts did a huge disservice to the consumer by allowing group III to be called synthetic... I think "semi-synthetic" would have been a much more accurate description. That would have differentiated the oil from Group II, but yet not confused it with true synthetics.

The consumer should not require a degree in chemistry to determine what they are really buying.