Characteristics of a bad power steering pump?
 

Other than noise, what are the signs of a bad power steering pump?

Mine does not make noise and seems to work ok but here is my issue.

I have been chasing a front end rattling noise and a wandering issue for a good year now.

Things I have replaced are; swaybar endlinks, swaybar bushings, axle joints, balljoints, hub bearing units, tie rod ends, center link, tires, steering gear box, panhard bar, shocks, and the springs.

I have gone through and checked every bolt and tighned it down. Th noise is a loose rattle sounds that follows suspension movent very closely.

The wandering issue is really pissing me off. I read here that the gear box is many times the cause for wandering and I just replaced that hoping to put the final nail in the coffin on this issue but it has made no difference other than smoother turning.

I have a 99 f-350 with 2000,000 miles on it that drives tight and smooth and yet here my 03 with half the miles rattles and wanders.

Does anyone have any thoughts or ideas that may help me? Im about to let this truck take a swim!

Only thing left that may help with the wandering sensation may be adding or upgrading to a dual stabilizer for your steering.

Others may have other ideas.

How about a toe alignment? Toe can greatly affect handling/steering. Also a good alignment shop will check caster/camber and install bushings to get everything in spec or desired spec. Talking with a owner/tech of a shop he said camber should be set to 0. Caster should be around 3.5 to 4.5 but need to be real close to each other left to right. The left should be slightly lower to counter act road crown.
Putting all those new parts in there can slightly throw everything off and put you out of alignment. I would take it to an alignment shop and explain your problem to them. If they know what they are doing they should be able to recommend what should be done.

I wouldve guessed steering gearbox, but I guess you already replaced that. Ive got the same issue on my hiboy and its caused by the gearbox.

I forgot to mention I have a new stabilizer shock but maybe I should go with a dual. And I also forgot to mention I have had a few alignments over the last month and I forget what the caster and camber are but toe was set to 0. Maybe with the lift the caster is off? Is shims the only way to adjust caster?

Anyone have other thoughts before I make the 700 mile drive home on Sunday?

did you get a dual stabilizer setup?

No not yet. I am in Maryland visiting my relatives for the holiday. Just didn't know if anyone had any other ideas. To be honest the dual will help with the bump steer but I don't think it will do much for the wandering on straight flat roads.

In addition, you should ask them to adjust the caster to the positive end of the factory range. Positive caster improves straight line tracking because the caster line (the line drawn through the steering pivot when viewed from the side) intersects the ground ahead of the contact patch of the tire. Just like a shopping cart caster, the wheel is forced behind the pivot allowing the vehicle to track in a straight line. Negative caster will make your truck wanders from side to side and no longer track straight.

Toe should not be set to zero. Factory specs says there needs to be about .030-inch toe IN, minimum, but I'd set mine to a 1/16-inch (.0625-inch).

I agree with Monster-4 in Post #3, above. Yes, zero toe could let it "wander".

Caster spec is 3.5 degrees for a 4X4. Camber is something like a 1/4 degree, but I'd set my own to zero.

The pump just makes hydraulic pressure to move things, and is very unlikely to be your problem.

The rattle could be your caliper pins. You didn't mention checking them. There are upgraded front pins available, P/N 2C3Z-2C150-AA for about $20.

Pop

Spring you might be onto something with those pins. I just checked and sure enough the caliper wiggled slightly. The only thinks is the noise is still there with brakes applied. I'll change them anyway.

Thanks for the advice about alignments. I think that could be the wandering issue. But as far as changing caster, is that by using shims on the axle?

Read through Guzzle's write-up on the pin replacement for tips:
Welcome to guzzle's Front Caliper Slide Pin Upgrade Web

Though I've never personally done one of these front ends (yet), I believe there are offset bushings in the ball joints to adjust caster and camber. Looks like it could be quite a pain to do.

Pop

Caster/Camber is set by a bushing on top of the steering knuckle. The upper ball joint goes up thru it and the nut for the ball joint is drawn down onto the bushing. The bushing has a lip that has an angle to set caster/camber. There is a flat side on the bushing that locks against a vertical lip of the steering knuckle to keep the bushing from spinning in the knuckle

The factory bushing is fixed for caster/camber and while you can buy replacement fixed bushing the most common is an adjustable bushing. Here is an example from Moog.

Attachment 19113

I think Ill pick those up and pt them in then take it to a place that does alignments on trucks, not the monkeys that work at the firestone shop.

I just looked at my spec sheet I got from the last time i left and my camber is -0.1 on each side. Caster is 4.2 on the left and 4.3 on the right. toe is o on both sides.

Thanks for the help, I look forward to getting rid of the understeer and wandering hoping this should fix it.

If I were in your shoes, I'd set the toe at +1/16-inch and go try it first.

The caster/camber specs are pretty close.

Pop