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-   -   High & Low Beams Simultaneous (https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/901589-high-and-low-beams-simultaneous.html)

BAJI26 11-11-2009 06:11 PM

High & Low Beams Simultaneous
 
I searched but couldn't fine it, how to have High and Low Beams on together when you have the High Beams on.

SD26 11-11-2009 06:28 PM

http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?...ROD&ProdID=358

BAJI26 11-11-2009 09:20 PM

Thanks but the price!

I think I'll build my own... relay and diode.

housedad 11-11-2009 10:01 PM

BjI26- It really is that easy. Just remember to check your state laws. It is illegal in the State of NJ for fogs to come on at the same time as brights.

I don't know why that company says it is legal. Some states yes, some states, no. Mine are wired with a relay and a switch under the dash. Switch one way, brights and fogs if I want them. Switch the other way, standard factory wiring setup. Solves any problems I might have at the inspection station.

Bion

BAJI26 11-12-2009 12:21 AM

Its not for Fogs... its for the Headlights!

housedad 11-12-2009 12:47 AM

Ye Gods its late. I can't read. Gotta go find that hooked on phonics thing....

Sorry bout that.

BAJI26 11-12-2009 08:27 AM

Anyone know where I can find Blocking Diodes online?

bcrewcaptain 11-12-2009 08:47 AM

you don't need a diode, just a relay, power will not feed back thru an unactivated relay, simply have the relay activated by the high beam wire to trigger the low beams, your fog lights will also then work...

6 bucks from the parts store and you're in business

katiesdad7 11-12-2009 12:17 PM

I have bi-xenon HIDs and for some reason, I have no idea why, when I have my fogs on and turn my high beams on the highs and the fogs stay on. The only way to turn off the high beams is to turn off the fogs. If the fogs are off then they work normally.

VR6Nutt 11-15-2009 01:34 AM


Originally Posted by bcrewcaptain (Post 8135414)
you don't need a diode, just a relay, power will not feed back thru an unactivated relay, simply have the relay activated by the high beam wire to trigger the low beams, your fog lights will also then work...

6 bucks from the parts store and you're in business

Is there a detailed write up on the wiring anywhere? TIA

bcrewcaptain 11-15-2009 08:13 AM


Originally Posted by VR6Nutt (Post 8140323)
Is there a detailed write up on the wiring anywhere? TIA

here is the readers digest version

1.-Connect ground to body (relay circut 85)

2.-Splice switch or trigger wire (12v) from high beams wire (relay circut 86)

3.-Splice accessory circut to the low beams wire (relay circut 87)

4.-Connect Power from battery to 30AMP inline fuse to relay, (relay circut 30)

5.-Turn headlights on. Your your low beams should now stay on with your high beams!


http://chevytruckworld.tenmagazines....uck/114605.jpg


this will get both to come on when you flip the high beams on...but not kick on the highs when in low beam mode...
Keep in mind however this WILL shorten the lifespan of the bulbs due to heat and possibly damage the housing depending on the housing/bulbs being used.


I tried this setup and the light output was decent, but I was concerned with the heat, I ended up going with the relays to boost the current to the lights, but instead of doing the high/low mod, went with the 90/110w hella bulbs

VR6Nutt 11-16-2009 12:08 AM

Very cool! Reps added. Now I wonder if I can get the fogs to stay on too...

MisterCMK 11-16-2009 12:12 AM

The voltage is what you increase when you use a relay harness. It is amazing what just adding a relay harness will do. I built one for my Explorer and it made the headlights 100% better than they were. I do go through bulbs a bit quicker because there is higher voltage at the bulbs but that is not a big deal. I tried having the highs and lows on at the same time but I didn't care for it out on the highway on long trips; it strained my eyes.

MisterCMK 11-16-2009 12:13 AM

I forgot to mention that I picked up my headlight connectors from the junkyard but you can also buy them new which I would recommend if I did it over again. I think I used 12ga wire to the bulb connectors from the relay. Also, rather than cut into the stock harness, get a burned out bulb and break it up and solder onto the pins and then you can simply plug the stock headlight connector into the relay harness. It makes for a cleaner installation IMO.

bcrewcaptain 11-16-2009 10:11 AM


Originally Posted by MisterCMK (Post 8143192)
The voltage is what you increase when you use a relay harness. It is amazing what just adding a relay harness will do. I built one for my Explorer and it made the headlights 100% better than they were. I do go through bulbs a bit quicker because there is higher voltage at the bulbs but that is not a big deal. I tried having the highs and lows on at the same time but I didn't care for it out on the highway on long trips; it strained my eyes.


voltage and current delivery will both increase with the addition of the relays...provided you do it right..(increase the AWG of the wire accordingly)
the factory wiring is 16 or 18AWG(I have seen both)...not sufficient for the stock bulbs and certainly not enough for the aftermarkets with higher output.
The higher voltage will not kill the bulbs, the heat will,or even faster will be LOWER voltage. The bulbs are rating "X number of hours at 14-15v" depending on the maker.

Either way, the relays are a good idea even if you're still running the stock bulbs, the superduties/excursions that I have dealt with have ALWAYS dropped at least a volt between the battery and the headlight harness, often even more between the alternator and the harness.


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