Rust converter??????
 

Getting ready to do the interior of my 53. As we all know, most of the cab interior wasn't painted from the factory. I am wire brushing these rusty areas and spraying with a product from the auto paint house called "rust converter". It says to spray or brush 3-4 coats and let the last one sit for 24 hrs, then wipe with wet cloth or rinse. Now this stuff is very sticky before wiping, but cleans up easily. My question is, do I need to rinse the product out of the seams and areas that you can't reach with a rag? it seems that it will be a problem during paint if there is some left in the cracks, because it raised some rattle can paint that was on some of the interior surfaces.

What I did was us something called Ospho, it's green and comes in either a quart or gallon jug($20). It's the consistency of water and I just put it in my spray gun and soaked all the rusted metal(wire brushed the scale off). It then dries overnight and turns the rust into hard black material which is then ready for primer/paint. Worked great for me and there's no scrubbing or rinsing.

Ditto. The product I used was the same green watery stuff, different name. The label says that when it drys it provides a good adhesion base from primer. Stu

the paint on stugg work much better than the spray.

Rust bullet or POR 15 work best...but you cannot do a small area once you open the car you should use it. The rust converter in plastic bottle is good for small areas and generally stops the rust but you must knock off all the loose stuff or it will keep rotting behind it.


After reading the OP again. we I may be talking about something totally different.
bob

I would look for a fone # on the can and call the mfg. or the seller.

Seeing as the instuctions said to wipe or rinse, I believe I would rinse it good and dry.

Well, an update. The bottle said that rust must be present for this product to work, and they mean it. But, and there's always one of those, it didn't say anything about old paint. After the 4th coat of converter sat overnight, it turned to a hard black substance like the bottle said, everywhere there was any old paint it peeled the paint off. Also, it didn't stick very well to bare metal either. Just wiping it off with a wet rag brought probably 50% of it off, so I removed the rest with a wire brush. Gotta get busy though, now I have even more bare metal to rust:'(. Think I'll look for some POR-15 to do the rest of this job.

Jeff, even with POR-15, it needs something to grip on. They are all made to encapsolate rust. I've had good luck using a disc sander with coarse grit to ruff up bare metal. Try a small spot and see what you think of it. chuck

What about the Rust Bullet advertised on FTE? Anybody tried it? Results?

I use Red Devil rust converter from the paint dept of my local DIY store. It comes in a white plastic squeeze bottle with an applicator pad on the side. You wipe it on and any rust immediately turns black (as does you fingers, wear gloves!) you let it dry overnight to a smeary grayish mess then just paint over it with a good primer and paint. It has little to no affect if applied to clean rust free metal, there has to be iron oxide present to chemically react. I use it anywhere there was any rust originally even if I have sanded or brushed it clean looking. There will still be rust in the bottom of pits and seams the brush can't reach and will continue to grow and eat the metal even if you paint over it. The thin converter will seep down and react with even a microscopic amount of rust. The small bottle goes a surprisingly long ways if used as directed. I've used it for a long time and have never had any rust return to a treated area, even on lawn equipment stored outside unprotected. HIGHLY recommended.

I used Zero Rust, and they (can) supply a rust converter to mix and apply prior..

Add to water, spray on, dry, wipe, paint over..

Sam