1960 F600 VIN and Data plate decode
 

I'm looking at a '60 F600 and thinking about buying it. I know very little about it, other than it does have a 292, has a 2 speed rear axle, and I believe a 4 or5 5 speed tranny, didn't look that close.

I got the VIN today, I think I read it right as F60C0R42515. I also got the data plate info:

Wheelbase: 172
Color: F
Model: F602
Date: 16E
Trans: F
Axle: N2
GVW: 19500
Net HP: 146@3800rpm

This is a farm truck that hasn't run in several years, last licensed in '93. The body is in really good shape, but I'm not sure about the mechanicals. It needs all 6 tires replaced, most are bald, and all are badly dry rotted though they still hold air. The tires are 8.25 - 20 and the wheels are 6 lug up front and 5 lug in the rear. The boards on the flat bed are pretty well rotted out, no problem to change but another expense.

It does have an auxiliary fuel tank, but that's all for "extras". I was surprised to see a hydraulic clutch, didn't know Ford did that back then. It does not have power steering, and still has the original single bowl master cylinder, which I will replace with a dual reservoir version.

I've known the owner for about 15 years or so and he asked me what I thought it was worth instead of telling me what he wants for it. I don't even know where to begin with an offer, but I don't think I'd go any more than $500 considering all the rubber that needs to be replaced, the flat bed boards, probably a complete brake overhaul, and who knows what else at this point, surely none of that will be cheap.

If anyone can help educate me some and give me some idea as to whether I'm off track on an offer I'd sure appreciate it. He's had someone stop by and offer him $350 for just the running boards, but I'm not going to compete with part-it-out-itis and I'm quite certain the owner isn't interested in going down that road anyway.

$500 doesn't sound all that bad.

I do not remember the transmission codes, but the N2 is for a 2 speed, 6.33 / 8.81 ratio. But, the 60 F600 had six lugs on both front and rear axles, so someone may have changed the rear at some point. And on the brakes, with the high GVW it has power brakes with the remote booster mounted on the frame (just about under the driver seat). Just adding a dual master cylinder will not quite do it. Since the tires are 20 inchers, you may end up having to replace the wheels also. If you are not a good scrounger these can get expensive. But they are fun

Forgot all about your main question. For something not running/roadable I generally figure a good starting point for an offer is the scrap metal value of the truck. That one is probably close to 3 to 4 tons of metal, so find what the local salvage yards are paying per ton and go from there. Add for things in good or better condition. I have seen decent to nice roadable 57 - 60 F500s and F600s go for $1200 to $3500. And check out that extra fuel tank. One of mine has what looks like an extra fuel tank, but it is a hydraulic oil tank for the hoist mechanism that tilts the flatbed.

F60 = F600 2WD

C = 292 2V

0 = 1960

R = San Jose CA Assembly Plant

42515 = Numerical Sequence of Assembly (serial number)

172" Wheelbase

F = Sky Mist Blue

F602 = F600 2WD Conventional Cab / 19,500 lbs. GVWR

16E = Assembled May 16, 1960.

F = Borg Warner Model AS88 T-98A 4 Speed Manual Transmission.

N2 = Eaton Model 13800 or 13802 2 Speed Rear Axle / 6.33-1/8.81-1 / 15,000 lb. Rear Axle Capacity.

19,500 lbs. Gross Vehicle Weight Rating.

Decode info: 1957/63 Ford Truck Parts Catalog.

First year for the hydraulic clutch: 1957, used thru 1960 on F100/600's. 1961/64 on bigger trucks.

The clutch master & slave cylinders will prolly need rebuilding, the plastic line between the two may need to be replaced.

Figure on doing a complete brake job...good luck finding decent used front/rear brake drums.

Doesn't run...what does that mean? Engine shot? Transmission? Rear end?

You may be able to picture yourself cruisin' on down the road in this monster, but parts and labor does not come cheap.

All the parts are obsolete from Ford, but most can be found at autoparts stores, obsolete parts vendors like big truck specialist joblotauto.com.

Since I've owned 329 cars/trucks since 1956, I can usually look at some old rolling pile of miseries and estimate the repair costs.

To fix all the mechanical problems, figure spending...at least 5 GRAND minimum.

It could be far worse....which means, that you may find yourself stuck with a 19,500 GVWR money pit.

Thanks for the replies and assistance. I can elaborate on the non-run condition, ran fine when parked, and they used to use it all the time. Got a newer truck so they didn't need this one for anything, so it sat.

3414 - Question for you, why, since the tires are 20-inchers, would I need to replace the wheels? I didn't seem to have any problem locating suppliers for the original size tires, so is there another reason? Is it because these may be widow maker rims? I'll have to do some more research on what to look for. This truck does not have a hydraulic dump, so the extra tank is for fuel only. I didn't stop to look for the remote booster, but will try to do so tomorrow. I am concerned about the 6 lug front/5 lug rear as it would make carrying a spare about useless. I don't suppose that was much of an issue when being used on the farm though. :-X0A6

NumberDummy Wow! Thanks for the great decode!

I expect the brake and clutch systems will require a freshening up, but don't expect I'll have to replace drums. No way to know until they've been pulled and checked. Are brake shoes & related brake hardware for these equally as hard to find as the drums? I could probably have the existing shoes relined if necessary. If wheel cylinders need rebuilt or replacing, I can try the local mechanic shop in the small town near where I live and see what they have, there are a lot of these older Fords used for hauling grain in my neck of the woods and I know the local shop has a lot of stuff for them and sources for what they don't. ;)

As mentioned above, ran and drove fine when parked several years ago. I haven't made any firm offers, but will do a compression check before I decide to go any further. I'm not worried about labor unless it's machining of some sort, I can do all the rest.

There are a few other things I forgot to mention in my first post, the driver's door striker is shot and the same door glass is gone. Brake pedal goes to the floor, so I know the master cylinder is dry, whether I can add fluid and get the brakes working enough to drive or tow it the two miles to my place is yet to be seen. If I have time this weekend, I may try taking a battery and some brake fluid over and see if I can get it to run/drive/stop.

I sure appreciate all the info you guys have given me - many thanks!

Phil

As the tires are 20", odds are that the rims are the "widow makers". Also, on these trucks, if you carry a spare, you also must carry a wheel nut wrench with a very long handle.
On the brakes, the pedal going to the floor could be as simple as air in the system from just sitting to bad master cylinder/leaky wheel cylinders or rusted lines. To save yourself some time, take a few inverted flare plugs and caps, and some flarenut wrenches with you. if just adding fluid doesn't help, and you see no major leaks at any lines, do this:
1. disconnect line at master cylinder and plug the port on the MC. If you have decent pedal, MC works.
2. reconnect line at MC, and disconnect the line at the brake fluid outlet of the booster. If the pedal is good after a few pumps, this part works. (you do not need vacuum for this test, so engine does not have to be running.)
3. reconnect line at booster. Disconnect and plug or cap line going to rear brakes. If the pedal pumps up and holds, no bad leaks at the front brakes. If it doesn't, repair front brakes as needed.
4. reconnect rear brakes. If pedal pumps up and holds, get a helper and bleed the brakes. When bleeding the rears, open the bleeders pretty far, as you need a strong flow to purge the air. I have never had any luck using a vacuum bleeder on a remote booster setup. If pedal does not pump up, repair rear brakes as needed.

Good luck.

Since the door glass is flat (right/left is the same), any autoglass shop can cut you a new one from glass stock.

I see no real problem finding new brake shoes and related parts.
--------------------------------------------------------------
C1TB9122009A .. Left Door Striker Plate / Obsolete

Fits: 1957/60 F100/1100 // 1957/72 C500/1000.

ANTIQUE AUTO SUPPLY in Arlington TX has ONE = 817-275-2381.

KLIMESH MOTOR SALES in Calmar IA has FOUR = 563-562-3241.

WESLEY OBSOLETE PARTS in Liberty KY has 11 = 606-787-5293.

Did you buy it yet? Mine runs GREAT and only needs break/turn lights and a wiper blade. The grain box on my truck has a diamond plate floor with a smooth tin covering. This is going to be fun.

Just bought a 1960 F-600 for my homestead
 

I have a '60 F-600 dump truck to go with my '63 B-500 school bus now. I need to replace the driver's door glass and fix the wipers, but other than that, it got me home. It reached almost 65 mph on the 45 mile trip home. I could not get it into it's highest gear while moving though, but the two-speed diff works great. It has a different shift pattern than anything I've driven before. Reverse is top right, 1st (granny) is directly below it. 2nd is top left, 3rd directly below it, 4th is just to the right of 3rd and down, and OD is directly up from 4th. I could not get it to shift from 4th to the OD position while the truck was moving, but can while it is still. It also grinds between 3rd and 4th, but I'll bet that is just worn synchros.
According to the data tag, it has a 4 speed transmission, but it appears to be a 5 speed with granny, or a six speed. Here is the data tag info:

Serial # - F60C0G24081

Wheelbase - 154

Color - J

Model - F602

Date - 09F

Trans - F

Axle - F2

GVW - 19500

HP@RPM - 146/3800

D.S.O. - 1657

Anyone have any ideas about the transmission? Number Dummy?
Thanks - Neal

A 5 speed with that pattern is a Clark. Sounds like you have the rare overdrive. Likely a 251VO. The 5 speed Clarks used in these trucks are only syncromesh in the top 2 gears. Upshifting through the gears slow and deliberately is fairly easy, but for down shifting to third or below takes double clutching. The difficulty in shifting to OD while moving may be a worn out synchro. You could try letting engine speed drop some more while shifting onto OD to see if that helps.

Thanks 3414. I'll look into it.

help with new purchase
 

I know this is an old thread but looking for help on a truck I just purchased. I know it has a Y-block but not sure what size. Drove a few hours today and picked it up, turns over without an issue so now it is time to go through everything. Super original 2nd owner truck I picked up for a few hundred $$. Can someone help me decode the vin tag?

ryadboh,

Welcome to FTE the best Ford Truck Forum on the world wide Web!

As you said this an old thread. Your best bet is to start a new thread and include some pictures of your new truck.

:-newbie You typed this question in the wrong forum, this is for 1948/56. You want either the 1957/60 or LARGE TRUCK forum.

I told you the same thing in your new thread.