Bad Battery = Bad FICM
 

Just curious, but how do weak or bad battires ruin a FICM, and if thats that case is it a bad idea to jumpstart a 6.0l?
Ed

The FICM requires a minimum of 8 volts to generate voltage to fire the injectors. I've never heard of bad/weak batteries ruining a FICM up until all the FICM failures started from the inductive heat flash Ford incorporated 2 years ago. I'm sure it probably happens, but I wouldn't think it was that common. If you hook up the jumper cables correctly you shouldn't have any problems.

I have to agree with partsman. Had a bad battery last most. Took the system down to 12.04 before cranking. Replaced both batteries and just returned from 2 weeks in the sierras with no problems.

Thanks for the input. So is the system voltage more critical than amperage?
Ed

I am in the camp that bad batteries can and do damage FICM's. It is all about heat generation. The FICM's amplify the 12V system to 48V. In doing so, they generate quite a bit of heat. When they are dealing w/ low voltages, they have to work harder. this will cause premature failure. Not immediate, but premature.

TSB 08-26-3 gives us a litle insight to this. PAY ATTENTION TO THE LAST PARAGRAPH BELOW.

<TABLE border=0><TBODY><TR><TD width=230>FORD:
</TD><TD>2003-2005 Excursion
2003-2007 F-Super Duty
2004-2009 E-350, E-450, E-550</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>


This article supersedes TSBs 04-18-6 and 07-5-4 to update the repair sequence, FICM_MPWR check, symptoms and additional diagnostic information. ISSUE:

Some 2003-2005 Excursion, 2003-2007 F-Super Duty and 2004-2009 E-Series vehicles equipped with a 6.0L diesel engine may experience no starts, hard starts or rough running when cold and may be accompanied with diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) P0611, P1378 and / or all 8 injector circuit codes. These symptoms may lessen or disappear when the engine is warm. These conditions may be caused by the Fuel Injection Control Module (FICM) or injector spool valve sticking internally during cold engine operation.
ACTION:

Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct the condition.
SERVICE TIPS



A failed FICM module can cause diagnostic trouble codes related to injectors even when the injectors or injector wiring are not at fault. The FICM module should be checked for proper operation before evaluating injector operation or wiring issues.
For information: Symptoms of stiction (These conditions are caused by the injector spool valve sticking internally during cold engine operation engine oil temperature) can be improved by using the lightest possible specified weight oil during winter months. Refer to the Owner Guide Information - Diesel Supplement / Maintenance and Specifications / Engine oil specifications. After confirming that the appropriate weight oil is being used, evaluate the injector operation according to Step 13 of the Service Procedure. Information On The FICM TEST:



An improperly operating vehicle battery(s) or charging system can cause additional operating loads to the internal components of the FICM module, due to low power supply voltages. Glow plug operation, vehicle accessories (factory and non-factory installed), and hot and cold temperatures can also put additional requirements on the vehicles electrical, battery and charging system. This can result in shortened FICM module component life. The FICM module contains two major internal components, the main circuit board and a DC-DC converter. The DC-DC converter is the device that amplifies battery voltage to 48 volts (V) to operate the injectors.

More info from the TSB:

Two major test entry conditions listed below are critical to accurately test the FICM DC-DC converter:

Engine Oil Temperature (EOT) Less Than 68 °F (20 °C)



The calibration in the FICM uses a pre-cycle mode during Key On Engine Off (KOEO) / glow plug operation. This mode is used to rapidly heat the injector spool valve and prevent sticking during cold operation. During this mode, the electrical demand on the FICM DC-DC converter is near maximum. L_PWR >= 11.5 V


The target 48 V output of the DC-DC converter is directly affected by the battery supply voltage, or B+. This is measured internally to the FICM with the FICM_VPWR PID. Ensuring both of the above criteria are met before conducting the FICM_MPWR test will prevent incorrect readings, misdiagnosis and replacement of good parts.

SERVICE PROCEDURE

1. Verify the battery and charging system are functioning properly. Refer to Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 414-00 for diagnosis and repair. If the battery cannot maintain a good charge, it will affect the operation and testing of the FICM, as the FICM is an amplifier and has to work much harder to compensate for low battery voltage.

FWIW
here is my story:)
i got the "new flash" inductive heating..... then a month or two go by thinking alls good....then my truck's batteries aren't holding a charge....take it to the shop and get two new batteries....shop calls and says now truck won't start.....get towed to the dealership.....FICM fried cost about $1,400

Update in April 2009:

A broadcast message was released that indicated the Inductive Heat Flash programs were updated. It is surmised that it was to address improved troubleshooting of FICM and related components, but also perhaps included some adjustments to "ease" the electical strain produced on the FICM from the Inductive Heat operation.

SOME VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH A 6.0L DIESEL ENGINE MAY EXPERIENCE NO STARTS, HARD STARTS OR ROUGH RUNNING WHEN COLD AND MAY BE ACCOMPANIED WITH DTC'S P0611, P1378 AND/OR ALL 8 INJECTOR CIRCUIT LOW CODES. WHEN USING TSB 08-26-3 TO DIAGNOSE THESE CONCERNS, BE AWARE THAT ON STEP 3, OF THREE NEW FUEL INJECTOR CONTROL MODULE (FICM) CALIBRATIONS RELEASED WITH TSB 09-7-11 CONTAINING UPDATED INDUCTIVE HEAT STRATEGIES; ARZ2AH10, ARZ2AL10, ARZ2AL11. IN STEP 7, ENGINE OIL TEMPERATURE (EOT) SIMULATION MUST BE SET TO 32F (0C), BY USING A 100,000 OHM SETTING, TO GIVE ACCURATE RESULTS. THE NEW CALIBRATION CHANGES THE FREQUENCY OF INJECTOR SPOOL VALVE SHUTTLING UNDER CERTAIN CONDITIONS AND WILL SOUND DIFFERENTLY FROM PREVIOUSLY RELEASED VERSIONS. TSB 08-26-3 IS CURRENTLY IN PROCESS OF BEING UPDATED. MONITOR OASIS FOR UPDATES.

Thanks Mark. So if I install a voltage meter in my truck I should be able to monitor the sytem voltage, and determine if I have a bad battery or two, or even a bad alternator. What would be normal readings on the gage? I imagine it would be +-12v.
Ed
:-X25

I watch my voltages pretty closely. About a year ago, I saw some voltages during cranking that seemed low to me. So I load tested the batteries. One showed bad (factory battery - lasted just long enough to get past the 3 yr warranty period). I changed both batteries. Even when only one battery is bad, you should replace them both. In the long run it will be a whole lot less headaches.

I know of no way to tell if you have a bad battery except w/ a load test. Simple voltage readings will not do it. Watching the voltage during crank is a crude "load test", but better to have it done (or buy a load tester yourself).

Note - I do not think npccpartsman agrees w/ me completely on this one. I certainly respect his thoughts, but I am convinced that poor voltages can lead to problems over the long haul.

Here are my voltages:
Voltage w/ key off - 12.5
Voltage w/ key on engine off (after glow plug light turns off) - 12.0
Voltage after startup - 12.0
Voltage apprx. 2 minutes after startup - 13.2 (seems to steadily ramp from 12.0)
Voltage apprx. 4 minutes after startup - 13.6 (seems to slowly but steadily ramp from 13.2)

Your alternator needs to put out 13.5 to 14.5 Volts. If you are questioning the alternator, I would get it tested.

Here is a thread that may be interesting:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ing-issue.html

I think you kind of blew me out of the water with this one Mark. I was going off the FICM diagnostic procedure that was posted earlier as I hadn't seen this TSB. This is the one I've been looking for that tells just exactly what the "new" inductive heat flash does. I, however, don't have it in my FICM anymore as Eric took care of that.

I am sure that voltage issues over the long term cause damage, I just don't know to what extent. Electronics is by far not my field of experience. Your alternator voltage table is interesting. Mine does the same thing almost exactly.

I have had the heat flash since july 07 and no problems yet, 25,000 on the flash.

Same time I got mine put in. Got my new FICM about a month ago. Hope you don't have a failure.

About when I got mine also. Two sets of batteries since. 2nd set one month ago, both covered under warranty even tho only one went bad. Knock on wood, no problems with any electronics.

Tim - this is what is frustrating w/ Ford. The TSB "hints" at damage from low voltage. It doesn't come right out and say how low is bad or how much damage may occur. Therefore, it is just plain hard to say what the REAL effect is, so no one can really claim to have the official answer. I take it at face value and have decided to be VERY conservative. This seems to be the key to success in SO MANY areas of the 6.0!