About to change my HPOP Seal any steps for me?
 

Title says it, Ive had the fuel bowl off before so I can get that far. Anything else I should know or is there a writeup?

What seal, where did you get it from, and hold on, I will give you a link

http://www.dieselorings.com/index.ph...&cat=8&group=6

There is a PDF file on this page that should help you. Good Luck, and enjoy!!

I just got that kit in the mail (thanks guzzle92!). Besides the link for the instructions, I think the OP is also looking for any lessons learned from guys that have replaced your HPOP seals.

I am going to attack this soon too as my engine valley is shiny and wet. I don't know which seal(s) are leaking yet, but I'm going use them all and be done with it (except the "non-serviceabe" plug...if it's not leaking, then I'm leaving it alone).

Is there any good information, good ideas or best practices anybody has to share to help this go as smoothly as possible? Any advice is appreciated.

Sorry for the partial :-hijacked, but I couldn't just put "subscribing" in my post...:-X10

I got the kit from Ford it came with 3 orings, does that include the service plug or the rear plug o ring?

Sorry, cant help you there, I had got my Gasket from the IH dealer down the street, then went to Guzzle ( Bob) when I was still leaking.

Is the gasket (is that the one with the strainer?) worth changing while I have it off? Or should I leave well enough alone if it's not leaking and hope for the best? :confused:

The three gasket set from Ford only has the 2 discharge hoses and the rear plug o-ring

The strainer gasket between the two parts of the reservoir is supposed to be re-usable. I would not touch it if it were not seeping. There are two different gaskets for this seal, depending on your pump. If you use the incorrect one, you will crack your reservoir on the drivers side ... make sure it is the correct one!



The important thing in replacing the o-rings is to allow the loc-tite to cure for a minimum of two hours before re-starting the engine. Loc-tite specs out 24 hour cure time for their sealing compound but I have had success with only 2 hours.

If you have drained your HPOP, it will take some time to refill the reservoir with only the LPOP so make sure that your reservoir is manually filled from 3/4 to 1" from the top. After it fires off, it may take 50 miles or so to get the air worked out of the oil rails before the engine settles down.

Thanks for all the info Bob.

Do you recommend any other seals I should replace (besides your 7 o-ring HPOP kit) while I've got the HPOP out?

Is there a particular reason that you are pulling the HPOP besides just replacing the o-rings? If not, I would do it on the truck.

I haven't been able to pinpoint the location of the leak, so I was planning on the worst (as is usually my luck) and figuring on fixing the non-serviceable plug. I was just planning on doing as much as realistically possible without causing more problems since I was already going to be in there.

When you remove the bolts and the HPOP from the engine front cover, discard that gasket and replace it with a new one.

Thanks. Will do.

I have not this work before, but is it possible to spray a large amount of carb cleaner or brake cleaner to remove enough oil and find out were the oil is leaking?
Nick

Finding this leak is a pain, I had cleaned everything and stuffed white rags under teh HPOP until I cound find the exact spot ( and already replaced everything else I could)