v-10 cylinder head id
 

How do you know if you have a short threaded cylinder head or a long threaded cylinder head? I have a 2002 f-350

Here's the info:

December 1996 - 4.6L 4V alignment feature added
February 1997 - 4.6L 2V head alignment feature added
September 2000 - WEP (Windsor Engine Plant) 2V head alignment feature modified (4.6/5.4/6.8)
November 2002 - WEP introduced long thread heads on 2V (all)
May 2003 - REP (Romeo Engine Plant) introduced long-thread heads on 4V 4.6 and 5.4
November 2003 - REP introduced long-thread heads on 2V and modified alignment feature

In 1999, and 2001, an interim fix was done for a cross-threading issue.
Original process:

Step 1 - Zero torque spark plug (air tool)
Step 2 - Torque to 16-20Nm final torque (DC Run down), monitor at 6-12Nm, and final torque must be reached within 0-360 degrees.

New process (addressed the possibility of applying installation torque for more than 25 degrees of rotation)
Step 1 - Zero torque spark plug (air tool)
Step 2 - Torque to 16-20Nm final torque (DC Run down) start monitor at 6-12Nm, and final torque must be reached within 3-25 degrees.

Another action to address cross-threading was the addition of an alignment feature to lead the plug into the hole.

Here's the info:

December 1996 - 4.6L 4V alignment feature added
February 1997 - 4.6L 2V head alignment feature added
September 2000 - WEP (Windsor Engine Plant) 2V head alignment feature modified (4.6/5.4/6.8)
November 2002 - WEP introduced long thread heads on 2V (all)
May 2003 - REP (Romeo Engine Plant) introduced long-thread heads on 4V 4.6 and 5.4
November 2003 - REP introduced long-thread heads on 2V and modified alignment feature

In 1999, and 2001, an interim fix was done for a cross-threading issue.
Original process:

Step 1 - Zero torque spark plug (air tool)
Step 2 - Torque to 16-20Nm final torque (DC Run down), monitor at 6-12Nm, and final torque must be reached within 0-360 degrees.

New process (addressed the possibility of applying installation torque for more than 25 degrees of rotation)
Step 1 - Zero torque spark plug (air tool)
Step 2 - Torque to 16-20Nm final torque (DC Run down) start monitor at 6-12Nm, and final torque must be reached within 3-25 degrees.

Another action to address cross-threading was the addition of an alignment feature to lead the plug into the hole.

Thanks, I have a v-10 in my truck and just started to hear a ticking sound from the passenger side of the truck and it only has 48,000 on the motor. I stopped driving it and am hoping to check the plugs torque this weekend. I was hoping I had the long threaded heads.

Hows your exhaust manifold studs look? Any missing or loose?

Havent looked into the exhaust manifold area yet. Been getting home late and it's to dark to work on. I will start on truck thursday morning. Thanks for the heads up. I am hoping it's something simple.

That's how mine started .... Ticking coming from the passenger side. I checked the first 3 closest (easiest ) plugs and they were fine. I was running late and didn;t get to the back 2 --- next day --> guess which one blew !:mad::-banghead:mad::-banghead:mad::-banghead $300 tow to Ford for them to cover it under warranty ....

Definitly check them and take a peak at the studs as welll... Mine is a 2000 and being in the northeast doesn't help the rust factor either... Mine's got a couple missing - but still not a real problem... will look at getting them replaced in the next few months while still under warranty

good luck !

Alright guys, I just got the best news to report. After trying to find the ticking noise I started with the many suggestions from this site, start at the plugs was what I did. Well guess what, it was a plug. I was lucky enough to hear the ticking soon enough and stop driving it. The plug was just about hand tight. I removed it carefully and no threads had any aluminum on them so I feel pretty safe that I was lucky enough to catch it. So I torqued the plug back down, and the ticking is gone. I want to thnk the people that posted on my thread and also for the awesome site. Thanks Todd

How do you know when your engine was built if the sticker on the side of the block is gone?

Check the door sticker, and subtract about 30 days for a guesstimate :-X14

If you get an OASIS report, you can at least find the engine serial #, but that's about it.