'06 3500 shivy springs
 

I came across a set of '06 shivy springs off of a cab n chassis 3500. I am going to check them out tonight. I am quite anxious to get this shackle flip done on my '71 F250. I haul snowmobiles on a deck on the back of this pickup so I need something that will hold them up not sway like an old drunk. I also wanted to eliminate axle wrap, something these trucks do pretty terrible. I will post pics as the progress continues.
Thank you to 75f350 for the inspiration to carry out this project instead of re-arching the stock leaves.

Little birddie told me that you are limited on time for this. Same little birddie told me that you wanted to move your axle a bit while you were at it. Good idea! No great idea. This is exactly the time to do so, and I dont believe that you will be dissapointed in the least. This a fantastic upgrade. We domt hear too many bad things from the cabby giys about their rear springs, and some of them run the big diesel and make some decent power. I have had nothing but good to say about this upgrade and am very glad to see others moving this direction.
Eager to see how this progresses and more interested to see / hear how it works out.
I also understand that you have some wood to haul.
My money says that you will haul all of the wood that you can handle and the truck will work like a champ. Matter of fact, I am also willing to wager that not only will it out carry your previous set up, but it will ride better loaded, as well as empty, and,,,,will work far superior during those off road excursions.
This is a prediction that has a little bit of experience behind it. I'm excited to see that your are taking these steps.........You will love it.

Thanks Ed, The leaves I got are a 4 + 1 set-up. The 3500 springs were way over beef for what I am going to do. I hope the 2500 leaves will do. I had plenty to choose from. The guy rebuilds and parts out late-model shivy totals. Tonight I will set the bed off and remove the old hangers. tomorrow I will hopefully layout the new ones and maybe thursday get them drilled and bolted on. I don't have a lot of time in the evenings, I have to work outside in the dark. Kind of slows things down a bit.

by the way, you cracked me up with your reply.....pretty funny stuff.

Try to use the existing bolt holes as a reference. If you use the hole that is the furthest forward as an alignment hole for the back of the hanger (we are taling about the fixed hanger for the front of the spring) you will find that it will probably locate the axle in the exact spot you need. I do understand the wheelbase differences between yours and mine and believe that this existing hole will work just about perfect.
By using the existing hole you will know that this thing will be in there square and this should take some of the headache out of this upgrade.
Does that make sense? Use the front original holes as the mounting points for the rear part of the hanger. This is just like moving the hanger forward until the front holes line up with the back part of the hanger. Only one hole will line up and then you will have to align the hanger vertically. This should get you into the ball park.

Now depending upon which hanger you use for the rear, the same method can be used for the back hanger too. One bolt hole can be used and this might just get you into the ball park for shackle angle. Not that difficult really, I know you have a handle on it.

hmmmm
 

sounds like I may have to modify my rear bumper mounts. I ran them all the way to the rear of the spring hangers for stupid strength. I was hoping that I would not have to modify it. Gotta do what ya gotta do.

So I need to shorten my wheel base by 1.5", will this take that into account? It would be nice to use an existing hole to make it come out square.

Wish you were here to partake in the thrash fest. I hope I have enough oxy/acetylene to cut all the rivets. Gonna be close.

I remember when I did my shortbox, it sure plants the tires harder in the flipped configuration.:-innocent

If you use the hole that is the highest, this is actually the one that is the furthest forward too. Use this as the upper most bolt hole in the hanger. The hole configuration os shaped like a "V" and not straight so using this method will bring the axle forward. It may not give you the heigth that you desire, or it may, who knows yet, but this will get you close, I mean real close. Then you can determine the axle location and if it works then you have one measurement done. The rest is just the vertical mounting location.
I forgot about your bumper bracket, I do recall you mentioning this before. Yes, this may have to be modified. You can handle it I know. The deadline sounds a little tight but you know what you are doing.

I got the hangers off of the same truck. an '04 I think. They are kind of awkward looking compared to the Ford models. They are really tall also. Did you use the same type in your situation?

Yes, yes I did. I used the front one as a front one and then I used the orifinal ford front one as the rear hanger for the shackle flip.

As illustrated here. This is now the rear hanger. This was originally the front:

http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/m...rearhanger.jpg

http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/m...0/HPIM0929.jpg

The longer front hanger will allow you to lower the mounting point to gain additional lift should you desire.

front
 

you have a pic of the front one?

Just for you pal:

Actually I guess I only have this one. This was when I busted some parts in the desert and had to improvise to get her home. It will give you the idea I guess.

http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/m...0/HPIM0928.jpg

Those hangers look similar, but are not as tall as the ones I got. Mine have 4 holes up each side. The bottom looks the same though. I think may weld some fat washers around the spring bolt holes to make them a bit thicker. maybe not. If it works for you, it is prolly overkill for me. You use 1/2" bolts? Grade 8 obviously.

Those are actually stainless steel but a good quality fastener should be used. I now have removed the split ring washer and just use a locking nut. This was a problem when I first put it together. They cam loose and the replacement bolts were too long (shoulder). So I had to use the only washers I had on the trail.
They have been replaced and now use a nut with a nylon lock. No more loose bolts for me.
Yes I did step up the bolt size to 1/2". Watch out for the edge of the hanger, you dont want it to get too thin along the side.

I know the exact set of hangers that you have found and I liked them over the set I have. Mine are from a 1/2 ton of you remember. I used to run 1/2 ton springs and while I liked them, they were too soft and required some attention. I bent one when busted an axle and decided to replace them with some larger units.

See the pretty bend:

http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/m...0/HPIM0926.jpg

I noticed that first off.

It appears that you even left the lower over-loads on. You think they will be enough with the sled deck? About 1600 lbs mounted above the bedsides.

One can only speculate but I can tell you that I have had over 2,000 lbs in the bed of mine.
Late chebby trucks handle slide in campers without much of a problem, so I would say that the sled deck would be of little problem.