Is There A Sheet Metal Dr. In The House?
 

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Anybody have experience with shrinking a warped bed side panel? The right panel, rear section has a bad warp in the last 10-12 inches of the straight metal. Not sure how it got there -- bed came with this 'new' project. The picture doesn't do justice to how bad it is. The whole rear half of the bed side oil cans if I try to muscle this into shape with the stake pocket over the top of it. I've never heat shrunk any flat metal -- scares me where this problem is located. Any suggestions?

-Ken

Scary is right. That flat of a surface and heat shrinking isn't gonna be easy.

It's really too big to shrink anyway - you'd get one part started and it would just deform when you moved on and heated the next.

AX Racer is a god when it comes to sheet metal, and Dave Boley is a good welder.

I have done some shrinking but nothing this big.

Question, maybe a stupid one, but I'll ask it anyway: instead of shrinking the large panel in the center, why don't you heat and stretch the edge out to match it? Pulling a little instead of pushing a lot should be easier!

Yeah I know Havi. I can't figure out what would've caused it. Doesn't seem to have any heat marks on it that I can see and it doesn't have a crease in it like it was stepped on.

First thing I'd do is put the stake pocket/support on. Clamp it on real tight with about 8 clamps. The more the better. This may take out some of the warp, or it may just move it Somewhere else. If it fits good, and every thing is square, tack it on. I wouldn't try shrinking anything until you have ALL parts attached solidly. Weld carefully, control your heat or you could have a bigger problem. Good luck T/M

No dumb questions here Julie. I was thinking the same thing. Just looking for a little courage from the group. Will probably try it. Don't seem to have much to lose. Thanks.

-Ken

I would think you could cut it with a very fine blade in a "Sea Shell" type of pattern from the back edge to the edge of the stretch. Then pull them apart a little and fill them up - rather than heat stretch.

Send AX a PM - see what he says.

That looks like a brand new bed? What's the deal, where did you get it from and have the suppliers offered any refund or replacement?

Hi Ken,
Hopefully AX will chime in on this one. However, I would caution you not to put heat to this thing. I'm not saying that heat cannot be used but I would say only in the hands of a skilled person who knows how much to put in the right place. I'm a pretty good welder but I don't claim to know what to do here. I can tell you from experience that if you apply heat anyplace the first thing the metal will do is expand at the point of application. Another problem is that you are working with a flat panel that is exposed on both sides so there is no place to hide what you do. I would have to say the answer to your problem would be to achieve shrinkage by the hammer and dolly method. here again, where to start is critical. Theren probably is no amount of pictures you could post here to allow even am expert to tell you what to do and where to start.

I'm not trying to steer youn awy here but I would suggest going to this link: Autobodystore Forums - Powered by vBulletin and joining so you can post your problem there. they have some really talented guys there that may be able to help you.

Later Man...

That's what I would do. The stake pocket might give it enough rigidity. Without it, the end of your bedside has nothing to "push" against.

Just sitting on the sawhorses might be causing the bedside to bow out and down just a little too.

It is a new Mack Hils bed but I got it second hand from the seller of the '40 Ford project I got. Didn't know it till I got it home and out of the box (yeah, I know, buyer beware...) but both side panels and front panel were warped. Cleco fastners and muscle got the front panel in shape but the side panel ends are the pits, especially the passenger side. I haven't explored replacement (yet) but may do so when I'm ready to yell Uncle. As Julie suggested, I'll PM AX and see what he says.
-Ken

I'm callin it a night but just wanted to let you all know that I truely appreciate you helping me think this one through. More later, I hope.

Ken

Be patient, I'm sure AX will be able to provide you with some insight, but for best results, you may want to have a good body man affect the repair for you as if you are unfamiliar with the process, you may just cause yourself more problems.

Hi!
I suspect the warp came from the shrinking caused by rolling the beads into the panel, an unavoidable problem when rolling beads, the metal has to come from somewhere. Tinman and Havi have the right idea IMHO, you need to first provide a stable end by adding the stake pocket or some other stiffener. Welding it in place may likely provide the small amount of shrinkage you need. Start clamping at the ends, stretching the panel as flat as you can get it, then clamp the center distributing the bow of the excess metal equally between the two ends. weld the ends then the center with short tacks (~ 1/2"). Chill the center tack with a wet rag immediately after welding (normally I do not chill shrinks, but here the effects will be beneficial since you want all the shrink you can get and any hardening of the metal will not be detrimental). Now clamp the metal twice more equal distance between the previous 3 welds once again trying to equally distribute any excess metal on either side of the clamp. Tack and chill at the clamps. Continue this method until the panel is flat and you are satisfied with the # of tacks or until fully welded. Once the panel is flat discontinue chilling and let each weld air cool before more welding to reduce risk of over shrinking.

The AX Man speaketh... Now you shall know...

All Hail the AX Man.
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