Oil Pan Rust - Bad...
 

I went under this morning to lube the front end and was checking around. I noticed bubbles on the bottom of the oil pan. I tapped them and a nice chunk of rust fell off, about a half inch across by 2 inches. There is an area about 5 inches across that appears to have rust under the paint (got bubbles).
I read one post that said the dealer told the person the engine had to be pulled and another hinted that it didn't.

So, has anyone removed their pan?
Or is this a full-blown shop ordeal?
Time involved?
Price?

you can try this if its not tooooo bad..... Stop Rust with Rust Inhibitor Products, Rust Paint & Coating or por15
heres some threads on it https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...n-removal.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...-this-out.html
this one has some good pics so you can see if its same or worse https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...an-cancer.html

Wait a minute....
Doesn't the 10 year, 100,000 mile engine warranty cover the oil pan????

It's a five year, 100,000 mile warranty and yes, it would have covered it and might still. Was your truck purchased new on Novemeber or December of '03?

How about this,
http://chicago.craigslist.org/nch/pts/802429065.html
Hmmmmm looks like this link isnt good anymore. Anyone know what happened to the two piece oil pan? I think it would be a hell of alot better than pullin the engine!

Grrr, wish it had been noticeable in March when the 5 years was coming to an end.
I called the stealer and they want $2000 to replace the pan, jacking the engine, not cutting the x-member. They want $240 to clean and seal the existing pan. They recommended I do it myself with the POR. I'll go look for some and get to it.
So much for changing all the other underside fluids today....

Which product?
http://www.stoprust.net/

As the others have said, you are up the creek unless you can repair with the POR-15 or some other rust inhibitor if the damage isn't too far along. I do believe you need to pull the engine to replace the pan.

Good to go! Hit it with the wire wheel and the pan is still in good shape.
I covered it with some black stovepipe paint until I get the POR.
I want the POR 15 and the Blackcote, right?
Think AutoZone may have it?

Looks to me that POR-15 is only available by a dealer for the product. I guess you need to mail order the stuff. At least you caught your problem before it rusted through the pan.

IIRC ,,,the POR works best when applied to the rust itself....

Cool...
Do I need the Blackcote too?

JHC.

:-X16

I just did mine last friday. It is a bit of a time consuming process if you do it right. First you have to get the flakes and scale of with a wire brush(which you already did). But since you painted it, you are going to have to do it again. I would actually do it now and get it wet and let it rust again overnight or so. Then you put a marine de-greaser that comes with the kit on. Then wash it off with water and let it dry. Then you put a coating of this chemical that bonds with the rust on. Wait 15 minutes then spray it off real good with water and let it dry. Then you get under there and paint on the POR 15.

It isn't hard at all but figure a couple of hours at least just because of all the waiting around for stuff to dry. While I was at it, I treated my plow mount too. It was the ugliest thing on my truck. Looks great now. I only have done 1 coat so far but it looks great.

So your feeling is that I do -NOT- need to get the Blackcote too. The final is the POR-15 paint.

It won't be hard to scrape off the stovepipe coating I put on. I just wanted a band-aid on the bleeding while I wait on the POR. Supposed to get a lot of rain this week.

Yeah, get the paint off, and let it rust. All you need is the Super Starter kit of the POR. It comes with everything you need. The final stage is a black gloss coat. It will be fine. The POR 15 is used by many auto restoration people and that extra stage is probably something they like. I don't think we need it for the pan. I will get a picture of my plow mount to show you what it looks like.