Tips on Flattie search
 

I'm on the lookout for a 239 for my F1. Is there a foolproof method to determine the condition of the block by visual inspection. Short of going over every inch of the block visually, where should one look for cracks, etc. I'm guessing most won't turn over freely by hand. Need pointers.

Tom

not sure of a way, but im sure the one in my garage ran like a top when i took it out. to bad its a long way from you. i am in tn.

Tom, a good visual inspection of the block with the heads removed will find the large cracks, if any, but the only way to be completely sure is have a NDI of the block. Most cracks that you can see will be around the valve seats going into the water jacket or the cylinder, usually at the exhaust valve. You may also see minor cracks from the head bolt holes into the water jacket but these will not cause much of a problem as the head bolts go into the water jackets anyway. A little thread sealant and a good head gasket will take care of these. Check the out side of the block and heads for rust marks which may indicate a crack. This will only allow you to make a decision on taking a chance on the block or not. That's the way I do it and I'm sure someone will chime in with some more tips on what to look for. Hope this helps.

Gil

Have a spare 239 8RT engine .It needs rebuilt .Am taking the other one to a machine shop end of Sept. to have it pressure tested see 2 hair line cracks center on left bank from the head bolt hole out each way to H2O jacket . They said it can be repaired if severe enough . Drill ,dowel ,weld and deck head face .If this block works out the other will be for sale . Need to finance the stock truck build so the 1ST-RIDE can stay home more often . Paranoia sets in when it's in traffic .

Gil pretty much has it down - one thing I might add, if you pull the heads, and there's water, or remnants of having water in one cylinder at one time, carefully check that one for cracks. Sometimes it's head gasket, often it's cracks, from what I understand.

My recommendation, is to wait until you can find one, that you can hear running, and know that it's got a much better chance of being in good shape. I bought mine, with just a few hours ( but several years) on a fresh rebuild for $1200. I couldn't have rebuilt one for anywhere NEAR that price. And I've known some, that have bought a whole running truck for $1500 or so, often with other problems. If it's decent enough, you might recoup a lot of the initial cost, parting it out. I would have done that several times, if I didn't have a FIRM rule, on NO PARTS TRUCKS!! At times, I wish I hadn't decided that, but most other times, I'm glad I only have the ONE project.

Good luck with your search! I have seen quite a few go on ebay, "running", that say you can hear them run, before taking them...

R

The sure-fire alternative is to buy a machined, guaranteed block. You're probably going to want a fresh engine sooner or later, best to start with one. Not cheap but saves a lot of frustration. There are also people selling un-machined, but vatted and pressure checked blocks. Cheaper but they need valve jobs, boring, cam bearings, etc. You pay to play...

i also have an 8-rt in need of full rebuild. block, heads, pumps, intake. never been apart. will stand behind engine not being cracked. lower ny. however----ross and roger hit the nail on the head. hearing it run allows you to sleep at night!

Thanks for all the input
 

I am going to look into an F67 that I saw a couple years back, hope it is still there.. It might be smarter to buy the whole truck , like suggested if the motor is mostly there.

Later

Tom

I have a good one in Saskatchewan from a 53 3/4ton. I' still a few hours away. it was rebuilt in the late 80's.