ford aspire with JUMBO isolator.
 

PS: thanks for reading my boring post and helping out so much.

Aspire isolator help...
 

LOL. I wish it were a truck. Its a 1996 ford aspire. LMAO! anyways ran everything from 6aga to 2aga. accessory wire is still on the 6awg. I like having everything on the 2nd battery. and having the starter battery with nothing but the starter. Because I am always putting the key in to use some accessory. lighter, radio, tvs, laptop ect.. something (i havent figured out what) keeps killing my main battery.. which is why i decided to put the second battery. maybe too many memory items, maybe the alarm being it has the option for 2 way paging who knows. i will take pictures of my rewiring and post. if the second battery is just weak.. then it will fire up well because the primary battery has nothing on it, so it has the cranking amps I want (especially being its been so cold out)... I went ahead purposly and left my headlights on.. killing the 2nd battery. then tried starting it. Wouldnt go.. disconnected the main accessory wire, and tapped it on the main battery, and it fired up. do they make a double throw relay, or a large switch capable of switching my main accessory like you mentioned doing with the radio?

any ideas?
 

Well I tried it again. Use them black 40amp relays. Between the main accessory wire and the battery under the hood.. left headlights on. Went to crank when it was dead! no start. Pushed the momentary button while holding button it started! its this ok do? or will bypassing isolator eventually screw it up?

Isolator installation...More problems PLZ help
 

Someone PLZ take a look at the diagram below. For some reason my second battery doesnt seem to be charging as good as the starting battery. If you notice the red circles thats where my question lies... where it shows the main fuse is where the big circle bolt was connected to the car. I Removed that, and ran a wire from that DIRECTLY to the isolators alternator input.. but the other one comming off the harnass runs to a big fuse labeled head.. which when pulled makes the headlights go out.. The diagram shows it connecting in junction with the main.. and the smaller one going for the charge idiot light.. My question should the red one be drawn to the ALT leg on the isolator with the main power wire (bolt one) or what? I never installed an isolator before.. But I have a total of three wires. and this application is tricky because its a ford.. but mazda makes the engine!
http://i41.tinypic.com/qq921l.jpg

Isolator Expert Plz Read!!!
 

Above post Plz Read:
Added info:
Checked the steps outlined online for general isolator testing.

Running I have around 14v on second battery.. And 14.9 on battery 1. ALT is pushing 15.4 it seems as if both batteries are getting charge. So I think the back one is dying, But still want to know if the red wire from my last post should stay connected to the fuse block under the hood, or go with the battery output that was moved to the ALT input on this vanner isolator. Also read that scottych (however you spell it) diodes in this isolator are best.. I got it out of an ambulance so assuming this is this the best possible setup?

Hey some nuckle head was arguing with me over this topic saying relays are better so I found this old post on google.. I have resolved the issue and have all the oem stuff on the front battery and pc,amps ect on the back battery... hasnt failed me yet and if in the even i need a "Self jump" i use the relay to temporarly bridge both batteries together.. So awsome to be fishing and listen to the radio and ppl wonder why i never have to start my car .. radio goes off.. you hear "uh oh" he is gonna need a jump.. hear a click (more like a pound) and Vrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrmmmmmmmmmmm LOL


Thanks you all for kind regards on getting me setup with this foolproof setup.. 2 yellow tops later its PurFect!

I been hanging out at fordaspire.com where they too are amazed at this car :)

hi guys, hows all ya's day going?
quick question since were on the topic of isolators.
i have a 2000 explorer xls 4x4 with the 4.0 ohv 6cylender. i recently got a NOCO igd140hp isolator and have it installed underhood, everything is all nice and what have you. well ran my cable from alt to inline fuse beside fuse box underhood, then from there to my center (alt) post on isolator. front batt post to front batt and so on. now my only issue is, i have no power whats so ever. but testin my battery wit DMM and its reading 12.4v well within proper voltage. now the only post on my iso is the tiny one for like a 'hot' line i wanna think its for, but wasnt sure if i was to have it hooked up or not?
thanks in advance:-jammin

well i just figured out my issue..a true DUH! moment lol
from alt to alt on isolator..battery 1 to fuse, fuse to battery.
im living up to my blonde hair lol

old Thread, But now I have an explorer
 

So I still have the vanner isolator. I have a 94 ford explorer and this brings this thread back to mind. I have noticed on a few cars (the aspire, and a Volvo 240 dl) when putting the isolator between the main leg of the isolator the alternator will not charge, or it kills the alternator. Does anyone know why? I was told some need this voltage to travel both ways so the alternator can read the battery correctly. On of the cars it worked but I had to rev the engine past 2K before it started to charge. With this ford explorer can I directly mount this isolator? I plan to do the push button to jump start. I was at walmart today with just the main battery and it froze within the time I was shopping. So we froze for about 30 min because they don't offer boost anymore (maybe lawsuit) anyways can someone confirm this type working with this isolator? I have used relay type before with success, but found the engaging of the relay when the aux battery is dead shortens the life of the batteries.. Any help would be appreciated.

I have ran into this. using the wires you have connected to the isolator connect them all together and see if it works, if so you have a bad isolator.