1973/74 F100 302 EGR Spacer Plate
 

D7PZ9A589B .. EGR Spacer Plate / Obsolete

Bob Allen Ford in Overland Park KS has 1: 800-676-0675

Kinsel L/M in Beaumont TX has 1: 800-816-2894

Collectors Auto Supply in Oroville WA has 22: 800-414-4462

greensalescompany.com in Cincinnati, OH has 1: 800-543-4959

Miller Obsolete Parts in Binghamton NY has 6: 800-546-7278

Wesley Obsolete Parts in Liberty KY has ? The obsolete parts locator system sez they have 354 (!). I doubt that's correct, prolly a typo: 606-787-5293

Since these are original Ford spacer plates, they came with the gaskets originally.

Make sure they're still with the spacer.

There are TWO different EGR valves listed. If needed, pass along the number from the old one, if it's still there (it was glued onto the valve with a crescent shaped label originally).

btw: Don Sanderson Ford doesn't have any.

I really appreciate all the help you guys have offered, this has been a major pain! I have another question though. Since the EGR plate was full of crud, isn't the intake also full of crud? It looks to me like I may need an intake as well to properly fix the problem.

The jets seem to flow air pretty well and I was able to get some carb cleaner in them so I THINK they are ok but I could certainly be wrong.

ND, the EGR valve # is still very clearly visible and is D3BE-9D475-A2B with a BIG 028 at the very end. Thanks for posting the info on those who may have some. I spent some time last night searching the web and the only thing I came up with was an Edelbrock intake that comes with the plate.

I drive by Bob Allen Ford twice a day...if you need me to stop by and take a look at it, I'd be happy to.

D3BE-9D475-A2B = D3BZ9D475A .. EGRValve / Obsolete

Fits: 1973/74 F100 302/C4 / 1973/74 Bronco 302/C4.

No Ford dealer or obsolete parts vendor has one.

I tried the other EGR valve p/n listed for a 1973 (& 1974) F100 302/C4: D3OZ9D475A, no one has that one either.

There's still another one listed for a 1974 F100 302/C4: D4TZ9D475E.

I found two of these. What's the difference?

It uses the same gaskets and spacer plate, so the difference is internal. What that difference is, I dunno, but it's prolly slight since it fits the same application that D3BZ9D475A does.

D4TZ9D475E / greensalescompany.com has one: 800-543-4959 / Ed Bennett Ford Parts in Lebanon PA has one: 717-272-8762

Before buying it...I suggest you get an opinion from FTE member fmc400 on whether he thinks it'll work...or not.

i think my 77 F100 uses the same carb kit, and it needs rebuilding leaks and smells up the garage and then the whole house. I'll get the tag number so you can verify kit number. Anyone near Lake Tapps Washinton that can overhaul my carb?

Ed

ND: Last time the local shop did an inventory check on Sanderson Ford in AZ? It was about 6 months or so back LOL. Our own local inventories from the dealership showed several in central NY via the computer. However after a "Reality Check"? Found the inventory on all these older parts didn't match up worth a poo.

For what it's worth? I'd highly recommend Green Sales. I've have dealings with them before, and have always found their service and speed to check/verify/ship to be very decent.

S-

I've been dealing with Green Sales for over 40 years, so you don't have to tell me how great they are!

I used to call them 3-5 times a week, when I was working. The West LA area I worked in was loaded with old cars and trucks, and the ppl that owned them had the means to fix them...and wanted them fixed.

Even after I retired, I still called them, and I call them now...to verify they have the parts, before I post the info.

This paid...err...non paid advert... LOL (Just Kidding LOL)

Actually I have the greatest respect for companies that take up the mantle for our older cars and trucks. Green Sales, NPD, Rock Auto, and Jeff's Bronco Graveyard are the current sponsors I have used with great success. It's very telling on how they treat their customers, and their service with me has been top notch.

I've been poking around for EGR valves on the usual store sites. Found quite a few near-hits. The last 3 letters on that valve seem to be making an exact match quite hard. It might have to come down to finding one that is close enough to the factory one, provided it mounts exactly the same way. Then tweak things slightly so the function is as close to factory as possible. I'd go as far to suggest replacing it, with the spacer/gaskets. And just leaving it unhooked until we get the rest of things more inline. Then once everything else is worked out? Hooking it back up and seeing how well it works, and making minor adjustments accordingly.

S-

So you guys don't seem to think that a new intake is in order? Those passages appear clogged to me. If the intake is clogged then the egr plate won't function will it?

If your intake is completely clogged I would be surprised.

How the heck did you get that much krap in the EGR? Muddobbers?

You're right that the EGR won't function with the crossover passage blocked off, but it'd be a shame to have to replace the entire intake just because of that. At the very worst you could remove it and try to remove the debris with a chemical.

I'll try to clean it out. Muddobbers? No, likely the cavity was just backfilled with dust over the years. The po drove the truck down 1/2 mile of dirt road twice a day, every day for 33 years. Hopefully all this will result in a smooth, consistent idle.

Actually if it's packed with black crap that is rock hard? That's called good ol' Carbon deposits. (no--not the 'carbon footprint' we keep hearing about)

Over time it builds up and cakes onto any surface it comes into contact with. So I wouldn't throw the PO under the bus just yet (although I'm sure the PO was a POW (piece of work)) himself.

The actual cause is probably just over time build up, and if the truck was running just a bit to rich? That would create some extra carbon in the exhaust that would make it up to that passageway.

Sorry that I can't make a good recommendation for a cleaner. Something like this to clean out might just wind up coming down to repeated soaking in something like B12, letting it soften up..and then just about scraping it out.

S-

B12 usually works the best for those kinds of things.

off topic, Tedybear, congrats on number 500!

Good lord...Elder user? LOL..

S-