Air Conditioning!!!
So I live in Miami Fl and it is hotter than a mother ****** here, my truck has the whole system for the r12 in it, but the houses are all conected with clamps, if I was to attempt to to charge it with r134 would those houses bust ? and if so how much would it cost to rebuilt my ac system?
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What kind of truck? Your BIO only says a '98 Expo which should be R134A.
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Sorry its a 1988 f-250 5.0
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Your hoses wouldn't bust, but your compressor would kill itself in short order. You either need to source out some R12, or do an R134a conversion.
The conversion consists of purging and cleaning every refrigerant line, replacing the filter/dryer, and draining the oil out of the compressor, and flushing it with the proper R134a oil (Forgot which oil it is specifically) |
freon
e-bay has lots of r-12 for sale.:-X0A6
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Originally Posted by Lead Head
(Post 6372648)
Your hoses wouldn't bust, but your compressor would kill itself in short order. You either need to source out some R12, or do an R134a conversion.
The conversion consists of purging and cleaning every refrigerant line, replacing the filter/dryer, and draining the oil out of the compressor, and flushing it with the proper R134a oil (Forgot which oil it is specifically) The Oil is called Pag oil. Lead Head is correct for the most part.If you do the conversion don't forget the orvist(sp?) tube with the accumulater.If you decided tackle this project yourself What ever you do DO NOT MIX R-12 WITH 134-A. The refigerant will be comtaminated and most likely SCREW UP THE WHOLE A/C SYSTEM. As far as E-bay selling R-12 it might be what we called freeze 12 which is close to R-12, I think its a law around my area and possably a Federal law to have the proper license to buy R-12.Around Here it's $60.00 per Pound of R-12 |
Your hoses won't burst, but you still have to replace them with "barrier" hoses. R134a molecules are smaller than R12 and will leak right thru the nitrile hoses your truck has. Barrier hoses have a solid inner plastic liner to prevent this.
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"...don't forget the orvist(sp?) tube ..."
I think Tom-Play meant Orfice Tube and he is right they are different size orfices. I know they make special fluid to flush out the system but have no clue how to use the stuff. |
So n general I'd have to replace the drier flush the system, and hope for the best electrically wise right? that doesnt sound too bad!
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ORIFICE tube.
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alright thanks guys
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Cheapest route is to let the pros do it for you. Had mine done for ~$375, including replacing the pressure switch, which was the source of the leak.
A/C is pretty much NOT a DIY project. Jason |
Originally Posted by Maniac
(Post 6374495)
"...don't forget the orvist(sp?) tube ..."
I think Tom-Play meant Orfice Tube and he is right they are different size orfices. I know they make special fluid to flush out the system but have no clue how to use the stuff. Now back 2 the subject. Your basic Automotive A/C Recovery machine can pull both the Refigerent and the oil Out of the system. If You can get your hands on One you'll be in great shape to DIY. I forgot to mention and everyone overlooked was to Replace the O-rings and the Springs for the Spring Lock Conections if you Open the System up. If you open the system without replacing The O-rings and The Springs for the Spring Lock connections the Chances are high that the A/C System Can leak at the Connections which would bring us back to square One. IMO if you can't get your hands on a Automotive A/C Recovery Machine then take the Truck to Somebody you know and trust like Jason mentioned. |
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