1995 F-150 Oil Pan
 

My buddies got a 1995 F-150, 2 wheel drive 5.8 litre that needs an oil pan. The manual says to undo the engine mounts and get the motor propped up. Can this be done by puttin the truck up on ramps and goin from underneath?

Im going to be helpin him with the job so any input/advice I can get I appreciate. Thanks in advance.

No. The clearance needed between the engine and the crossmember can only be achieved by lifting the engine.

Bummer........

One more question:
I did the search for oil pan (shoulda done it in the first place, sorry), bout how long does this process take, couldn't seem to find the answer to that in all the other posts. I'm pretty good mechanicaly, and gonna have one or two friends around to help.

I had to put a new oil pump in a '96 E-250 van with 5.8L. I also helped with a '94 F150 302 4x4 and it was similar. First I removed the distributor and took the radiator fan off of the water pump so it wouldn't hit the shroud. Then I put the van up securely on jack stands so I could roll under it on a creeper. Then I unbolted the engine mounts and raised the engine by its harmonic balancer, using a floor jack with a piece of a 4"x4" about a foot long. I raised the engine up until the intake plenum hit the underside of the dash (will be different for you since its a pickup, not a van) and then put blocks of wood between the engine mounts and the spot they bolt to on the frame, and took out the jack. Once the engine was lifted and the pan bolts out, the pan drops down, but you have to unbolt the oil pump (2 bolts) and pickup tube (1 nut at the #3 main bearing) before the pan can come out. You have to put the pump in the pan and get everything in place and do the reverse to reinstall. Easy to disassemble but a real pain in the a** to reassemble. If you change the oil pump, make sure its not bigger than the old one, it could hit the crank throws or rub a hole in the pan. Be sure to prime the oil pump before you put the distributor back in. Make sure you use a one-piece oil pan gasket unless you want it to leak. Good luck!

In my '93, I also had to remove the intake plenum, the passenger-side exhaust manifold, as well as unbolt the tranny from its crossmember and raise the rear of the tranny about 2". Even with all that, it was still tight.

Jason

How long depends on how many bolts snap while removing the exhaust. The two times I've done them, the studs on the manifold to y-pipe snap. Be prepared.

Like MintFord said... I did my 97 F250 5.8 that way. It was really tight, I was actually surprised that I got the oil pump back on - what a b**tch. But it beat pulling the engine or the plenum (which would have required removing crumbling, rusty exhaust tubes.)

As for the exhaust pipe bolts... heat. I refuse to do anything dealing with exhaust unless there gas in the oxy/acetylene tanks... :)

To tell you guys the truth, I think I'm gonna pass on this job, its not my truck just a friends, if it was mine I'd tackle the job but different story. Man, just never thought it woulda been such a job, its pretty much the same thing with my 7.3 diesel too, gotta do alot of crap to do the oil pan.

Good plan.

I pretty much do all of my own work on my vehicles, if I don't know how I learn and git on it. I read up on this for my 94 4x4 (rusted pan replacement) and decided to pass...I paid my local mechanic to do it, best $300 I EVER spent 8D

Sam

Don't blame you a bit - it ain't rocket science, just a PIA. On mine, the choice was do it myself or pay someone else to do it. And the more of a PIA the job is, the more it'll cost to have someone else do it. So the worse the job, the better the chance I'll be doing it myself. Just doesn't seem right, does it? :)