Nice work, Evan.

Swapped out the shredded shifter boot for a good one from an Explorer and got the nasty window tint off (1 side anyway)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ps18e9615a.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ps047802c8.jpg

I am now replacing my 3rd ECU from Napa, Napa said I had the wrong ECU because I have a 5 speed tranny. The replacement Napa sold me was for a 4 speed tranny.

I have 4 speed with OD is that considered 5 speed?

I was going to change the oil today, but after the run to the salvage yard I went and visited family and didn't get home till the sun was down. I decided while driving back that my headlights suck without the relay harness in and I began to rebuild the harness. Got about half way through and ran out of electrical tape and determination. I can only handle so much soldering with a propane torch in one sitting...

On another note I scored a near perfect cluster bezel today. It came from a '95 F150.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/1.../img_15781.jpg

Other than a couple tiny spots that will go away with a good cleaning, it looks brand new. All of the mounting points are in perfect shape as well. But being for a '95 and that my bezel is in great shape as well, it is for sale up on ebay so I can make some gas money.

Decided to spruce up the interior a little. My 93 XL has no interior storage at all, and the headliner was sagging so I fixed both. Got the fabric on Ebay, enough to do my truck and my sons, and installed a Shelf-it for a little storage.

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t...psny0fjzk4.jpg

Did a tune up and now this baby runs! Also replaced a freeze plug Monday and refilled the radiator, no leaks, $40 fix for what the shop would probably charge $300! Fix it yourself and save!

I think I'm almost convinced to swap my interior back to the grey it originally was.

The maroon I have now, has been in 2 trucks, and is starting to look a bit..Shabby.

As for what I did to my truck?

I cleaned it out at work...

• Slid the seat forward, and collected all the loose change.
• Swept under the seat, and re-routed the seatbelt receptacles back into position (They'd fallen down)
• Collected all the stuff from inside the truck, and sorted it out. which cleared a LOT of space out in the interior.
• Re-positioned my amplifier to under the seat, so now I have some storage areas behind the seat again

Painted the rear bumper I picked up an Aluminum color. It will do for now till I can find a chrome bumper. Got to get it mounted now just waiting for a decent day to cut off the welded on mounts.
Trav

Just finished extending the wires for my windshield wiper pump.

Now I gotta get a section of tubing and an inline hose barb fitting and I'll have the relocation done.

Just need to either fab up a support brace for the Drivers Side Battery tray mount, or better yet, pick one off a JY diesel truck.

That's the ONLY thing I need now, to fit the auxiliary battery in and wire it up.

-Ordered cab corners from Napa tonight
-Picked up some Carr Hoop II steps from a Facebook group member the other night

Doing far more part acquiring and not enough actual work on my truck. Hoping to buckle down and do some real work on it this coming May long.

Well, against my better judgement, allowed myself to be talked into changing the transmission filter and gasket. Voile! Now, it won't move forward OR backward, and tranny doesn't even try to kick down when I put it in gear.

So, I guess I'm either stuck looking for an E4OD, or, a 5-speed manual for change-out. I'm leaning towards the manual due to no luck finding an E4 for anything near what we can afford.

Help!! Suggestions, advice, part it out?

What makes you think your tranny is gone after changing the filter?

Well, I'm not a gearhead by anyone's estimation (should have paid more attention growing up), so forgive my ignorance and lack of expertise in the jargon.

Anyway.

Started awhile back, when my truck ('93 F250, 7.3 diesel, E4OD, 2WD) started to be very reluctant to move FORWARD. Moved Backward like a house afire, but, it would take seemingly forever to get moving forward, if at all.

Checked fluid level, found it a little low(turned out to be less than a quart), but smelled burned. When I put it in Reverse, you cold feel the 'kick down' as it went into gear. But when I put it in Drive, no kick down, no movement for a long time, almost as if the transmission were sliding into gear, then, slowly, would move forward a little. Most of the time just a couple of feet, but a couple of times, I actually got it to drive around the yard. This got me feeling a bit more optimistic, thinking, okay, maybe tranny is just not porting enough fluid, spools aren't fully opening, whatever. (Remember, not a gearhead, going off of hydraulics knowledge, so I may be totally out to lunch).

So, a couple of weeks ago, I put it up on stands, pulled the wheels, and cranked it, just to see what happens. Reverse, no sweat, as expected. But, in Drive, the wheels start turning, albeit slower.

Now, in the meantime, I had found the left rear brake drum to be extremely hard to remove, as I decided to replace the brake shoes while I had it in the air. A little more optimism, thinking maybe a locked-up brake drum is problem. When I finally got the drum off, sure enough, brake shoes are worn down to nearly nothing, and replaced both rear sets of shoes.

So, back to the transmission. I called a mechanic friend, who said the tranny might be trying to port fluid in both directions when in Drive. Said to start by changing filter. Now, I've always heard (even some places in these forums), don't change the filter and clean the pan(especially in high-mileage vehicles), as the shavings are actually aiding the transmission plates in engaging. BUT, I figure that my buddy knows infinitely better than I do, so I changed the filter and gasket.

Put the tires back on, take the truck down off jacks, crank the diesel, put it in Drive. No change. Deep sigh of disappointment. Put it in Reverse. Nothing there, either. No kick down, no movement. Hang head in despair. Look over at my wife, she has tears in her eyes, and says "I'm sorry". Me, too.

Pick up tools, put them away. Get on forums. No clue.

Steering has been getting sloppy, just had a alignment week later wheel is off center.

Tie rods, drag link, left inner tie rod new all motorcraft parts(outer tie rods done 4 months ago) old would roll up and down turning the wheel no slop other than that...203,000mi. Got my use out of them.

Steering shaft is sloppy, bought a borgenson.

Energy suspension poly axle pivot bushings will go in tomorrow(when I put my extended radius arms on I got sloppy on passenger side it pulled back the arm a little and now that it has been addressed bushing is junk and making noise).

Finally if that does not solve it all I will :-roll buy a steering box, I have adjusted it. I suspect it is my issue I have a saginaw pump on it and the fluid gets changed still has a oder going on. AGR? Red head?( I know the super duty guys like them) I refuse to buy A1 cardone's crap.

And finally wishing mine was a crew cab.
Curtis

Did some more work on the headlight relay harness V2. I did some mocking up and decided to make use of the two empty relay ports in the engine bay relay block. I will be ordering the correct terminals for the relay block soon and I will be running all the wires there. I think it will look much cleaner using the factory block over s couple random relays bolted to the inner fender. Anyways, here is the harness as of now. all that is left is to wire it into the relay block.

https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/.../img_15881.jpg

Yes it looks like a mess, but it is all 12AWG 100% copper wire, all the connections are soldered this time and each bulb has it's own ground. Overkill? Possibly, but my lights will hopefully be much brighter than they are right now.