AXLE ID NEEDEd
 

I need an axle id the axle is in a 03 250 7.3. The axle tag reads

3 V 423 C
L73 10 5 2G31

THE 3l73 IS 3.73 GEARS AND A LIMITED SLIP
THE 10 5 IS THE SIZE OF THE RING GEAR 10.5"
CAN'T HELP WITH THE REST.

05 super covered the important parts. The 3V423C is the plant code and 2G31 is the date code of where and when it was built.

So is this a Dana 60 or is it something else?

No, it's the Ford 10.5" axle not the Dana 80 or 135

Yea I somehow managed to get two posts going on this ne ways i have a leaky pinion seal and I am stuck on the repair i do not know how pull the wheel that the yoke bolts too is there a special tool ne hwlp would be appreciated

Is this what you're looking for?

This is the job but I have a different set up in mine there is a circular plate coming out with the pinion in the middle if i can remove the platei could get to the seal i definitely did not plan on pulling the pinion although it seems unavoidable i thought this would be a simple fix ie. remove drive shaft pull plate out replace seal otherwise i dont have required tools

ok I see what is going on I will get tools required and try to finish tonight update tomm hopefully

The procedures posted by F350-6 are the correct procedures. You will need to pull the yoke to do this. It is also of the utmost importance that you take that pre-removal preload measurement. Failure to do this can result in messing up your rear end leaving you stuck on the side of the highway.

What is the pre removal preload measurements?

has anyone else done this? is it neccesary to remove brake calipers? also I removed pinion nut prior to receiving these instruction can anyone give me the torque specs if i do not need to remove calipers i could get puller and pull flange and replace seal tonight but i do need the tq specs if anyone could help i hope I havent screwed up too bad

There isn't a torque spec on the nut....it uses a crush collar.
I'm not sure what the rec. spec is off the top of my head for the rolling resistance.

What is rec spec? and how do I find out how much to tighten as well as do i need a new pinion nut Im pretty sure that i do

However you do this, do it the same every time.
Place the rear of the vehicle on jackstands. If the tires are on for this measurement, make sure they are on for the reinstall measurement. If you pull the tires, then make sure the tires are off for the reinstall. Same principle with the calipers.

Next, using a torque wrench that measures in inch pounds, measure the force needed to rotate the rear end when you turn it via the nut in the middle of the yoke. Record this measurement and then during reinstallation you torque the pinion nut until you achieve this same amount of rolling resistance. This ensures the bearing preload is identical to what it was when you took everything apart.

The way I was taught, pull everything, wheels and calipers, then measure the rotational resistance before you pull it apart(IT being the pinion nut that holds the yoke on); however, different guys do it differently and you should be ok if you leave everything on, just so you do it the same every time.

I missed where you already took it apart. If you haven't pulled the yoke off yet, you may be able to gingerly try and get this measurement. In the meantime, I will look and see if i can find the OEM specs.

ok good but I already pulled the pinion nut and have no idea how much resistance to put back on

i was replying while u were thanks alot for ur help tho how do i get this measurement with the nut off? Maybe i dont understand how the measurement is taken i thought it was via turning the nut

Yes, you are turning the nut, but you have to have the axle off the ground so the tires are not touching the ground anymore. You are simulating the input power of the driveshaft. There is a certain amount of preload, or deliberate pressure on the pinion bearing, the resistance of which can be measured. By turning the nut, all you want to do is rotate the whole axle assembly, measuring how much force it takes to turn it. There are two different measurements on the pinion nut. One, is the force applied to crush the crush sleeve, and this is in the hundreds of foot pounds(this is measured with the yoke blocked so it can't rotate. The second, is the force required to rotate the yoke after the nut has been run down and the crush sleeve crushed This measurement is typically only a matter of a few inch pounds. As described earlier, this is done with the axle assembly free to rotate.

It looks like my attachment got cut short. I meant to include more info. I'll add these. After a quick review it looks like 20 in lbs. is what you're looking for. Hopefully miker67 can confirm this

Ok but I do not need to go thru all of those steps if i want to replace only the seal correct, just confirming thanks for the info

No that was just some additional info I meant to include earlier so you had a better feel for what you were looking at.

10 4 thanks alot guys if u have any more input love to hear it otherwise I will try to get to project tonight and update tomm

20 inch pounds sounds correct. That was the number I had in my head, but I didn't want to say without verifying it. The first PDF file has all the steps you should need, but I would suggest you read the other two carefully as well. It will help give you an understanding of how the differential is assembled, so that the whole preload/rotational torque concept makes more sense.

Yeah, but 20 in-lbs is with just the pinion installed, and doesn't take into account the preload on the carrier bearings and drag from anything else installed. Unfortunately it is critical to take the measurement before hand. However, it takes a HUGE amount of torque to crush the sleeve altering the preload. In these cases, torquing the poinion nut down to 50 to 75 lb-ft is adequeate and won't mess the preload. You can also check it because it should remove all of the lateral lash from the pinion.

so u r saying I should torque it to somewhere between 50 and 75 lbs?