94 radiator core support replacement
 

Hello all.
My trusty often worked on F-150 with 302. The radiator core support is rotted at the bottom and needs replacement. Already figured from looking and reviewing always helpful info on here about what it will take to replace it. Now looking at replacement parts I find prices from under a $100 to several hundred and shipping from $45.00 to over a hundred. For core support I want to do this once and never again. Is there a difference in quality of these parts? Or just difference in profits for resellers? Also looking at replacement hood, which ranges from $79.00 to $400.00 before painting. Would like to replace chrome grille, chrome head light surrounds and chrome bumper with molding. All have prices in large ranges as well. Any expereince with replacement parts input is appreciated. Is some of it junk? any particular place or places selling junk that would be good to steer clear of ?
Thank you
Andy 63 :-X06

My truck also needs to have the radiator core support replaced. Its rotten below the radiator on the passenger side. It also has some rust scattered all over the rest of the bottom. Its not horrible though. One day I will replace it. I too am interested in which ones are better or worse than others. I did just order a pair of door sill repair panles from LMC. I will let you know what I think of the quality of those parts when I get them. I got an aftermarket chrome grille and headlight surround set from an ebay store for about 50 bucks including shipping. They look like they are just as good as the oem parts, but looks can be decieving. I think the core support from LMC is about 200 dollars.

Ok have all parts coming. Total with shiping 406 and change. Next questions. I only want to do this core support 1 time. Any recommendation for paint or coating I can do myself on at least lower part of core support so it will not rust out again in a few years? Is it possible to do this swap without having to drain and remove radiator? Looks like it may be if radiator is supported during swap. Was thinking of 2 step ladders with 2x4 across and heavy wire to support radiator. As always thanks for the help would be harder to do this stuff without all of your help.
Andy 63

I replaced my core support on my 86 a year or so ago, I didn't need to take out the radiator. All I did was have someone hold it while we switched the old one for the new one.

Good to know will save a bunch of time.
How about all the information stickers on the core support. Does anyone offer these even ford? I have restored a 65, 66 and a 73 Mustangs and helped with other older car restoration and stickers are availabe for these.
Andy 63

I think LMC truck might have the information stickers you are looking for

I forgot to mention this before regarding your first questions. I have an aftermarket replacement stock style rear bumper on my F150, and I think that it is just about as good as the OEM one was. I have had it for a couple years and no problems with it. It looks almost exactly the same as the original one. Even the pattern of the tread on the plastic step on top of the bumper looks the same.

I agree, I think LMC has them. NPD has some also. It might be that you have to get them from both to make a set though. I never really looked to see what was actually available. I was wondering the same thing. If and when I change mine, I want to be able to put the stickers back too. Where did you decide to get your parts from?

I too am interested in any tips or even a description of a step by step on how to replace the core support. As for coatings and paint etc. I am about to try out Rust Bullet on a door sill situation with rust. From what I understand you can use it on good metal to protect it from UV rays, elements, rust, corrosion etc. It leaves a silver metallic finish. So, you might consider that. I ordered a starter kit of their automotive stuff for my door sills for 20 bucks. I'm not sure how much you would need for the support though.

The 92-96 body style Ford trucks are my favorite of the later model trucks, but I have always really like the 80-86 quite a bit. We used to have an 85. I really prefer the 84-86 grille and hood. I like the smooth hood and grille with emblem better than plain grille with FORD letters on the hood. Anyway, the point of this comment is to say that I like your 86 stepside. Thats probably about how I would set it up if I had it. Sweet truck!

I also have a aftermarket rear bumper that came with truck. It is nice and has held up to date.

I have LMC and NPD catalog requests in and will look for stickers. Also planning on going to spring Carlisle and have a list of stuff to look for there.

For parts ordered 117 dollars including shipping worth of bolts, washers, upper and lower rubber bushings etc. for core support from LMC. Seems expensive and I may be able to reuse some old but why. I may have to grind or cut bolts to get old support off. This does not include all the small hardware for stuff bolted to core support. Will have to see how that goes and run back and forth to local places for this stuff. Wish there was a kit for this small hardware. Old car resotrations have hardware kits sometimes. Ordered core support, front grille and headlight surrounds from Pershing auto online for 238 including shipping. I hope this core part is good quality and fits. I could have got a used core support but they are all on there way to rusting. Ordered 1 spray can, one touch up bottle and 1 can clear from automotive touchup.com. They had lowest price I could find. Been looking at auto parts stores for a few years and they never stock paint color for my truck.

Looking at old core support it looks like it may have rusted from inside out. Will compare with new one and see if it would help to drill small drain holes. Will have to figure out how to get coating inside new one when I receive it. May try silver bullet. Just used Eastwood spray can rust encapsulator last weekend and spent a day cleaning up rear leaf spring hangers, shackles etc. and coating them. Was able to breathe again in only a few days. Yes I used a n-95 face mask.

I agree great looking 86 step side. Have been looking at Trucks on the road lately and do not care for the rounded off flipped over bathtub look of later year Ford Trucks and cars that Ford went with for awhile. The newer ones look ok and I am getting used to them but not sure I like the high bed sides.
Happy Friday on the shortest weekend of the year.
Andy63...

I wouldn't drill any small holes. They would just likely hold crud and dirt then rust out the support faster. When I replaced mine, I sprayed the bottom 6" with a can of undercoat spray. Just make sure you get some good stuff, that dries. Dupli-color truck bed/undercoat works great. Get all the nooks and crannies and you should be fine.

Thanks for the compliments, since that pic was taken last summer, I've replaced the front fenders, and both doors, upgraded to power locks/windows. I don't see many of these trucks on the road around here, so I'm glad I have one.

FYI guys.
Attempting to get correct replacement decals for core support. LMC for 94 only has fuel pump shut off. NPD still waiting for catalog from what I can see online they have none that are correct for 94. Both LMC and NPD have more correct ones for older trucks. Here is cut and paste reply from directfordparts:
"These are totally different to order. They are handled in a different way. We would need the numbers off of the labels to try to order them. Then we have to write them on a card and mail that in. It usually takes about 3 weeks to get them back and we won't know which ones are or are not available until they ship them to us. I have seen it take months to receive them. This might be something that you want to handle through your local dealer."
I guess built ford tough core supports, leaf spring hangers, spring pockets never rust or need to be replaced otherwise why would Ford not think that anyone replacing this stuff would want to do it correctly and need replacment decals.
Also received core support. Now I see why they rust out from the inside on the bottom. Entire bottom is hollow and full of small holes. I have been trying my best for several days to get paint everywhere inside this thing and it is not going to be possible short of filling up a long narrow container with paint and dipping the entire bottom of the core support several times. I can not afford that much paint for a 1 time thing.
Andy63

Thank all of you for help. Finished replacing radiator core support this weekend. Ended up torching off the rubber and metal bushings. After that everything went together fine with no extra parts left over etc :). Since old support rusted out where it made metal to metal contact with bushings I used grease and coated the washers bushings and core support where they all contact. The old washers had cut part way through the bolt from vibration over the years I guess. Whole project including hunting parts took about 40 hours. Moved the jacking instructions sticker, received fuel pump shutoff sticker from LMC. Still not sure what to do about the rest.
Thanks again all.
Andy63

Glad everything went together good for ya, did you happen to snap any pictures while doing the swap?

Sorry I did not take any pictures. The process is pretty much straight forward. Have to take this part off to get this off etc. Painted after market core support with several coats of chassis paint. Painted top part to match truck. Put 2 coats of 3M rubberized undercoating along bottom of support. I left headlights attached to plastic grill reinforcement panel. No nead to take them off and have to mess with adjusting them after putting them back. Had to repair my plastic panel. it was cracked at the middle bottom. My truck had hit a deer and was repaired before I got it. Used epoxy and a piece of role strap. painted it after to prevent rust. Also put new bulbs in parking lights, marker lights. Make sure to test them before putting the thing back together. I had one new one that was bad and had to pull the drivers side maker light assembly after to change it. I did buy a bunch of metal clips and plastic push in panel holders at the local auto parts store. Allot of the smaller original ones were broken or rusty. Larger ones with nuts were ok. Reused hood bumpers they were fine. Used liquid wrench/ pb Blaster on everything coming apart and going back together. Reused 4 lower metal fender washers with new bolts and clips to hold plastic wheel well liner to bottom edges of core support. Much easier to transfer bottom 2 rubber radiator isolator pads to new core support and pull there little rubber tabs through bottom holes while the entire support is out of the truck. To hold radiator and ac while swapping core support used 2 step ladders with a 2x4 across. Used some solid copper wire I had around through bolt mounts and rubber isolator bushings to lift and tie radiator and AC slightly up out of the way as best as I could. AC part has to turn slightly to go through. Wired trans cooler to front upper valance to move it enough out of the way and did not have to take it off. Did not have to drain radiator or mess with AC. After putting everything back together I had to adjust radiator fan shroud and radiator top bolts to prevent plastic fan shroud from hitting top of fan blades. Moved it all up slightly. Getting old support out and putting new one in is a push and tug a bit at a time kind of thing. Had to bend outer lower corner edges of both supprts where they attach to plastic wheel well to get them out and in. Not much and bend right back with hands. Must say aftermarket core support went in and all holes matched up for bolts clips etc. ok with exception of holes along the bottom underneith that plastic push in panel mounts go into to hold rubber splash guard between front bumper and core support on. Only outer 2 matched, rest did not. Not a big deal though. Replacement after market headlight surrounds are not that great. They needed to be filed in several places to make them fit and even then they are so cheaply made drivers side one already has a crack in bottom corner. Comparing them to originals shows the difference. Originals are thicker inside and have ridges to make them stronger. After market are thin and flat inside. After market replacement grill is ok but cheaply made inside edges are crappy. They are not seen but again comparing to original shows the difference. Time will tell how they hold up. Also not sure why entire truck is metric? Even trans pan is stamped Ford Metric. Hope this helps.
Andy63