need help timimg a 5.4
 

Chains dont have timing marks. books dont show the right motor. both cams twisted when we removed the timing chains. is there a certain way the chains go.

timing 5.4
 

I also found this confusion when refering to the manual trying to find timing marks. I you clean the chains you will notice the two links are slightly gold colored compared to the others. also if straighten the chain out the two links should be equal distance from each other. straight across from each other though when you install them looks are deceiving it doesnt look like even distance but it is.those tensioners are tricky too.

There should be a timing mark on the crank pulley that lines up with a mark on the block when the engine is at #1 cylinder TDC, plus there are timing marks on the cam sprockets. From past experience YOU CANNOT CHECK THAT THE TIMING MARKS ARE STILL LINED UP!!! it is easy to end up 1 tooth off.

Here is how to time a 5.4:
If you can't see the gold links on the chain lay it on a table and stretch it out like this
========= at one end the link will be like l and the other end will be = . Mark all 3 links with white paint or something that will not rub off. These are your timing marks. Turn the crank so the key is at 12 o-clock and there will be a line on the crank sprocket at 7 o-clock. Set the left cam timing mark to 12 o-clock and the rt cam to 11 o-clock. Install the straight guides and the left chain first placing the single white link on the crank mark and the double white links on either side of the cam mark. Repeat for the right side then install the tensioner arms and then the tensioners. You need to compress the tensioners before you can install them. Stick a small screwdriver in the lock to release it and push in the plunger. Then push in the small ratchet arm and insert a small pin or paper clip into the hole to hold the tensioner retracted. Double-check the marks before you install the timing cover. DONT forget the crank sensor trigger wheel or you will be chasing a no-start concern (don't ask how I know LOL)

setting the timing on a 5.4
 

Hi I'm setting the timming on a 5.4 have every thing exactly as you postted but just a few questions is the #1 piston supposed to be tdc if so witch one is #1 left frount or right frount.

Passenger front cylinder is #1.
JL

None of the pistons will be at TDC if the marks are lined up right. The only thing that matters is the marks you put on the chains line up with the cam and crank marks.

Thank you for the lessons, I sure need them, Bill

If you rotate the crank while the chain is off you will certainly bend some valves. These are interference engines. READ THE MANUAL CAREFULLY!

5.4 3v timing jumped??
 

sounds like you may know some of the Modular stuff? I have the valve cover off on drivers side, oil filler off on passangers side to see inside-crank at TDC, drivers side is a bit to the rt, say 1:00 instead of 12:00. if i bring the crank back to 10 btc it is straight up and down. is this a possibility it is off a tooth? i havent pulled the pass vc due to ac restrictions yet, but is the an accurate way to check this? getting a p0340 and all wiring and PCM tests good, runs bad and dies with cmp plugged in. is there enough clearence in the valve to piston ratio to not cause damage if this is off?
Thanks

You really need to take both valve covers off so you can see both cams and their marks and in the mean time I'll check my manual.

A big +1 on this. The crank positioning tool (which cost $80) is not even needed as long as you line up the marks on the timing chains.

5.4 SOHC cam Timing
 

If you send me your email address via PM I'll send the page on cam timing from my manual to you.

Yes, these engines will run if it's off by a tooth and a half. And that's all it takes to set a hard P0340. I would be looking at the timing chain guides as well. For what it's worth, I don't even bother with the Ford/Rotunda cam timing tools on any of these engines, be it a 2-valve, 3-valve or 4-valve engine. And so far, I haven't had any issue with timing these engines. All you need to do, is fold the chain exactly in HALF. The end with the two copper links (or two fabricated paint marks if the copper links are not visible) are lined up with the cam reference mark, and the single copper link is lined up with the mark on the crank sprocket, with the mark oriented at the 6 o'clock position. You then install the hydraulic timing chain tensioner, and repeat the process for the passenger side timing chain. DO NOT FORGET TO INSTALL THE CRANK SENSOR RING BEFORE YOU RE-INSTALL THE FRONT COVER.

And THAT, pretty much sums up the timing procedure on any 4.6/5.4/6.8L engine.

yup, what I said almost 2 yrs ago LOL

Thanks for you help guys- I will let you know the outcome.

Did you get the pages I e-d to you?

Edited at 8:03 PM
I just noticed your reply by email.

Okay, looking for help on verifying timing
 

I have set everything as suggested here and everywhere else I have found, turned the motor over by hand (it is out of the truck) and the marks don't seem to line back up again. Now I realize that it will need to rotate a few times but dose anyone know how many times. Also it seem that the closets it gets is one link off on the crank, the cam lines up again but the crank doesn't the link that is darker than the rest ends up hitting right behind the timing mark. Let me know any help that you guys can give. THanks

I have pics that don't seem to be posting here so let me know and I can e-mail them.

Crank - Right Chanin | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/rpinsky55/5012780031/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/rpinsky55/5012779837/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/rpinsky55/5012779447/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/rpinsky55/5012779171/

http://flic.kr/p/8CXNxT
http://www.flickr.com/photos/rpinsky...n/photostream/

Your marks will not line up again- they change as soon as the engine turns over. If you had them set correctly you are done.very close tolerences on this engine suggests that the timing marks be lined up exacty as specified in the book.

Thank you for the reply, I had everything lined up, I guess what is bothering me the most is, what everyone has said about the 12, 11, and 6 (or 7 depending on which version) o-clock. When I have all the marks lined up on the cams (i.e. 2 dark links) and the crank (one darker link) the crank is mark i at 5-5:30 and the keyway is at like 10.

Here look at these pics and let me know your opinion.

Right-Cam_3rd try | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
left-Cam_3rd try | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
crank-3rd try | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

Thanks

lets be sure on what year engine you have- the 5.4 from 2004- 2008 is the same

- 10:00 on the crank guide pin, dot on the bottom, 6:00. 12:00 on the rt cam and 1:00 on the left cam- single black link on bottom at 6:00, other 2 cams line- R for rt or a line. L for left lined up between the double dark links. the left cam will have tension on it unless your valve rollers are removed. I held it in place with vice grips locked down at 1:00. your pictures look opposite. I can send you the Ford picture if you send me a private message. the different diagrams out there get confusing.

The truck is a 2000 5.4L, 2v.

I think I sent you a PM, if I figured out how to do that correct.

Actually you have it set so you can't receive PM messages.

I think I understood what you were referring to with the guides.

How does it look now.

switched Guide- left | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
switched Guide - Right | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

Truthfully to be safe- I cant give a direct opinion. Mine is a 5.4 3v 2004, similir but different I think. My phazers look different and where the line ups are seem to be different also. I dont have diagrahms on a 2000 2v. I better opt out before I get you in trouble.

I need help to set up timing marks on a f 150 5.4 3v and as khackr said it is really confusing and i need some direction or pics of how to set up timing mrks.oh ya its a 2005. please help asap. Thanks.

I need help to set up timing marks on a 2005 ford f 150 5.4 3v. these diagrams r confusing please help asap.Thanks

Mech your marks look good just as long as the right side chain is lined up at the same place on the crank as the left chain. It doesn't really matter what o'clock the crank or cams are just as long as the marks line up. FGR look back a few pages to where I explained how to set the cam timing. The 3v engine is the same with the exemption of the L and R timing marks on the phasers. You line up the chain with the L mark on the driver's side phaser and the R mark on the passenger side phaser. If you don't have a L and R mark on your phasers then you have the old style that knocks and should be replaced to the updated design parts.

I just installed a new timing chain kit (chains, crank gear, chain guide, and tensioners) on my 97 f150 5.4l i did not time the engine with cylinder 1 at tdc...the chain has black links. the cam gear mark is between the two black links and the crank gear marks r in the center of the single black link... because i did not do this with cylinder1 at tdc can i be 180 degrees off? like on exhaust cyle verse intake cyle? just wondering if something i did was wrong, truck will not start. its getting fuel...i change the plugs while i was at it. i erased all the ecu codes. ive gotten 2 pops turning it over i tried starting fluid, still no difference i havent checked spark but im more concerned if i failed at the timing install?

From your description I would say your engine is out of time AND you may have bent some valves by trying to start it. At this point if the valves are bent there is little you can do about it without pulling the heads. There is a recent post that shows the timing set up and you might as well just try to get it right. Turn the engine over by hand to get your marks right and pray that you did no damage. If it starts and runs do a compression test to see if any valves are bent. It might just run good enough and then again, you might have gotten lucky and not bent any.

Did you do both cams or just one? If one then its possible to be 180 off on one cam. If you did both at the same time then just as long as the dark links lined up with the marks then you are in time.

k i have a 2007 250 5.4 3v, i had to pull head to remove plug ground sleeve did tensioners timed as best i could usin paint markers, n it ran pretty good, month n half later its givin me codes 22 n 20 i think left n right timing n so ford told me do my phasers n so i pulled my valve covers n the passenger n driver side phazers look to be at diff degrees can send pictures to any one who might have an idea wat the phazers should be sittin at, right now the pass one is like 5-10 degrees before where the driver side is sittin

Your signature speaks the truth; Lisle tool 65600 saved my butt!

It prob could have saved 2000LLR350'S butt too. 2000 you need to pull both valve covers and the timing cover and re-time it. Guessing with paint markers is not the way to do it. Look back a few pages where I explained how to time a 5.4. The 3v is the same except there are 2 timing marks on each phaser. You either have a R and a line or a R and a L. The R and line phaser is the old style and should be replaced. You line up the 2 links with the R on the passenger side and L on the driver's side. When you get it timed take a pic and post it here and we can tell you if you are right.

hey 70of100 k when i said the paint marks i had the L and Rs marked i had a red line up the letter then a white line a 1/4 inch of of the red on each side and re-read my thread i am talkin about a 2007 3v 5.4l f250 w the timin phazers marked w an L n R on opposite side of the phazer, im hopin the position is just a matter of how everyone is sayin that the one side would be positioned at 12 o clock n the other at 1 kinda thing. Got new phazers in truck had a whole lot more torque

But it still seems to want to do the chuggle periodically, especially in in 4x4 n playin in the snow drifts

but lookin at the old phazer on the table my old paint marks from when i pulled the heads looked to be pretty damn close to each other aswell as the single llink on the chains looked to be pretty damn close to each other aswell

when i put the engine back together i turned it over by hand it took like 400 revolutions n at first it the chains both landed one tooth before the timing dots on the phazers then few more turns n they were a tooth after the dot then another like 20 turns n they both hit the timing dots bang on

Um yeah I tried to read your post a couple of times. Guess I don't know how to read proper English. If yo had all the marks lined up when you put it back together then the cams are in time and are not the cause of the p0022 and p0020. Sounds like it needs more diagnostics than posting on forums can provide.

Hey all... I just want to make sure I did my timing correctly, can someone point out anything I did wrong. I'm working on a 1998 5.4L

I'm taking just the drivers side head off (to fix a blown plug) so of course I have to take both timing chains off.

My steps:
1) Put the crank in TDC
2) For each timing chain, I marked both of the chain links beside the cam mark
3) For each timing chain, I marked the chain link directly inline with the crank gear mark


As long as I put the timing chain in the exact same position according to the mark on the crank and cam gears... all is good... correct?!?


It sounds simple... I just don't want to be an idiot and overlook something easy.

As long as you do not move the crank you should be okay. You will need to use a cam holding device/tool before removing the cam chain so the valves do not hit the pistons. I have used vise grips on DOHC mororcycle engines with success. These are interference engines.

Ford cam tool


Pic won't paste. If you need the pic send me a PM and I'll email it.

Sent PM... I went to napa, advance, auto zone, pep boys and they didn't have the tool so I didn't use a cam holding tool... the cams didn't move a ton when i took off the timing chains though.

I'm glad it worked out for you. Ford says you must use the tool but apparently that is not always true. Good for you.