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-   1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks (https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum28/)
-   -   gaskets...intake and valve cover replacement 1989 & 90 302 & 351 (https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/697204-gaskets-intake-and-valve-cover-replacement-1989-and-90-302-and-351-a.html)

giorno 01-19-2008 09:13 AM

gaskets...intake and valve cover replacement 1989 & 90 302 & 351
 
Hello everyone,
I have an 89 F150 & a 90 F250, both EFI and both in need of valve cover and intake manifold gasket replacements.
Be fore I tackle these I wanted to get some expert advice from people fron this forum.
Is there any advice or anything to look out for... anyone would like to share.
Sealants, gaskets, torque specs, vacuum line replacements, any other gaskets while I'm there,etc....any suggestions or help.

One manual I have says I would have to remove the distributor...is this necessary or can I slide the manifold out from behind?

It has been a while since I was posted last, so if I need to be in another section of this forum please point me in the right direction.

Anything anyone has for me would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
giorno00
giorno00@yahoo.com

87white250 01-19-2008 09:23 AM

ha i was just about to post this same thing, mine valve cover gasket is leaking oil, I believe and I need to replace it... I think I will have to take off all the efi **** and then look at it.... bring on the info boys!

THE KING 01-19-2008 09:26 AM

I just took everything apart and put it backtogether about a couple of weeks ago. For taking the intake manifolds off, youll need a Torques bit for the upper plenum, Not sure on the size i can go look for you in a little bit. Make sure you mark everything really well. Spray each corner bolt of the intake manifold with PB blaster for a loong time before attempting. For the intake gaskets dont use the cork gaskets if its supplied, use Permatex Ultra black gasket maker and make sure you have a quarter inche bead. I did this and it worked great. Be carefull not to break any vacuum lines. Now for the distributor, i took my whole lower out without taking it out. You have to take off the passengers side injector harness and move that out of the way, and have lots of patients. Its really fun putting it back in without moving the gaskets or messing up the permatex bead. If i was to do it again, i would just remove the distributor. just make sure you mark where the rotor is, and where the body of the distributer is on the block. If you have to take the injector rail off its no biggy, just be carefull of the rubber o rings. Petrolium jelly works great in slipping it back on. For the valve covers lol, have fun getting the bolt out thats on the passengers side corner. I had a few choice words with it lol. I didnt end up doing the drivers side because i had to have it done that night. Well good luck if you need anything cleared up let me know. Theres alot of other people that know more than me on here, im just fresh with doing it so i figured id drop my two cents.

THE KING 01-19-2008 09:27 AM

Yea the upper has to come off to get the passengers side, and the vacuum/coil and all that other crap has to come off that sits over the drivers side valve cover.

Conanski 01-19-2008 09:55 AM

Get the Ford rubber coated steel core valve cover gaskets, these do not crush when you torque down the bolts. You'll never need another set of valve cover gaskets.
The trick with the lower intake is keepig the front and rear valley gaskets in place while you position the intake. Simple technique here that make the cork gaskets all you need. Clean the block gasket surface and glue down the front and rear pieces with contact cement. Use RTV to seal against the intake and side gaskets.

giorno 01-19-2008 05:35 PM

Thanks for the replies so far, keep em coming.

brown 4x4 01-19-2008 06:32 PM


Originally Posted by Conanski
Get the Ford rubber coated steel core valve cover gaskets, these do not crush when you torque down the bolts. You'll never need another set of valve cover gaskets.

I agree, that's what I was going to add to this thread. I always wondered why the later 302 and 351s' valve covers never leaked; finally saw the gaskets last summer. These have to be the best valve cover gaskets I've ever seen. Are the replacements from Ford the same thing?

95F350XL 01-19-2008 06:36 PM

I just use RTV for valve covers, never had a prob with them.

flareside_thunder 01-19-2008 07:37 PM

Yes they are the ones from Ford....I bought a set when I rebuilt my top end...unfortunately they were like 30 bucks for the set and I couldn't use them because I used valve covers off an older mustang 302 to clear my RR's......The torx bit size youwill need for the upper is a Number 40......you CANNOT use a 3/8 you have to use a 1/4 inch drive....been there done that...your best bet is gettin the bit slipping it into the correct 1/4 drive socket and putting a 8-10 inch extension on it......for the vaccum stuff on the driver's side you should just be able to unbolt it and set it off to the side...I second what the King says....he did the same thing I did when I rebuilt my top end....I broke off an intake bolt in the front driver corner...the one in the water jacket...they are notorious....soak it good and pray that you don't break it....For giggles I'd use some neverseez on all the bolts......make sure you have more than enough time to do this and be very careful and very gentle......I feel like I'm givin a bords and bees lecture here lol.....you can use the rubber front and back gaskets and after you got all the gaskets on there...use black RTV on the corners...nice little blobs to seal it pretty good.Good Luck and drop us a line.

JR

bu2020 06-04-2008 07:40 PM

Thanks all for your posts. I replaced valve cover gaskets and plugs. Cleaned out throttle body also. It would have been much harder without reading these posts even though I have a manual (for example, the hidden torx bolt in the upper intake and how to get it out - thanks JR)


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