rusted out brake line??
 

1999 F350 sc lariat 4x4 sb V10 auto

i have brake fluid leaking along the frame behind fuel tank.
atleast it happen trying to find a vaccum leak.

im assuming i have to drop the tank to remove the line.

so what is the best way to get the 3/4 tank of fuel out?

anyone have a diagram of the brake lines?

i hope it is just a short section and wont cost to much.

thanx

just splice the line before the fuel tank using a brass compression fitting with universal lines you would buy at an auto parts store, route it however you can by/along the frame past the fuel tank, and run it all the way to the rear axle hose. you probably need 2 61" long lengths 1 compression fitting, and 1 coupler, brake fluid, and a few cable ties. you will have to bleed both rear brake calipers. By dropping the tank, you could disturb fuel lines and wires for the fuel gauge, etc and it could turn into a much bigger deal than you think, especially since 1 line rusted out already.

thanx

i didnt think that a compression fitting would hold the pressure.

is the line diameter standard?

you are rite this is probably the easiest route.

The splicing thing is a good idea, but the compression fitting is a super duper no-no. You should never, ever, EVER splice a brake line with a compression fitting. This is strictly prohibited according to automotive safety guidlines, and i think, possibly even federal law. All brake line fittings are to be double flared and screwed into the appropriate flared connectors.

Another good thing would be to run rubber hose along the outside of the new lines in locations where there might be a possibility of rubbing metal to metal.

done the splice many times with no issues. Last time was on a grand marquis over the rear axle on top of the frame. went from the drivers floorboard area with a splice and a brass compression fitting , and ran it all the way to the rear hose. car had antilock, so it had 2 lines to the rear wheel. that one went a year earlier and was repaired the same way.

I was not saying that it couldn't be done, or that it is never done. Only saying that any professional mechanic that does it will likely loose his job because it is not considered safe. It might last for ten years, but all it takes is that one hard stop to blow out and when it does, you have nothing in all four corners because of catastrophic pressure loss. When dealing with brake lines, only a double flared connection is considered safe. Not even a single flared end is considered adequate.

I have to agree with mike67, the compression fitting is a definite no.

miker67 is dead right IT IS AGANST THE LAW but the parts stores will sell you one anyway really them auto zone folks will rent you the flareing tool do it right and then you wont ever be sorry

i knew it wouldnt be that easy.

i guess i could try a salvage yard or would ford carry brake lines?



so how hard is it to do a double flair?

Not hard at all, with the proper double flaring tool of course. The key is to bevel the end of the line you are flaring, you MUST do the bevel and it must bed consistent all the way around the tube, or the flare will be really wacky.

I didn't realize this big no no one compression fittings. I too had my line rust out. Replaced w/ 1/4" .035 Seamless Stainless and use Swagelok compression fittings (good up to 5000 psi). Spliced in and no signs of drips or issues. I'll definitely keep an eye on it.

FYI - mines diesel, but I was able to fish the old line out and out of shear luck, fish the new line back in. I tried bending my new line like the old, but finally gave up and shoved it in there.

I didn't know they were no no's we've got a bunch of times on the buggy and a couple jeep's. I guess were going to have to buy a flaring tool and do a rude redo on all a stuff we put in. Those lines under their just get yanked out

Not a good idea to use compression fittings. Making double flares is easy enough.

its not like the brake police are gonna inspect ya but if some one gets hurt some lawers gonna get cha because of that compression fitting evean if it didn fail just because you used it you get in a couldnt stop wreck no matter what and they find that you lose. i dont think they are that bad either but with the leagel bs it aint worth it

I have done brake line several times, and have the tool for making single and double flares. I believe most automotive applications call for double flares, where the cone of the flare is two wall thicknesses. The flare tool kit comes with several size dies for different size lines. Buy one and it's good just about forever for any vehicle that uses flare fittings. Then instead of buying short lengths and using a bunch of unions you get a 25' roll of the right size line and make the new section out of one piece. Don't forget to put the fittings on the line BEFORE you make the flares. I am guessing the rusted spot is where a clip held the line to the frame, maybe had a bit of sand holding water and acting as an abrasive on that spot? Check the rest of the length of that line for other potential problem areas.

The only time my flare tool kit didn't work for me was once on a car that had a wierd "donut" looking flare. I went to the dealer and was talking to the parts guy who had never seen one like it. As we were talking about it a mechanic came in and looked at it and said "You need a tool like the one I have out in my box". He made me up the flare in a couple of minutes and I threw him a ten-spot to have a few cold ones on me.