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-   -   Engine build or gear swap??? (https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/696611-engine-build-or-gear-swap.html)

pc_2000 01-30-2008 10:14 AM

Well, I decided on getting the 351. Just waiting for IRS to get back with my money. I also figured that, before I drop it in, that I may as well rebuild it, since on don't know the condition of the motor except for what the present owner has told me. While I'm rebuilding, I am going to add a few items for more power. Here is the list, please let me know if I should add/remove change anything on it and why, so I can continue to learn:

<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=4 width=504 border=0><TBODY><TR bgColor=#f5f5f5><TD class=help vAlign=top align=left>BIG-12504FLT</TD><TD class=help vAlign=top align=left>Headers, Full-Length, Steel, Painted, Ford, Bronco/F-150/F-250 Pickup, 5.8L, Pair </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=4 width=504 border=0><TBODY><TR bgColor=#ffffff><TD class=help vAlign=top align=left>CRN-36308-1</TD><TD class=help vAlign=top align=left>Valve Springs/Retainers, Single Springs, Steel Retainers, Kit </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=4 width=504 border=0><TBODY><TR bgColor=#f5f5f5><TD class=help vAlign=top align=left>CRN-444232</TD><TD class=help vAlign=top align=left>Cam and Lifters, Hydraulic Flat Tappet, Advertised Duration 268/276, Lift .448/.464, Ford,Small Block/351W,Kit </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=4 width=504 border=0><TBODY><TR bgColor=#ffffff><TD class=help vAlign=top align=left>CRN-99003-1</TD><TD class=help vAlign=top align=left>Assembly Lubricant, Super Lube Break-In Concentrate, for Camshaft Break-In, 8 oz., Each </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=4 width=504 border=0><TBODY><TR bgColor=#f5f5f5><TD class=help vAlign=top align=left>CRN-99041-1</TD><TD class=help vAlign=top align=left>Valve Locks, Stamped, Steel, 7 Degree, 1-Groove, 11/32 in. Valve Stem, Set of 16</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=4 width=504 border=0><TBODY><TR bgColor=#ffffff><TD class=help vAlign=top align=left>FEM-2056116M-000</TD><TD class=help vAlign=top align=left>Engine Re-Ring, Moly, 4.000 in. Bore, Standard Rod, Std Main, Ford 351W, Kit </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=4 width=504 border=0><TBODY><TR bgColor=#f5f5f5><TD class=help vAlign=top align=left>SUM-329600</TD><TD class=help vAlign=top align=left>Pulley Set, Serpentine, Performance Ratio, Steel, Black Powdercoated, Ford, 5.0/5.8L, Set of 3 </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=4 width=504 border=0><TBODY><TR bgColor=#ffffff><TD class=help vAlign=top align=left>SUM-G6514</TD><TD class=help vAlign=top align=left>Timing Chain and Gear Set, Standard, Single Non-Roller, Steel Sprockets, Ford, Small Block, Set </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
Obviously these are all Summit Racing part numbers. I noticed the only thing they didn't recommend was cam bearings. The headers and cam turned out to be what Paul, Conanski has in his truck, so I'm sure he'll agree with those parts, LOL. Things like the timing gears and chain may or not need to be replaced but I don't know if I should. Also, I'm not planning on switching over to MAF yet, so it will stay S/D. Will that cam be fine with S/D?

About the headers, with these, since Paul will know, is there room for a cat after them and will the O2 sensor reach where it should go?
Thanks for all the help here!

ssidney 01-30-2008 11:26 AM

probly not a good idea to order parts before getting engine apart, may need pistons, rod re-sizing, crank grind etc

pc_2000 01-30-2008 11:40 AM


Originally Posted by ssidney
probly not a good idea to order parts before getting engine apart, may need pistons, rod re-sizing, crank grind etc

I agree, I will get it on a stand and torn down first, but this is my wishlist. Wondering if I should change or remove anything. I know Paul has a couple of these parts on his truck, so I'm looking for his personal experience as well as everyones opinion.

I can't wait to pick up the engine. I feel like a kid at Christmas :-D

Conanski 01-30-2008 11:54 AM


Originally Posted by pc_2000
Also, I'm not planning on switching over to MAF yet, so it will stay S/D. Will that cam be fine with S/D?

Yes, it's on the list and meets the requirements.


Originally Posted by pc_2000
About the headers, with these, since Paul will know, is there room for a cat after them and will the O2 sensor reach where it should go?

What.. you haven't seen my exhaust pics yet? I have a single cat placed just after the 2-into-1 collector on my system.. works fine. I have the O2 sensor in the passenger side header collector, stock wiring reaches this as well. I will be moving the sensor to the pipe right behind the header collector, just a few inches further back when I replace these headers. They are 8 years old now and starting to leak, I'm buying ceramic coated versions this time around and I dont want to compromise the coating to install O2 bungs. Here's the pics...http://www.flickr.com/photos/motorstuff/sets/72157602458567072/

Conanski 01-30-2008 12:03 PM


Originally Posted by pc_2000
I know Paul has a couple of these parts on his truck, so I'm looking for his personal experience as well as everyones opinion.

I think you'll be much happier with a 5.8 over a 5.0.. it's a WAY better truck motor. I think you'll still need gearing with those big meats, for the sake of the tranny and for respectable performance, but the 5.8 will do a much better job overall. As a for instance.. my truck only has 31's and I'm looking at 4.10 gears to get better performance to compliment the upgrades I have comming.. Typhoon intake, Dart heads and 1.7 rockers.

pc_2000 01-30-2008 12:28 PM

Paul, those pics are awesome. Did you have the exhaust done or did you weld that yourself? What size tubes are those? I'm trying to decide if I can cut them right into my exhaust, which was done before I got the truck, but not stock (I think it's just cat-back). I guess I'll have to weld in the O2 bung. I'm probably going to weld mine together myself. I don't like to pay someone else to do something I can do, or try.

I was just concerned about the cam not making a difference with the the S/D.

I am going to have to wait on gears until a later time. Besides once I get the new cage built for the truck, I'll be tearing it completely down anyway, and can do the gears then.

Conanski 01-30-2008 12:33 PM

That plumbing is completely DIY.. chopped up a pair of mendrel bent 2.5" J bends http://www.mandrelbendingsolutions.com/servlet/Detail?no=60 with a metal chop saw and welded it together with my Lincoln wire feed.

flareside_thunder 01-30-2008 03:41 PM

Get a new double roller timing chain set...no use spending the money on a cam and not taking that extra measure..you'll also wanna go ahead and do the cam bearings as well.....Luck

JR

pc_2000 01-30-2008 05:33 PM


Originally Posted by flareside_thunder
Get a new double roller timing chain set...no use spending the money on a cam and not taking that extra measure..you'll also wanna go ahead and do the cam bearings as well.....Luck

JR

Ok, that makes sense. The double rollers won't take up more space? They aren't double wide? I'll add the cam bearings as well.

Timing chain question? I realized that online they have 2 different sets depending on whether or not the motor has a 1 or 2 piece fuel pump eccentric. I haven't a clue. What did a 1990 351W have?

Everything else looks on par?

donnor 01-30-2008 09:52 PM

"Eccentricities" of fuel delivery
 

Originally Posted by pc_2000
Ok, that makes sense. The double rollers won't take up more space? They aren't double wide? I'll add the cam bearings as well.

Timing chain question? I realized that online they have 2 different sets depending on whether or not the motor has a 1 or 2 piece fuel pump eccentric. I haven't a clue. What did a 1990 351W have?

Everything else looks on par?

Your 90 should not need an eccentric, as it has electric fuel pumps: One in the tank and another along the driver side frame rail.

dn.

pc_2000 01-31-2008 06:21 AM


Originally Posted by donnor
Your 90 should not need an eccentric, as it has electric fuel pumps: One in the tank and another along the driver side frame rail.

dn.

So either one should be fine? They don't show one specifically for the electric fuel pump, that's why I didn't know. That's why I was confused. I figured it had something to do with a manual fuel pump. They are both the same price, so I toss a coin? LOL


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