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Read first- FAQ and MANY more 1948-1960 Ford truck related articles
Many, many thanks to RMF aka Ferguson777 for noticing, informing me about the messed up links and resupplying these links. In other words baby sitting me through all this.
Hope I got it all straight and working propery,finally, working etc.... We`ll keep this thread for only posting tech links, comments/replies can be made in the 48-60 forum. If you have any helpful links please post them here. :-X22 https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/...rd_Trucks.html/ Front Suspension Alternatives for 1948 � 1960 Ford Trucks, parts 1,2 & 3. Reverse-Tilt Hood Design for 53-56 Fords: https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/...356_Fords.html Replacing Floor Boards In A 1953 F-100: https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/...953_F100_.html Installing Hanging Brake Pedals In a '53 F-100: https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/...a_53_F100.html STEERING COLUMN WIRING: https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/...MN_WIRING.html Installing a Mid 80�s GM Bench Seat In a �53 F-100: https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/...a_53_F100.html Front Suspension Alternatives for 1948 � 1960 Ford Trucks, Part One: https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/..._Part_One.html Reference Material On Earl's World here http://www.clubfte.com/users/earl/Re...%20Information http://www.clubfte.com/users/jniolon/fordspecpage.htm for truck dimensions |
WHOA!!!!
Way to go Big Mo!!!!! Nicely done Bobby |
Great article. Keep them coming.
Vern |
Great complilation of articles. Very informative!
Thanks |
The big, in-depth, fascinating discussion thread about Jag suspensions started by "av8Ford" (Mike Bishop) way back in 2004:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/2...ighlight=jaguar '48 front Jag install (Rhopper's): https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...?albumid=24453 '49 front Jag install (49Willard's): https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...?albumid=21703 '50 front Jag install (Rusty50F1's): https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...?albumid=24834 '55 front AND rear Jag install (forgot user's name): https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...p?albumid=7337 '48 front Jag install (forgot user's name) https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...?albumid=30130 '55 F100 full buildup with Jag front and rear installs (Holmsey's website): http://www.uk-hotrods.co.uk/v2/gara...e/me/page_1.php |
Seat info
An excellent article by ferguson777 I`m reposting here, it`s also part of the above link https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/...rd_Trucks.html
__________________________________________________ ___ Here are some measurements that you might want to consider when looking for a new seat. · Inside cab width from door panel to door panel (where the seat bottom is the widest) o 1948-1952 F-1 = 53.5 inches o 1953-1956 F-100 = 58 inches · Distance between the door handle tips o 1949 F-1 = 51.5 inches · Distance between the fat part of the door handles o 1949 F-1 = 45-5/8 inches · Distance across the cab at the rear door post o 1949 F-1 = 57 inches · Distance from door panel to door panel o 1957-1960 F-100 = 62 inches · Distance from door handle to door handle o 1957-1960 F-100 = 56 inches · Stock bench seat width o 1960 F-100 = 59 inches There seems to be an issue (particularly found by older members of the forum) with the space between the steering wheel and the seat shrinking over time, resulting in limited intestinal accommodation. Fortunately the newer seats use a different type of spring so they tend to be thinner in the back. This provides more room in that area. This is something to think about before you buy a big, fat seat out of a Cadillac or Lincoln or some other land yacht. With a newer seat, you will usually pick up storage space under the seat bottom as well. The following suggestions are based upon input from this forum. There is also an article in the August 2004 issue of Classic Truck that deals with this subject and contains many pictures of the suggested alternative seats. Note that we are not spending time discussing bucket seats. Once you ditch the console, you can pretty much fit any bucket into any truck, although generally you’ll end up with a built in headrest sticking up in your back window. 1948-1952 Trucks – Seat Width No More Than 52 Inches · 2000 Ford Escort buckets · Mid/late 1980s to 1996 Ford Ranger or Broncos o 60/40 bench or buckets o Perfect fit o Used by many o Bench is 51” wide at it’s widest point o Back folds forward o No headrests to poke up in the back window o 2-door donors fold, 4-door donors don’t o Very popular with members of the forum · 1989 through mid 1990s Ford Explorer o Buckets or 60/40 bench · Middle or rear seats out of a 1996 Dodge Caravan · 1996 and newer Chevy Astro Van · 1996 and newer full sized GM van middle or rear seats · 1995 and newer Toyota Tacoma · 1994 and newer Chevy S-10/Sonoma 1953-1960 Trucks – Seat Width No More Than 58 Inches · 2001 F-150 NOTE: There are several different styles of bench seats used in the late 1980s through late 1990s GM trucks – quasi-buckets, 60/40s and full benches. They all tend to have thin backs which helps to increase leg space where needed. Some have built in arms rests and a level of seat bottom sculpturing to them, some don’t. These seats are also well liked by a number of the members of this forum. · 1988-1998 GM truck seats o Excellent looking brackets o Easy to adapt o Headrests tend to be removable · 1988-1994 Chevy Silverado bench o No headrest o Fold down arm rest o Very stylish · 1997 and newer F-150 bench o Has a built in headrest o Brackets are a bit of a challenge · Late 1990s Chevy Suburban · 1987 Chevy pickup bench · The 2000 and newer Suburban o 60/40 bench o Removable headrests o Not the most stylish thing o Brackets are clunky looking The 1999 and newer GM Silverado 40/20/40 “bench” is an interesting possibility. It’s 60 inches wide, but it’s really more like two buckets with a “jump seat” between. You could easily omit the middle section and put in a narrower console or nothing. They do have built shoulder belts, saving you the issue of mounting the shoulder restraint to the wall between the rear window and the doors. You might fit this whole set up into a 1953-1960 F-100. The 1994 through 2001 Dodge truck also has a similar set up, though less stylish than the GM version. It will have the same pluses and minuses. Another issue to consider is that you need to build some sort of bracket to mount your new seat(s) to your truck. If you’re using the 1988-1998 GM seats, it’s pretty straightforward. Just look at the stock GM mounting brackets and it’s a no brainer. However, if you’re using Ford seats or buckets, this can get a little tricky. For a few good pictures of the brackets one member made to install a later model seat check out this thread. http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=114729 The work was done by KAI - our German buddy. He was putting a 1980 F-350 seat in a 1954 F-100. His brackets deal quite nicely with the weird bend/angle in the front of the stock Ford brackets. They are wonderful in their simplicity and could easily be modified to compensate for a shorter driver. For an excellent example of brackets fabricated to hold the 1996-2000 Ranger 60/40 bench/bucket, check out those made by Scott123 (Scott Jones). He has provided pictures and plans, so you could make a copy of the “Scott123 Super-Duper seat frame 2000” if you wish. Check out their galleries for the pictures/plans referred. |
great info and yes just what I needed cause I am looking for a new (old) seat for the darkside ride.
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Reference Material On Earl's World
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48 - 60 Ford Engine Specs.
http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/470.cfm |
Link To The Ford V-8 Engine Workshop
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Links to 48-60 specific articles scattered throughout the articles sections;
From the Body, Bed and Appearance section – https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/...356_Fords.html Reverse tilt hood design https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/...953_F100_.html Replacing floorboards From the Brake system section – https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/...a_53_F100.html Hanging brake pedals From the Electrical, Electronics section – (though actually for slightly newer models, very useful for us) – https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/...rd_Pickup.html Intermittant two speed wipers https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/...MN_WIRING.html Steering column wiring legend |
https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/...a_53_F100.html
Mid 80s GM column into a 53 F100 There’s also an article entitled Installing_a_IDIDIT_Column_In_a_ 53_F100 but I can’t copy the link successfully….. From the transmission and axle section – https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/...ers_Guide.html Ford Automative Transmission spotters guide https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/...ial_Swaps.html Rear end swap guide for 48 - 60s and lowering techniques https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/...1956_F100.html Building a tranny X-member for 53-56 F100s |
None of the links/pointers to the FAQ article on this site work. Maybe they deleted it. Here is a link to the article which was “temporarily” posted on the website of our member WillyB. He also has his own article on converting an older Ford small block to EFI;
http://www.old-fords.com/faq1.htm For his EFI related articles go to old-fords.com |
Lastly - the Toyota Steering Box tech article (unfortunately missing the photos);
Part 1 of about 3 - The article on installing a Toyota power steering box into a 48-60 is also strangely missing now. A search in the articles will find a link (as it will for the FAQ article) but the link is bogus….. Below is the entire article. However the photos won’t likely be included… Improved Steering for Straight Axle 1948-1960 F-1/F-100 Trucks By Chuck Frank (FTE screen name AXracer) and R.M. (Bob) Ferguson (FTE screen name Ferguson777) Background A common complaint from owners of 1948 through 1960 Ford truck owners still using the original straight axle suspension and steering is sloppiness in the steering of their vehicle - the “drunken monkey” syndrome. In fairness to Ford’s original engineering, the first thing you should do is a complete rebuild of the entire steering and suspension systems if you have this complaint. This involves checking and repairing everything that might be worn - the spring eye bushings and pins, king pins, tie rod ends, the drag link and finally the steering box. Excluding the steering box internals, you can do all this for about $250 plus your own labor. You will notice a marked improvement for your effort. If you go this route, you should seriously consider using a heavy duty, solid tie rod versus the stock hollow rod. The hollow rod is known to flex and affect handling. If you only need to adjust the steering box and replace some suspension components, you can get by rather cheaply as noted above. Once you get to the steering box innards, however, it can get expensive. There is a certain amount of adjustment that can be made to the box, but that may not do it for you. The shafts and the worm and sector gears inside could be badly worn or damaged. Trying to over adjust worn or damaged gears to reduce free play will result in a tightness going straight ahead and even more accelerated wear. After careful adjustment as specified in the shop manual, if your steering exhibits any of the following, then it is time to repair or replace the steering box. · tightness going straight ahead · notchy, jerky, or rough turning · more than about 2 inches of free play at the rim of the steering wheel before the wheels move Options There are a number of options you can choose from at this point. They include: · Buy a rebuild kit for the box o About $325 from places such as Mid-Fifty, Chuck’s Trucks, or Classic Performance Products · Replace the box with a professionally rebuilt/new box. o About $550 from places such as Mid-Fifty and others. · Replace the old box with a good used box. o Good used boxes are becoming quite scarce and expensive § They are popular with the traditional hot rodders § The are popular with restorers § They are sought out by rebuilders for cores. o Because the column shaft is part of the box, shipping a used box can be expensive o As with all used equipment you can never be 100% sure of its condition · Convert to cross steering and swap to a GM power steering box. o Mid-Fifty sells the parts required for this swap, but it’s more expensive and less popular than the Toyota swap discussed below. · Convert to one of the new rack and pinion steering gear kits for beam axles. o This option is new and quite pricey, and has not established itself in the market yet o We are not aware of any first hand experience with it by anyone in the 1948-1960 forum · Replace the steering box with either a manual or power steering box from a 1979 through early 1984 Toyota 4x4 pickups. o This is the most popular and easiest option. o There is a substantial amount of first-hand information and experience with this swap This tech article concentrates on the Toyota 4x4 steering box swap. |
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