Bio in an older vehicle
 

will using Biodiesel or SVO in a 1984 F250 6.9L cause me problems with seals and hoses? I need to replace/rebuild my IP, do all the rebuilders now use viton seals in everything they do? or could I end up getting one with rubber seals if I just go out and buy a rebuilt? and if I get a o-ring seal kit will it be viton? how can I tell if they are viton?

Most everything now made for replacement is upgraded to handle biodiesel. Change your fuel lines if they havent been done already and you should be alright.

keep a fuel filter or two handy for the first few tanks you run, the bio washes all of the algae out of the fuel system and will tend to clog filters on a high mileage truck that has never run bio.

If you have any area which is weak. Such as fuel lines rusting or fuel tank rusting. It will cause the rust to come free and possibly make it leak.

I have an 84 and I still havn't replaced any fuel lines, I had to replace 1 short piece on my 88, but I just wait till I have problems, I've been running homemade UNWASHED bio for 2 years and still have had only that one small problem.

I ordered some Viton fuel line, enough to replace the supply lines (expensive!).. the stainless portions I am leaving, of course. I got a new 38 gal rear tank, which should elminate some of the worries of filter clogging. But I do have 6 filters on hand.

I bought a BIO IP from dieselcare in TN for $375... the standard is $325... they tell me the seal kit is all the same in both but in the BIO unit they install higher quality steel fins. Who knows.. I might have just over paid just for the BIO label and got the same product..lol But $375 is still still a good price... now I just wonder if when I get done installing the IP, if I will be wishing that I had gotten the injectors for $16.99 each at the same time...

Normally... I replace the injectors at the same time as the IP because of the wear in the injectors will throw more fuel into cylinders creating other problems.

How significant of a difference can it be? I don't know any of the history on my pickup, I bought her at an auction she fires right up even on a cold morning. But I don't know if the injectors have ever been replaced.. or if the IP had ever been replaced before. If I test the bust pressure on the injectors while I have it apart and they are all withint tolerance, think I will be okay? or are you speaking of other types or wear other than the springs...my concern is that if I change the IP and put the timing back to the same position it was and if the springs are weak and the new IP is strong then I will be too far advanced... but I can see how they could also allow more fuel to get through as well... So I should just order up the injectors then?? They wont ship until monday now... :-X16

How many miles on the truck? If high miles it would just be worth it to be worry free and be on your way. One thing if high miles it might check out ok on the bench but under high pressures and heat can do funny things to equipment to throw them off.

I have no idea how many actual miles are on the truck. I bought her at an auction and the speedometer cable wasnt connected. Then I still wouldn't know how many times the odometer has rolled over. They may have replaced the injectors a few years ago.. or she might still have the original injectors from the factory. Might be best to get a new set and not have to worry if Biodiesel will cause the injectors to leak... $16.25 each (+$3 core) for rebuilts from dieselcare...

Even if you buy brand new injectors it is still a good idea to have them pop tested before you install them. If you do a search on the injector threads on here you will see where some members have had problems even with new injectors not popping off correctly or leaking. Jim