08 F350 6.4L questions, and programmers
 

I'm not on here much at all. But I just bought an 08 F350 with the 6.4L so I'll be here more often. I did my research before I bought and know a thing or two. But I have heard so many different things I want to try to clear some things up. First is the difference between the 250 and 350. According to the dealer the ONLY difference is that the 350 has a block in the back to increase payload. Other than that they are the exact same truck. I think he is right but I want to hear from other owners, dealers, techs, etc. Second. Fuel mileage. The dealer said he has heard people getting 18-20MPG. I have also heard of people barely getting 12. I'm sure the crew cabs use more fuel because they are heavier. But what should I really expect? I have a reg cab so I am hoping for the 18 mark. Last question. The specs on the engine are 650 ft. lbs. of torque. I've looked at Hypertechs new Max Energy programmer and it claims 114HP increase and 188TQ increase! Thats great! But when you look at the chart it claims the stock torque is just over 520 ft. lbs. So if it's basing it's numbers off that it's BS. So what are your thoughts on this programmer? Is it BS? Is it worth it? Is the 6.4L to complicated to add such a thing? Thanks guys for your input.

18-20 is BS for any rig that's CC 4x4, you might get that old man driving in a reg cab. I personally wouldn't add any programmer, they are hard on the drivelines, if you wanted a fast HD truck....Chevy. Tq. numbers from the manuf. are rated at the flywheel, not the same as rearwheel numbers you'll see. Payload numbers are very close.
Good luck with the truck. Report with your mpg when you get it rollin'

20 mpg is hy, I haven't heard of anyone gettin any beter than 17.
I drive a 4 door 250 fx4 and get 17 hwy empty@ 9,000 miles and this drops significantly in town.
As you can see in previous posts mpg depends on the gears on your specific truck.

Thanks guys. I'm going to wait on the programmer. That makes sense now that I know the chart is TQ at the rear wheels. Mine is a reg. cab auto with 3.73's. I'm hoping for 15-20 hwy and 12-15 city. People with manuals probably get better mileage too.

i have 373's , get 20 + highway and 17-18 city with no towing.

IS THAT HAND CALC. OR COMPUTER?

thats computer, whats easiest way to hand calc ?

THE COMPUTER IS USUALLY OFF BY A FEW MILES ON HWY AND ALLOT MORE ON CITY.

TO HAND CALC. YOU NEED TO FILL UP COMPLETLY AND WRITE DOWN YOUR MILES. TAKE YOUR TRIP AND THEN FILL BACK UP WRITE DOWN YOUR MILES AGAIN. DIVIDE MILES DRIVEN BY GALLONS USED AND THERE YOU GO.
20 GALLONS 100 MILES 5 MPG.

Although i certainly agree that hand calc is the more accurate and the way to go when doing real comparisons, the computer, at least in the 4 that I have (or had) is not off that much. Maybe 1 mpg and it did not really matter city or hwy.

Agreed, ive never seen mine off more than 1 MPG, and that was in town, the highway MPG has always been within .3 or better.

I would go with the SCT programmer or the superchip programmer, they rate the hp gains at the wheels and they have good trans tunes for the added power.

HOW CAN YOU TELL IF ITS ACCURATE WITH IT FALLING AND RISING IN CITY DRIVING. IF YOU ARE TALKING ABOUT AN OVER ALL AVERAGE THE COMPUTER MIGHT ONLY BE A FEW MPGS OFF BUT THAT ALLOT WERE YOU ARE FIGURING MPGS.
PERSONALLY SPEAKING MINE IS 1.5 TO 2 MILES OFF ON HWY AND I CANNOT GET AN ACCURATE READING IN TOWN DO TO THE RPMS CHANGING CONSTANTLY.

I agree with you if you are reseting it constantly for instant milage. It depends how often you reset the the average milage. I run 2 to 4 tanks before i rest mine. After 600 to 800 miles it dosent jump nearly as much, usually only the tenths if any.

For MPG a calculator is the way to go. You can get it to within .5 miles or better and know it's accurate.

I agree, its the only way to go, but the computer is not that far off all things considered if used right.