coolant flush procedure..
 

I used this:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/howto/changecoolant.php

and in my F150 got out about 12 qts (capacities says 19.4).

I read on FTE another procedure that was much more involved, but the one above could be done in an hour (took me longer the 1st time of course).

Thoughts?

Somewhere I read that if you get 50% of the coolant out and then drain more often, it's almost as good as draining 100%.

When I refilled, I got in 8 qts of Prestone and 4 qts distilled water.

What bugs me is 12 vs 19 and if Prestone and "whatever was there" will badly react.

I personally find nothing wrong with the flush kits you get from Wal-Mart for the DIYer. It gets all the old coolant out and allows you replace it with fresh coolant.

Some will flush it with tap water and then follow with distilled or purified (reverse osmosis'd water) just to make sure none of the tap water minerals remain.

If you get coolant that meets the manufacturer's recommendation/specs then there shouldn't be any compatibility issues. :)

Prestone meets Fords specs/requirements, last time I checked it did.

I used the yellow bottle / green fluid. It says 5 years, 150K miles. It was not the new extended life stuff. I figure if I use that flush procedure I'm only going to get 12 qts out.. so I may do this every 3 years which will be about 30K miles. I could not see the passenger side block plug, so like the article describes, I just drained the radiator and driver's side block.

Would a service station "flush" be MUCH better? How about a flush kit? Or is getting 12 quarts out every 3 years good enough?

Kevin, are you talking about the block plug on your Excursion?

If so, it's directly across from the drivers side block plug. Just peer between the oil pan and the starter (a flashlight really helps until you know exactly where it is) and you'll see it on the side of the block. And even though it looks difficult to reach, it's pretty easy to remove.

Just reach up and over from the rear of the starter, and feel for the plug. Using a 1/4" ratchet with no extension, the plug should be easy to remove.

I found the following flush procedure for the 7.3L PSD to be spot on, when completely flushing the engine.

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Goochs Radiator Flush Procedure




Here's my flush procedure for doing a complete flush:
You'll need the following:

4 gallons of anti-freeze concentrate. In agreement with International who made your engine, I recommend a conventional coolant with SCA, or a pre-charged conventional coolant for the early 99's (pre-2/2/99). For all other 99-up PSD's I recommend a Heavy Duty ELC. But the choice of coolant is yours.

SCA (if using conventional un-charged coolant). Amount depends on the SCA maker (usually 3-4 pints).

Up to 20 gallons of distilled water (you may use less if your tap water quality is excellent requiring less flushing).

A Prestone flush kit with "T".

1-1/2 foot of 5/8" hose (to go on flush "T").

A new thermostat gasket.

Possibly a new thermostat, new coolant filter (if you've added one), or any hoses or hose clamps that you think may need replacing.

Note: A children's small plastic wading pool works good for a catch container. Some fit between the front wheels perfectly.


<ST1:pFlushing </ST1:pprocedure:

Park truck on level surface. Allow to cool.

Turn in-cab heater valve all the way to "hot". This will help circulate the old coolant out of the heater core during flushing.

Remove degas bottle cap slowly (be careful if hot).

Drain radiator at pet-cock (bottom left-hand driver's side) into suitable container. Expect at least a 5-gallon bucket-full.

Remove lower radiator hose (at radiator) and drain any sediment and/or coolant from radiator and hose into container.

Remove driver's side block plug with 1/4" socket wrench driver, and drain coolant into suitable container.

Remove passenger's side block plug with 1/4" socket wrench driver, and drain coolant into suitable container (this is best done without an extension on the wrench, working under the truck from the top rear side of starter - no need to remove starter).

Remove thermostat housing and thermostat.

Re-install thermostat housing without thermostat, using old gasket (it's ok if it leaks a little while flushing).

Re-install both block plugs finger-tight.

Re-install lower radiator hose temporarily.

Close radiator pet-cock.

Remove heater hose at passenger's side coming off the engine (just below intercooler tube).

Install that heater hose to one end of the flush "T".

Install 1 1/2 foot of 5/8" hose to other end of flush "T".

Install the remaining end of the 5.8" hose to fitting where the original hose was removed from.

*Note*: You could permanently install the flushing "T" in the heater hose if desired.

Install garden hose onto flush "T".

Turn garden hose on until clear water (no green tint) runs (backflushes) out of top of degas bottle. This will take several minutes.

With hose still on, start and run engine for a couple of minutes, again until water coming out of degas bottle is clear (no green tint).

Turn engine off. Turn garden hose off.

Drain radiator at petcock, remove both block plugs, remove lower radiator hose.

Remove flushing "T", the extra 5/8" hose, and reinstall the original heater hose to engine.

Close radiator petcock, reinstall and finger-tighten both block plugs, reinstall lower radiator hose (permanently).

Fill system with distilled water until the degas bottle is full.

Run engine a couple of minutes.

Drain radiator petcock, remove both block plugs.

Close radiator petcock, reinstall and finger-tighten both block plugs.

Again, fill degas bottle with distilled water.

Run engine a couple of minutes.

Drain radiator petcock, remove both block plugs.

Close radiator petcock permanently.

Install both block plugs and tighten permanently.

(You may decide to flush with distilled water one more time if your tap water is extremely bad).

Install thermostat and new thermostat gasket.

Add 4 gallons of anti-freeze concentrate to the degas bottle.

If using SCA, add it to cooling system per SCA manufacturer's instructions (usually 3-4 pints).

Add distilled water to finish filling the system until the degas bottle indicates between min/max.

Replace degas bottle cap.

Rinse off any coolant from engine and underbody of vehicle.

Run engine (or drive truck for faster heating), until thermostat opens and hot air is felt through heater in cab. Periodically check coolant level adding distilled water as necessary. If heater does not get hot (or stay hot), it may be necessary to rev engine or purge air from the cooling system.

Add distilled water until level equalizes (min/max mark) in degas bottle. (this may take several days).

Use test strip to test and add SCA if applicable.

This method will yield approximately a 50/50 mixture of coolant/distilled water. If in cold climates, it is always best to have the freeze protection tested with a quality refractometer.

Write down date and mileage of coolant maintenance for future use.
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Stewart

Ok.. that looks like a thorough flush! I suppose once you get rolling it's not too long of a process. What if I just drained the radiator and the 2 block plugs and and then filled it back up? Does the backflush (which then requires the distilled water flushes) add substantially more value?

Oh.. right now I'm doing my F150, but the Ex is next. The passenger side block plug on the F150 seems to be a bear to reach, so I only did the radiator and driver's side block. That must have been about 2/3 of the fluid. I got about 12 quarts out. Capacity is suppose to be just shy of 20. I just drained, then rinsed with tap water (Colorado water is low mineral), and then filled with 2 gals Prestone, and 1 gallon distilled.

I'm trying to validate that what I did for the F150 is acceptable, and then prep for the Ex.

If this question is being asked about a PSD, It depends on what your goal is. If you have the green coolant and are intending to switch to an Extended Life Coolant (a true ELC [my subjective, sarcastic opinion, not based on any data or facts]), not the Gold that Ford puts in the newer trucks, then yes, it's mandatory you backflush with the tap water, then flush with the distilled water.

If you're just flushing out the old coolant and replacing with the same type of coolant, just new, then for you, the answer might be no.

Again, it's just my opinion, but you may find the added value may not outweigh the labor involved unless you're switching to an ELC.

Stewart

If it were my F150, I wouldn't be concerned, and I would indeed feel like it was a sufficient flush.

But for my Excursion? Because it needs the added cavitation protection, and because I was switching from the green coolant to the red coolant (ELC) then I ALWAYS, in a case like that, err on the side of caution and will overkill on the project to make sure it's done the right way.

If you followed my coolant flush thread, you'll remember I ended up installing the Prestone T kit twice, and flushed twice (the second time for an hour) because I wasn't satisfied after the first flush.

Stewart

So for my 150 I guess I'll call it good.

For the new EX.. I'll try to drain radiator and both plugs, but maybe not the flush.. as I expect I'll just use the standard Prestone and not go with ELC. It's a v10.

If I can do it in an hour, I'm more apt to get it done regularly. So a 1 hour flush I could probably keep on schedule every couple of years.