Rear Shocks on 2002 F150
 

What is the degree of difficulty in replacing the rear shocks on a 2WD 2002 F150?

Doesn't take much, but the top nuts can be a PITA to get off depending on what kind of shock you have. They usually rust on and just want to twist the whole upper shaft and housing. Ford did put some access holes to reach the nut. I usually have to cut mine out.

Thanks! I noticed this morning that the rear driver side was bottoming on some bad spots in the road. Any suggestions on what and wear to buy?

I just replaced mine. It is a 4x4, but the stockers came off pretty easy. You need a 18mm socket, ratchet and a 18mm wrench. They are kinda in a tight spot under the bed, but accessable. I used Rancho RS5000's because they are a little stiffer than stock.

I had Rancho 5000's previously and will not go back, they were the absolute worst shock I have ever had to take off. They only give you a little square head at the top of the shaft, which you cannot get to to put vice rips or a wrench on. these are the ones I was eluding to cutting off. I went with NAPA's Sensatracs which have a full hood welded to the top shaft that will be easy to grab a hold of when I need to replace them. the sensatracs also ride better than the Rancho's ever did and cost nearly half as much.

took off the rear driver's side shock........noticed that the bed side of the shock is not bolted to the frame, but just sits in a hole in a shoulder plate. i'm able to take a hold of the shock and move it slightly side to side. to it off and compressed it a few times...put it back in. is the shock supposed to be able to move slightly as described above? nothing else under the truck is loose that would be causing the clunking noise that i'm hearing.

Any ideas????

It should be bolted down with rubber on the bottom and on top of the plate as well as a washer above the top rubber and below the bottom rubber.

I just replaced all 4 shocks on my 2000 4x4. after 127000 miles, the stock shocks were in pretty bad shape. I went with gabriel ultra gas shocks from autozone. I wouldn't recommend them. I mean 4-wheel drive fords are gonna ride rough..but these new shocks are just torture. oh and for me, replacing the front shocks was a breeze compared to the rear. the only thing is that it's better to take off the front wheels for easier access.

i went with the BILSTEIN 5100s out back (a nice shock with a beefier piston)...and i couldnt be happier...theyre very nice on road - and even better off.

i beat on em regularly...and i think they like it.

drj

i bought the monroe sensatrac.....driver side was a breeze to change, OEM didn't have nut at top, the shock end the top end in-place by piston only. the passenger side was a different story. i had to hold the top half of the shock from rotating as i gorilla-ed the nut off the top end. all-in-all not a bad experience, rides much better. will do fronts this weekend, but i'll make sure to take a wire brush to the stem to remove rust and build-up before trying to remove nut...i'm sure a little wd-40 to loosen some of that stuff wouldn't hurt either.

thanks for all your replies!!

2002 2wd f150
 

Just replaced the stock rear shock absorbers and at first was a pain but after using a short 18 mm socket and an 18mm wrench had no problems.

At the top of the shock on the bottom rubber area use the 18mm wrnech and socket the top. I did not use the hole the put because it is to small. Just simply put over top and crank away. should only take about 15 minutes or so. Hope this helps will post on the fron shocks on what made it easy.

I put Bilsteins on my 2001 2wd, I'm not impressed with these shocks. The Dust Covers on the rear shocks are plastic not metal like the Ford Shocks. The Right Boot had pulled off one of the shocks, in the box. Ended up super gluing it, so it would stay in place. :-arrgh The Ford Shocks had welded on nuts at the top to keep the shock from spinning while wrenching it. (Came in Handy on the Front Shocks) The Bilsteins have a T 40 Torx on the threaded rod, I hope I never have to remove them! Also the compression band is not split so it has to be cut before installing the shock, then you have to manually push the new shock in or jack up on the frame. BTW I used a small pipe wrench to turn the old shocks dust covers and jambed the wrench at the top against the frame.

I would Recommend the OEM Ford Shocks, go to a "Ford Parts on-line," to get a deal on them.

I put Monroe matics all the way around on my '99 F150 rides like a dream.

I couldn't disagree more. I also recently installed Bilsteins (HD) on my '01 SuperCrew 2WD. Great product.

The allen head didn't post an issue for me, just grounded out the 6mm allen wrench against something and ran the nuts on with a gear-wrench. Very painless.

Dust covers are just that, dust covers. I see no advantage to metal covers, Bilstein uses a metal piece which is interference fit with the covers that supports it. Since all it does is hang in place and provide some protection for the shock rod it is more than acceptable.

What's important is the shock itself, and IMO the quality of Bilstein easily surpasses the OEM Motorcraft pieces. Ford seems to agree, since they bothered to put Bilsteins on Lightnings. I noticed a marked improvement in ride quality, and a level of suspension composure this truck simply has never had even when new.

I bet I can beat anybody in rear shock replacement.

Holes in the bed over the top nuts makes the job a cake walk.

I need to replace shocks during this week along with brake pads and

front anti sway bar bushings from Energy Suspension.