'95 Explorer 4.0 Pushrod VIN(X) Timing question
 

To give a little background I was getting a Code 214 which is a Cylinder Identification Failure code for those that don't know. I started out by replacing the Crankshaft Position Sensor which is the cheapest thing on the list(PCM,ICM,CMP and CKP) to replace. That didnt work. So I moved on to the Camshaft Position Sensor. This type of motor uses a Hall Effect type sensor. From what I gather this sensor tells the PCM when to pulse the injectors by telling it where Top Dead Center is on the camshaft and the CKP sensor tells the PCM when to send spark to the spark plugs by telling it where TDC is on the Crank. This may be incorrect. Anyhow, just a little tip if anyone else is having this problem do not just buy the Sensor part of the assembly. For some reason Oreillys and Advance are selling these and they do not fit the CMP assembly at all.
http://www.partsamerica.com/product_...nie/css425.jpg This is what they are selling.




http://www.partsamerica.com/product_...ss137_full.jpgThis is what you have to buy. If you look closely you can see that the wiring connectors are not even close to being the same.

In order to get the sensor part of the assembly you have to buy the whole assembly which usually runs about $250 and up..ouch!!. Since the CMP is on the back of the engine I had to take off the Upper Intake to get to it(oh yeah for some reason Ford decided to use Philips head screws to tighten the Sensor portion of the assembly to the assembly. I spent the better part of 5 hours just trying to get one of the screws loose because they are so easy to strip. When I put the new one back on I replaced the philips head screws with hex head screws(got them from Lowes) that matched up perfectly. Now one thing I did not do was check to see if the CMP assembly was positioned correctly because it basically is just like a distributor in the way that it can spin and has a clampdown bolt. This would not be a big deal, but the guy that was helping me loosened the clampdown bolt and may have spun the assembly(but doesnt remember) in order to better get to one of the screws.

So my point is, if the CMP assembly was not lined up correctly would that throw a code? wouldnt the engine not run correclty? One thing I was thinking about doing is hooking a timing light up(for the spark timing) and then hooking a multimeter up to the CMP(for the injector pulse timing) to see if the spark and the CMP pulse go out at the same time. Only problem is I am not sure if they are meant to be synchronized. The engine runs good as far as I can tell and the Check engine light doesnt come on anymore. Hope this helps some of you guys who are having to replace their CMP Sensor. Oh yeah, the dealership said it would take 8 hours to replace this thing and they also said they would have to take the lower intake off as well as the valve covers. If it was for FORD using those philips head screws I could have had it done in an hour or so.