89 ranger 2.3 liter 4 cyl. timing or ?
 

Hello all,
I have a 89 ford range 2.3 liter 4 cyl. twin coil packs. Replaced the timing belt after a head refurbish. I lined the pointer on the camshaft with the marks on the timing belt cover and I lined the crankshaft groove with the TDC mark on the timing cover, as stated in the "Chilton" book. The spec. sticker under the hood states that ignition timing is 10 degrees before BTDC. I am wondering which setting is correct. The coil pack on the exhaust manifold side is firing but the intake side is not. I swapped the coil packs and they are both good. Any suggestions appreciated.


Thanks
Btooling

Welcome to FTE!

Are you getting a Check Engine Light?

Just a guess here, but one of the sides is there only for emission purposes and may fire only when the truck is up to normal operating temperature. Otherwise, maybe the wiring going to the coil might be messed up, I'd look at the plug since you've been in that area.

Its my understanding that the plug wires to a cylinder "one from each coil pack" are to fire at about the same time. I have checked the wire plug ends and all look good. I installed new plug wires also. At this point the truck wont even begin to hit. So running it is out of the question.

Thanks for the input

How about the ignition module? Have you looked at that?

Ignition module
 

I removed the DMIS or whatever the Letters are, the module that is mounted near the alternator. The module with the heat conducting compound on the back of it. I was told that a bad one usually has a burned look to the back of it. Mine was like new. I havent done the testing with the digital volt meter, was hoping someone new the answer and would eliminate the need for the Deep testing, which I will start tonight. LOL Not lazy, Just need the truck running.

Thanks again

The drivers side plugs do not fire during engine start. This is normal.
For cam timing:
The keyway for the Woodruff key that holds the crankshaft pulley in place should be straight up. This will position the number one cylinder close enough to top dead center for timing purposes.
Align the triangle mark on one of the camshaft teeth with the center mark of the three marks on the rear timing cover.
The crankshaft position sensor is driven by the auxilary shaft and must be timed correctly, or the engine will not start. I think this is your problem. The sensor is in the distributor hole. I can't remember if the auxilary shaft has a timing mark or not, but it will be a diamond on one of the teeth, and will line up with a mark on the top side of the auxilary sprocket again on the rear timing cover. If the sensor has been removed, you will need a special tool to set it correctly. Good luck. jd

Thanks Jimdandy,
Just come from the shop and I tried the 10 degrees BTDC to no avail. I am however getting a good spark on the exhaust side, My aux. shaft does have a white streak of paint on the sprocket I have not seen a mark on the plastic timing cover but will look tommorrow. Your info on the spark help greatly though and I will retime and start looking into the fuel system for insuffecient fuel problems. shewwww at least a place to start from now.

your info is a God Send!!!!!!

Btooling

There is some incorrect information in my post concerning the crank sensor. I was going from memory, and no longer have any info on that model. I will send you a PM with the name of someone who can help you. Sorry for the mix-up and inconvenience. jd

PM sent. jd

Still trying to find the aux sprocket timing specs. Thanks

Finally found my info. 1989 was the first year of DIS. The only thing the auxilary shaft does is drive the oil pump. There is no timing involved of the shaft. It can be placed anywhere on the belt. Just make sure the cam and crank are timed. There is no adjustment for spark timing either. The computer controls this. Again, I apologize for the mix-up. CRS is hell sometimes. jd

Thanks Jim
 

Jim thanks for your help, I know you went out of your way for a stranger and I appreciate it. Last night I got the timing set back to normal and started the fuel pump search. lol I checked the inertia switch and will check the relays tommorow night, before I "REMOVE THE BED OF THE TRUCK" to get to the fuel pump. lol thats a hoot. ok thanks again God bless you man!!!!

Btooling

Not a problem. Glad to help when I can. Does your fuel pump run when you first turn the key on? You will not have any voltage to the pump after the first couple of seconds of turning on the key. jd

You might try turning the key to on and let the pump run, then (while wearing eye protection) depress the schrader valve on the fuel rail, to see if you have fuel pressure. Also try spraying a bit of carb cleaner in the TB to see if it will fire an external fuel source, before going to the trouble of removing the bed! If you have any fuel pressure at all, and it fires an external fuel source, pull a connector off of one injector and check for a pulse signal. Just a couple things to check...

No, when I turn the key on I do not hear the fuel pump run at all. The truck has been sitting in a basement for a year and a half without running. I figure the gas may have laquered up the pump and made it stick. I turned off all noise makers and all I hear is the clicking of relays and such.

thanks

I still suggest you try purging at the schrader valve. Sometimes a pump can run almost completely silently, if you check for pressure then you'll know for sure. I'm not saying you're incorrect in your assumption, but fuel pumps aren't free, the bed doesn't take it's self off, I'd check anyway. Also, check for voltage at each pump when cycling, IE; hook a test light up and turn on the key, see if you're getting power or not.

Edit: I can't remember if '89 uses a booster pump, or has a single high pressure in-tank pump.