Best Cold-Air Intake Brand for 6.0?
 

What is the best cold-air intake for the 6.0 diesel?
I def. want something that will give me a little performance, as well as a nice quality sound. Just was curious to see some feedback and some stories on everyones experiences with their cold-air intakes! :)

Many here will tell you that the stock works perfect up until the 400HP mark and is the very best for engine protection. I have also read alot about how bad the K&N filters are for dusting. That's when they let small dirt and dust particals through that damage the turbo compressor vanes. I've been running a K&N on a Jobe Performance intake for 12000 miles and havve no issues as of yet. I just had the engine apart putting head studs in, so I looked the turbo over very carefully.

LOL--400hp ain't the limit. The stocker will flow as much air as the stock turbo can use and provide the best protection for your turbo/engine!!

Here u go . . .
 

Airraid is the way to go

anyon runnig the s&b filter setup?

afe stage 2 with pro guard is the best

If you want a REAL cold air aftermarket intake, you'd have to go for a sealed system like:
Banks $430 http://www.bankspower.com/newproducts-2-06ra.cfm that comes with an 8 layer oiled filter made by S&B.
or
Outlaw Power $200 (FTE only special) http://www.outlawpower.com/productdetail.php?sc=1474 You can get it with the NeverOil Filter or the traditional oiled cotton.

Volant is also a sealed system. However, I'd recommend Banks or Outlaw Power based on quality and high customer service level.

03POWERSTROKER,

Another vote for the AFE Stage II Mega system in PG7!!

Mark @ DPPI

Hard to believe someone will waste $200 on an intake that will net them nothing instead of doubling it and getting a SCT, exhaust, or gauges. On second thought it will trash the turbo if thats worth spending $200 on LOL. :-banghead

I was reading in "Diesel Builder" and they did a intake upgrade on a 6.0. They said " a problem with the stock unit is that it is designed to flow a certain amount, and the engineer at Ford decided what the amount would be." They were sayin if you upgrade your exhaust, add or chip, or add a new turbo you will find that the stock intake does not flow enough. They replace the stock intake with a S&B enclosed filter. It is a nice intake with a clear window to see when to change it. Did S&B throw the mag a bone to get them to do this article??? Probably, but I coudlnt see them straight up lying to us either.

Just remember... more air flow means less filtration... and we all know what happens when you have less filtration.

To make more power, you need more air and more fuel. If you only allow for more air... then you really end up with nothing!!!

Now... if you chip your truck and add larger exhaust and do other performance mods... then yes, the stock system may be restrictive... but many have posted here and shown that its only at or around the 3,000 RPM range that an aftermarket intake allows for more airlfow... and we all know that no one here drive at 3,000 RPM's for any amoutn of time... if ever (unless at WOT for a short period).

Here is what I would do if you want to spend money... buy these mods... (not in any specifc order)...

1) Stanadyne or Powerservice fuel additives (use all the time).

2) Coolant filter (Dieselsite.com brand)

3) Marinco AC/plug mod for block heater

4) 24" wiper blades (20" is stock)

5) Run synthetic motor oil and Racor oil filters - change every 5,000 miles

6) By-Pass oil filter system

7) Britebox headlight mod (high and low beams at the same time)


Now... these 7 mods... will actually gain you something.... but hey... it's America... go ahead and buy it!!!!

Of all the tests I've seen the only gains with an A/M filter were in the 3800+ RPM range. Do you run your vehicle at those RPM's often? I've seen/read lots of claims, but I've yet to see any proof. My SD dynoed 444/728 with a stock filter and a larger turbo and I had no problems---didn't even move the filter minder.

Waste your money if you like---I'm spendin mine on better mods and creature comforts!

OH--Not raggin on you Lax--just that those articles T me off when they make claims they can't back up just to steal your money. I'm just trying to keep people informed and give them better options

Not raggin at all... I just came across the acrticle and figured I would share with you. I personally am on a stock filter and will most likely stay that way. However, when it comes time to change the stock filter, you have to replace the entire unit. On the S&B and other quality filters you can just clean and oil them and you are ready to go again. That is not a bad feature.

Granted.....it's not....it's also not nearly as efficient. And......A turbo is about 2 grand if you dust it from lack of filtration which is, unfortunately, not uncommon with cotton gauze filters in a diesel.

03POWERSTROKER,

Here's what you get with a AFE Stage II MEGA in PG7. Quicker spool up, lower EGT's, some HP and TQ. Potential MPG increase when combined with exhaust too! For those that say the stock intake is good enough explain this away for me. When I changed my 1st stock filter element at 8000 miles (not the 30,000 miles Ford/Donaldson tell you it's good for) I got 2-3 PSI boost increase. When I changed that one at 6000 miles to an AFE Stage I (all they built at the time) I got an extra 1-2 PSI boost pressure. Plus my EGT's dropped, and because I got PG7 I have no dirt getting by. So now I have 90,000 miles and have not bought a filter since 14,000 miles, ones that cost 45-55.00 each I might add so I am saving costs and providing more clean air and get a nice rush sound when you hammer on it as a bonus. How can I get that increase in boost PSI if the stock filters last so long and flow so well. The stock filter is designed for the stock HP of the truck at best just like the OEM's have always done. The fact that you can make 400+ HP with it doesn't mean it's a "best" part to have it just means it worked around the lower flow and still made good HP.

Mark @ DPPI

Mark @ DPPI